Can inside necks be TO clean?

OK all this lubing inside the necks of the cases. Does this in any way allow the bullets to move if they are in the magazine, especially in a big magnum? Also won't powder stick to some of the wet lubes as you drop powder?


Yes, reduce friction in the necks and bullets could move under recoil. Only you could determine if it's compatible with your rifle/load. I crimp my bullets with a Lee Factory Crimp Die for my AR15, after lubing the necks and seating bullets.

I load my long range 338 LAI singly for long range shots on game. I crimp the bear defense loads I store in my magazines. Survival is more important than 1/2 moa precision.

I don't lube 454 Casull or 458 Win Mag case necks.

Point being, there's always an exception to the rule.

Powder collecting on my lubed case necks is a non-issue. A guy could create such an issue if he set out on that mission.
 
Remember that the bullets is more or less rusting to the brass so I think an agent that is more of a liquid/wax would prevent electrolysis better than a powder. That's why I use Imperial wax on the necks, and have applied to some bullets, as well as using HBN.
Differing metals corrode when they're electrochemically dissimilar...the rate of corrosion is based on the difference in their anodic index...and the metal with the higher index is the one corroded. Copper and brass have very similar V's (given brass is 60-70% copper depending on alloy) so it's very slow to occur.
Benzotriazole and tolytriazole are copper corrosion inhibitors but I would apply it to the brass, not the copper as I'm not sure what effect it might have.
 
Would you have a preference between PTFE vs Graphite spray dry lubricant regarding electrolysis?


Most.competitive shooters load just before a match. Most.have found for.some reason it shoots better that way.

Could.be one of.the reasons

I don't load the till i am ready to shoot them for the same reason
 
Some load long then seat to correct length when they are about to use them. Hard to say when if hunting.
 
I need/want to be able to load ammo for months without any surprises. I've thought about loading long then re-seating but I'd like to not have to worry about it.
 
I need/want to be able to load ammo for months without any surprises. I've thought about loading long then re-seating but I'd like to not have to worry about it.

Exactly, but unfortunately I can't test to see if anything work unless it sits for months, and even then it's only some that bind. I'm just throwing everything at it at once including swabbing the case necks with HBN alcohol, bullets tumbled in HBN, waxing the case necks and bullets. I only do this on 2 long range rifles ammunition, the others aren't that critical.
If you are really going nuts about it you could rest your ammunition on a metal that has a higher potential to react, drawing it away from the copper/brass interface. Similar to the sacrificial anode in a water heater, it gets eaten instead of the metal tank. That's more than I'm willing to put into it though.
 
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