Baker Alvin
Well-Known Member
Dillion 550, 1100 or 1050 no questions. Buy once cry once. I bought 2 one for large primer and one for small primer. Then only head changes are needed. Used ones are around, watch on here and other markets.
Thanks Hydra6, That makes sense and I don't need any more speed then that. Shoot! I'm retiring from farming after this year and might have all the time in the world.On the Dillon 550. there is a "star" above the shell plate. You pull the handle down then back up and 4 operations take place (4 positions) then you take your thumb and rotate the "star" such that the cases are rotated one position forward. Repeat process. I am sure there are YouTube videos.
It is the way the 550 has always been. It eliminates a lot of linkages, adjustments, etc. It is slower (how fast do you need to go?). It facilitates using multiple calibers on one press as fewer things to adjust.
Those that need more speed and do not like the manual index move to the Dillon 750 (previously 650) or even the 1000 series (commercial or very high volume).
This sounds like the type of perfromance I am chasing as well. Can you share anymore about the 308 @ 1400?? I am struggling with finding the right bullet/powder combo as well as some "tricks of the trade". I am fairly new to reloading this cartridge for LRPS but now that I am retired, I have the time to dedicate to developing quality reloads for this new Custom Build.I would use the Dillion 550, for accurate progressive loader for rifle ...it is what I use. And I have both 2 Hornadys and 2 Dillions, but for serious work the Dillion, Example 9mm pistol in Hornady press, with a Dillion powder measure, cause Dillon has a good pistol powder measure and a bad rifle powder measure.
The 308 or Creedmoor, Sized off the progressive on a single stage press, and cleaned . Run through the Dillion 550 press with a Hornaday powder measure, the old ones were better than the new ones...Shot 17,000 match grade cartridges loaded on a Dillon out to 1400 yds with 308, and Varget. Also if in tbe same bolt gun just neck size the case usually for 3 times then in the Dillion skip the FL resize. I just buff the carbon off the necks and shoulder with a silicon carbide fine grey deburring wheel...no further cleaning. Run them over a chronograph they will have single digit S/D, and be accurate, enough to hit eggs at 1000 yds...no need to weigh the power out for every change down to the exact grain, but check about 1 in 20, or 30, off the press. Add powder, pound on the measure container to settle it, with your hand, throw and discard the first two and check the third , should be on. Rhythm is the key, every stroke and index preformed the same.
No need clean primer pockets or brass, no annealing. Lapua Brass load and shoot, up to 40 times before replacing, with minimal sizing. Always trim back the brass, as the case grows longer, no need for meticulously measuring, and weighing everything...you already checked at the beginning. Time to load, get it done. Field time is more important, trigger time, and you observing conditions, nature, all natural, and a mind set to control the shot. All you need is a range finder, your mat, a bag of reloaded, no do shiny cartridges, with bullets that your barrel loves. Quit messing around changing the load, to the next new bullet or powder, your barrel has spoken, this one is good. Run the **** out of it, hot or cold, wind, rain, or snow, 8000 rds per barrel before changing barrels, with 308 Win...same load. Don't concern your self with barrel temperature, cleaning,...you only quit when the hot barrel heat waves obscured the target...especially when your on a pop can 1000 yds. ..even to 1400 yds. If you can see it, you can hit it...mind set...always expect to hit the target, no matter how small or how far away...you can do that with cartridges loaded on a progressive Dillion 550...I'm not the only one.
I've seen many excellent comments from experienced reloaders in this thread. Has anyone ever used the Lee Progressive Press??I'm wanting to speed up my reloading time but still want competition accuracy. I will be reloading 22 and 6.5 creedmoor with it. I have narrowed it down to Dillon 550 or Hornady Lock and load AP. Would like to hear your opinion and why you like it.
I really recommend the Dillon XL750 if you want the best of all worlds with a great range of calibers to be able to reload. You can do precision work on it just fine if you follow tips and tricks that can be found on YouTube. Highboy76 is a great one to watch. He used to run Hornady and switched to dillon.I'm wanting to speed up my reloading time but still want competition accuracy. I will be reloading 22 and 6.5 creedmoor with it. I have narrowed it down to Dillon 550 or Hornady Lock and load AP. Would like to hear your opinion and why you like it.
I wore out three Lee 1000s (older Lee progressive) back when I was a very high volume pistol shooter - one in 9mm, one in 38 Special, and one in 45. They work but they are made of lightweight metals and will wear out - the actual frame and other structural pieces will wear out. Then you need to buy another press as Lee definitely will not warranty that level of wear. But I am talking tens of thousands of rounds of loaded ammo. If you are not a high volume loader they work.I've seen many excellent comments from experienced reloaders in this thread. Has anyone ever used the Lee Progressive Press??
