Can inside necks be TO clean?

[DartonJager]

Am considering investing in a SS pin tumbler because except for the SS pins I can get the rest of the components for free. But I have read multiple postings here and other places claiming SS pins clean and remove the carbon 100% from the inside of the neck and that can affect your neck tension consistentcy and have an ill effect on your accuracy.

I have been reloading for at least 30 years and still have and use the same Lyman vibraiting brass cleaner using plane corn cobb treated with polish and have enjoyed great results. I was considering trying the SS pin wet cleaning to eliminate having to clean primer pockets, but if I am better off having some left over carbon on the inside of my case necks VS none please by all means someone tell me so before I invest and be regretful. My recent purchases of 2 NIB JM stamped Marlin 336C's are both MOA shooters with tumbled brass and would hate to see that accuracy suffer.

Thanks,
DJ/Art.

 

[Barrelnut]

I use an ultrasonic cleaner and it removes all carbon from the necks also. I use Redding Imperial Dry Neck Lube. I just dip the tail of the bullet in it before seating. Sometimes I dip a neck brush in it and brush the inside of the necks before seating. Forester has a dry mica powder that seems to work well also. I sometimes even apply dry lubes with a Qtip.

 

[Pdvdh]

Re: Can inside necks be TOO clean?

Too clean of case necks, without lubing the case neck prior to seating bullets will cause much different seating forces to seat the bullets, compared to case necks that aren't cleaned down to the bare, raw brass.

I ultrasonic clean my brass also. I use Hornady Unique case resizing wax on Q-tips to lube the case necks just prior to priming and powder charging. It improves the consistency of the friction between the case neck and the bullet. RCBS Imperial case resizing wax is also a very good product. The Hornady is cheaper, easier to apply, and easier to remove any excess. Do this before charging the casings with powder.

If you lube after cleaning, then it's not possible to get them too clean, unless you're physically removing the brass in the process - resulting in thinner and thinner case necks over time - eventually destroying the cases.

I've also reloaded fired brass without any cleaning of the case necks. The carbon residue is a friction reducer. But I currently ultrasonic clean and lube with one of the wax products. It's a two-step process. Waxed Q-tip to apply. Unwaxed Q-tip to remove excess. One clean Q-tip is good for wax removal on 25-50 waxed case necks. Less messy than the graphite, powered products, and provides more consistent friction reduction, IMO. Also helps prevent bullets from bonding to the case necks over time, better than powdered products, because the wax results in 100% coverage 100% of the time.

 

[bigedp51]

Griphite powder is nothing more than finely ground carbon and what is removed from inside the case neck. So after wet tumbling with stainless steel media simply dip your cases in Imperial dry neck lube and re-coat the case necks with carbon.


Imperial Dry Neck Lube 1 oz Powder

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/319390/imperial-dry-neck-lube-1-oz-powder

 

[DartonJager]

Griphite powder is nothing more than finely ground carbon and what is removed from inside the case neck. So after wet tumbling with stainless steel media simply dip your cases in Imperial dry neck lube and re-coat the case necks with carbon.


Imperial Dry Neck Lube 1 oz Powder

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/319390/imperial-dry-neck-lube-1-oz-powder

Will give I.D.N.L. a try.
Thanks.

 

[DartonJager]

I have a question for those of you suggesting I try Imperial carbon case neck lube to lube the inside of my case necks. Where I work we use graphite as a lubricant for our high speed equipment and I also have access to BB sized SST ball bearings, would combining the two in a small plastic jar accomplish the same lubrication as would the Redding Imperial lube?

This way I wont have to wait a week or more to do my reloading, enabling me to be able to shoot this coming weekend.

Thanks,
DJ/Art.

 

[Dosh]

DJ, that's a good idea, but the BB size bearings may be a bit large. Perhaps cut open a #6 shot shell or two so you'll have more coating coverage inside the neck or on the bullet base.

 

[DartonJager]

DJ, that's a good idea, but the BB size bearings may be a bit large. Perhaps cut open a #6 shot shell or two so you'll have more coating coverage inside the neck or on the bullet base.

Thanks I've dozens and dozens of 12 ga #6 & #7-1/2 shot shells. Will do.

 

[tbrice23]

I sonic clean my cases.
For years I've been using mica in the Imperial ceramic beads . Just this week I have been using Imperial graphite. I dip the case neck and wipe off the outside with a cloth. The difference is notable. Seating is more consistent and my ES has improved .

The real question for me, will it prevent bonding of bullets to brass when stored over time????
I've heard guys say it it doesn't and have gone to HBN coating (whis is so much work I don't even want to think about it), but I think the graphite must prevent some bonding.

 

[jimbires]

I use powder graphite too . I had my local auto parts store get this for me . it's probably two lifetime supplies , and it cost me about $10 if I remember right .
AGS brand part # MZ-21
http://www.opticatonline.com/part/american-grease-stick-ags-mz-21-graphite-lubricant

 

[tbrice23]

I use powder graphite too . I had my local auto parts store get this for me . it's probably two lifetime supplies , and it cost me about $10 if I remember right .
AGS brand part # MZ-21
http://www.opticatonline.com/part/american-grease-stick-ags-mz-21-graphite-lubricant

Thanks for the link. When I'm out I'll order that.

 

[DartonJager]

Glad you said so concerning the BB size, will use some #6 bird shot from my upland game loads.

Again,
Thanks.

 

[Mikecr]

Wetting your brass, and left with replacing the perfect carbon layer in necks.
It seems a goal meant for no meaning..

 

[rcoody]

I have a question for those of you suggesting I try Imperial carbon case neck lube to lube the inside of my case necks. Where I work we use graphite as a lubricant for our high speed equipment and I also have access to BB sized SST ball bearings, would combining the two in a small plastic jar accomplish the same lubrication as would the Redding Imperial lube?

This way I wont have to wait a week or more to do my reloading, enabling me to be able to shoot this coming weekend.

Thanks,
DJ/Art.

Here it is ready to go. Works great.


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/892537/imperial-dry-neck-lube-application-media-1-oz