CA Ridgeline vs Tikka T3x

Tikkas are so easy to swap parts on. Turn it into a 7saum or 300 Saum and you'll have more mag length than you'll ever need.


And I agree. A 300wm in a tikka is a terrible combination. I HATED mine.
 
Ucsdryder said:
Tikkas are so easy to swap parts on. Turn it into a 7saum or 300 Saum and you'll have more mag length than you'll ever need.


And I agree. A 300wm in a tikka is a terrible combination. I HATED mine.
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And I agree. A 300wm in a tikka is a terrible combination. I HATED mine.
Are you referring to all Tikka rifles or just the T3X ?
 
My post wasn't in any way intended to bash Tikkas. The quality you get for that price range is second to none. Most of the ones that I have seen are shooters. It's just that the T3x in 300wm is a beast to handle. The rifle is probably accurate, it's just hard to get it out of it….
 
Brasshole said:
I bought a new Tikka T3x in 300 WM last year before an elk trip. Very disappointed. I have terrific glass on the rifle and even from a bench vise, I cant get anywhere near Sub MOA. I am a precision reloader and had no idea the Tikka's were so magazine limited in terms of COAL/CBTO. After alot of measurements, I am working with more than .2" jump with loads that are max length for the magazine. Thats a big number! I swapped out the bottom metal with Red Snake Tactical (great product and Red is a great American) but that still only got me slightly longer rounds and then I had to deal with Tikka feed issues. I see so many folks singing Tikka praises and can only assume they dont reload because you cant get anything in them greater than 3.35". I am looking at a Christensen Arms Ridgeline. Seems to have everything I want in terms of weight, stock quality, trigger pull, and range of loading options. Anyone out there make a transition from Tikka to CA and if so, are you happy?
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I used a file and removed material the front inside of my tikka magazine for longer oal reloads.
 
Have had great accuracy out of 4 different calibers of Tikka T3X including 300 Win Mag. All have very smooth actions and not any issues at all. Do agree the 300 is rough on the shoulder. Have had 3 CAs, including a Ridgeline, all have given me problems feeding, can't stretch out the seating depth at all. Also had issues with the bolt hanging up on the Ridgeline. i much prefer the Tikkas.
 
Brasshole said:
I bought a new Tikka T3x in 300 WM last year before an elk trip. Very disappointed. I have terrific glass on the rifle and even from a bench vise, I cant get anywhere near Sub MOA. I am a precision reloader and had no idea the Tikka's were so magazine limited in terms of COAL/CBTO. After alot of measurements, I am working with more than .2" jump with loads that are max length for the magazine. Thats a big number! I swapped out the bottom metal with Red Snake Tactical (great product and Red is a great American) but that still only got me slightly longer rounds and then I had to deal with Tikka feed issues. I see so many folks singing Tikka praises and can only assume they dont reload because you cant get anything in them greater than 3.35". I am looking at a Christensen Arms Ridgeline. Seems to have everything I want in terms of weight, stock quality, trigger pull, and range of loading options. Anyone out there make a transition from Tikka to CA and if so, are you happy?
Click to expand...
I have a couple of TIKKA's and before you start lamenting how bad they shoot with your reloads try shooting some Sig Sauer factory loads and see if your problem is solved. My Tikka 270 using the factory recommended Sig Sauer 140 gr ammo shot way less than 1 MOA right out of the box even without breaking in the barrel. My Tikka 30-06 which was bought used from a guy that said it didn't shoot fired a 5 shot cloverleaf using Sig Sauer 165 gr ammo. I also have been able to duplicate this performance with precision handloads duplicating the Sig Sauer as much as possible. On yet another note, you might try a different scope. Scopes are not failproof and have has some of my shooting friends have to replace their scopes when they quit tracking properly or had the reticle move after each shot. Even terrific but unnamed glass can fail.
 
Ucsdryder said:
I had a tikka t3 in 300wm. Only one I've had. I loved the weight, the smoothness of the action but the recoil was absurd.
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The solution is to simply have a muzzle brake installed if it doesn't already have one. Some of the older Tikka's had plain barrels, the newer high recoil ones usually have muzzle brakes installed from the factory. I don't have a Tikka 300 WM, mine it a Browning AB3. With a muzzle brake installed it now kicks less than my .270. Refer to my post here on recoil management. Part 3 and the final installment will be posted in the near future.
 
Teri Anne said:
The solution is to simply have a muzzle brake installed if it doesn't already have one. Some of the older Tikka's had plain barrels, the newer high recoil ones usually have muzzle brakes installed from the factory. I don't have a Tikka 300 WM, mine it a Browning AB3. With a muzzle brake installed it now kicks less than my .270. Refer to my post here on recoil management. Part 3 and the final installment will be posted in the near future.
Click to expand...
I personally would never put a muzzle brake on a hunting rifle. If a 340" bull or a 200" mule deer pops up at 50 yards in thick timber, I know there's zero chance I pass on that shot because my plugs aren't in.
 

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