It's not instant success, and depends on the rifle its twist rate, bullets, and powders available...that your barrel likes, tested, for group size and chronographed for low single digit standard deviations. For the first barrels many yrs ago that was Varget powder, Lapua brass, Lapua 155 Scenar bullets, Fed 210M primers, 12 twist barrels, 26 to 27 inches varmint profile. Only a slight variation in powder charge between barrels, and new chambers, everything consistently the same, including barrel twist rates. Start short like 500 yds, and push the distance with a practice schedule, I did 85 rds no muzzle brake on 308, every week, to 2 times a week, year round, any weather, shooting from the prone, no benches. Shoot until evething under 800 yds is no challenge, extend the range past 1000 yds to 1400 yds...shoot thousands of rds alternating between 1000yds and 1400yds. 1000 yds becomes fairly easy, concentrate on the longer distances. I belonged to the Varmint Hunters club and this was for shooting squirrels at 500 to over 1000 yds. I used Precision Shooting at 1000 yds and USMC scout sniper manual to put together a system that worked for me. Buy bullets and powder in bulk for discounts over 3000 bullets at a time...it costs a lot of money and time...no easy solutions, with a dedicated practice schedule, whether ya feel like it or not. Commitment...know the area you hunt, learn and study how the wind moves through the mountains and canyons, lazer range find land marks, so you know the distances, without it...and can engage any target at distance in short order, confidence of a hit, without the electronic gagets...and practice those shots.This sounds like the type of perfromance I am chasing as well. Can you share anymore about the 308 @ 1400?? I am struggling with finding the right bullet/powder combo as well as some "tricks of the trade". I am fairly new to reloading this cartridge for LRPS but now that I am retired, I have the time to dedicate to developing quality reloads for this new Custom Build.
Thank you for some really good info.Dillon's customer service is the standard by which any manufacturer of anything should be measured. Not knocking Hornady's or anyone else's svc.
Handle some presses. Find a friend or dealer with some. Scheels has em out to touch at some locations. Cabelas too. Use em to figure out what you like or what puts you off.
I have had a dillon sdb. Good little machine and best for me left set up for one load. I have a 550, a 650 and an 1100. Each does its thing. I adore the 550. I load everything from 223 case head through 45/70 on it, including rimmed revolver rounds from 35 to 50. I avoid forming brass on it. Several different 308s have their own toolhead and dies. Ditto the 38spl, 357 mag and 357 max. 550 is versatile.
The 650 does autoindex, casefeed but manual bullet feed. It is smooth and fast.
The 1100 is more machine than most need. It swages pockets, case and bullet feeds. I prep 223 on it with a power trimmer and also load 223 and 9. It is fast but tiring. Lots of moving parts. Things can go awry and you may foul up several cases or rounds before you catch it. Can be a real PITA.
I have reloaded for 37 years. Started on a hornady 007. I use turrets, progressives, single stages, herters two-ram, redding, rcbs, lyman, forster and dillons currently. Each has its thing for me. Try some and figure out what is intuitive or comfortable, what fits your needs. Like buying a rifle, handgun or suppressor. Dont blindly plunk down hard earned cash on something you may hate or regret.
Firstand foremost thank you for taking the time to provide this excellent seties of Best Practices. It refutes some of the accepted notions at our gun club about 30 cal bullets< 175 grns not beeing stable enough to reach or much less exceed the 1 K mark. My new Custom Model 700 has a Krieger Barrel with a heavy contour and shoots factory 168 SMK's like a dream; however, I have just begun my journey in the aggravating world of reloading so I am anxious to dispel those "experts".It's not instant success, and depends on the rifle its twist rate, bullets, and powders available...that your barrel likes, tested, for group size and chronographed for low single digit standard deviations. For the first barrels many yrs ago that was Varget powder, Lapua brass, Lapua 155 Scenar bullets, Fed 210M primers, 12 twist barrels, 26 to 27 inches varmint profile. Only a slight variation in powder charge between barrels, and new chambers, everything consistently the same, including barrel twist rates. Start short like 500 yds, and push the distance with a practice schedule, I did 85 rds no muzzle brake on 308, every week, to 2 times a week, year round, any weather, shooting from the prone, no benches. Shoot until evething under 800 yds is no challenge, extend the range past 1000 yds to 1400 yds...shoot thousands of rds alternating between 1000yds and 1400yds. 1000 yds becomes fairly easy, concentrate on the longer distances. I belonged to the Varmint Hunters club and this was for shooting squirrels at 500 to over 1000 yds. I used Precision Shooting at 1000 yds and USMC scout sniper manual to put together a system that worked for me. Buy bullets and powder in bulk for discounts over 3000 bullets at a time...it costs a lot of money and time...no easy solutions, with a dedicated practice schedule, whether ya feel like it or not. Commitment...know the area you hunt, learn and study how the wind moves through the mountains and canyons, lazer range find land marks, so you know the distances, without it...and can engage any target at distance in short order, confidence of a hit, without the electronic gagets...and practice those shots.
Today I shoot a variety of cartridges and my 308s have 8 and 9 twist bullets to shoot 200 gr to 230 gr high BC accurately, with high velocities with new powders. Long action, 30" barrel heavy palma in an aluminum chasis, running 200 gr SMK .715 BC at 2856 fps as a standard load...or 2950 fps with hybrid cases. And 225 ELDM at 2675 fps, or 230 Atips or SMK at 2620 fps. In Lapua brass.