Would you please recommend a brand/type of lead remover cloth? Thanks
Carbon or something else?
- Thread starter tribb
- Start date
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I forgot where I got mine - maybe Lyman?
He says about an inch at 100 yards
ThanksI am not a fan of bronze brushes at all. Unfortunately, I don't have the ability to take pictures with my good scope (it's a rigid, 17" Olympus I found at a swap meet for cheap because there was no light source... I cobbled together a Mini-Mag light and it works just fine). I have a cheapo scope but it's not as clear, but i made one pass down a relatively clean custom barrel w/bronze brush and could see fine scratches in the mostly mirror finish of the bore. I still use them in pistols that shoot lead bullets but they never see my rifles, even my AK & SKS just get nylon now.
I am also not a fan of bore snakes as they get totally filthy after the first couple of passes and now you're pulling a crud infested item thru your barrel. Generally powder residue isn't too bad but the stuff from primers and bits of carbon can be very bad for a good bore. At best you can wash them in a washing machine (do NOT let your wife or SO see this happen) after each use. Like patches, tgey should only go one way thru the bore.
I suppose that in most factory barrels you'll never notice a thing but I have some customs with hand lapped barrels and I'm not doing anything to jeopardise their finishes. The same goes for any type of scrubber pad (Scotch-Brite). I wouldn't even use the white ones, which have the finest grit of any of them! The airline I worked at used to use them (with a polish) to put a super brite finish on bare aluminum. I will admit to being a bit anal with my barrels but I have some that are great shooters and I don't want to do anything that might affect them adversely in any way!
Again, with todays available chemicals there is seldom, if ever, a need to "scrub" a barrel! Probably the worst thing I've ever seen for barrels was a stainless steel brush! Yikes! I don't believe anyone even makes them any more... which is a good thing!
So... Always use a bore guide (I've even made some for pistol barrels), use quality products, use lot's of patches going 1 way thru your barrel (I cut up paper towels for patches... the only thing that requires a cloth patch is JB pastes) and give your barrels the best possible chance of shooting their very best for you for as long as possible!
Cheers,
crkckr
PS. Go here for the Scotch-Brite color code:
HMG Paints Ltd
www.hmgpaint.com
Pictures should show it all 1&2 are with j B,3&4 are dry patches bore scope pictures after wipe out soaks an hour or so I used10-12 back and forth strokes for each patch!Need some help here . I am not familiar with carbon rings at all . This is in my friends rifle I was starting load development for hammer Hunter bullets and found this!!! Picture on the left is a photo of the display on the bore scope as all of the pictures are! Is the white fuzz y stuff reflection or spider webbs? (I don't know how to attach it to my android phone) I tried to show the throat area and what I thoughtwas the carbon ring with copper from the dummy round I made up! Yes it stuck in the barrel and tapped out easily! You can see the rough ring around the dummy bullet in the right picture.I believe the bullet may have pulled out of the case a bit when I ejected the round. The third picture is a close up of ( copper ? ) in the throat. Thanks for all your thoughts,comments and or advice .
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Need some help here . I am not familiar with carbon rings at all . This is in my friends rifle I was starting load development for hammer Hunter bullets and found this!!! Picture on the left is a photo of the display on the bore scope as all of the pictures are! Is the white fuzz y stuff reflection or spider webbs? (I don't know how to attach it to my android phone) I tried to show the throat area and what I thought
Thanks
jjmp
Well-Known Member
Tribb , great job so far your getting there , I'm old school and I use brass or bronze brushes they will not hurt any barrel,I'll always use a one piece cleaning rod longer then needed because not all my. barrels are same length,bore guide is a must ,Barnes CR/10 works fantastic just listen to what's printed on the bottle,lol and I flush with hoppies,#9 ,I've used JB enough to know it works , I wrapp a flannel cloth around my brass brush and tie it on with tight wraps of 8lbs mono fishing line then it stays put ,on the brush , one round Equals up and back and I do use Hoppies #9 to flush out the CR/10 Or the JB , your pics are great and it shows your fantastic progress, many a person should learn from this , but it's the horse Lead to water thing 
,Great posts and Job
,Great posts and JobThanksTribb , great job so far your getting there , I'm old school and I use brass or bronze brushes they will not hurt any barrel,I'll always use a one piece cleaning rod longer then needed because not all my. barrels are same length,bore guide is a must ,Barnes CR/10 works fantastic just listen to what's printed on the bottle,lol and I flush with hoppies,#9 ,I've used JB enough to know it works , I wrapp a flannel cloth around my brass brush and tie it on with tight wraps of 8lbs mono fishing line then it stays put ,on the brush , one round Equals up and back and I do use Hoppies #9 to flush out the CR/10 Or the JB , your pics are great and it shows your fantastic progress, many a person should learn from this , but it's the horse Lead to water thing
Thank you I was wondering if I needed more time in the barrel ! I didn't want to over do it. Preciate it
todays experiment
Same barrel I borescoped in post 44, only thing I did was run green scothbrite thru it. 1/4" wide, cut to half thickness, one wrap around an undersize plastic brush, dipped in clr for lube, 15 strokes.
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Same barrel I borescoped in post 44, only thing I did was run green scothbrite thru it. 1/4" wide, cut to half thickness, one wrap around an undersize plastic brush, dipped in clr for lube, 15 strokes.
