Burris Signature Rings and Braked 338 RUM?

royinidaho

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What are the odds of success when using Burris Signature rings (inserts) on a 1" scope which is on a braked 338 RUM shooting 300s @ 2700+?

Regular smooth inside rings didn't cut it.

Grooved rings did not slip in the slightest when 'really' hawg'd down (nearly twisted the scope wrench off). Ring marks were quite impressive.:rolleyes:

What I'm after is the 20 MOA cant.
 
I've had Burris Signature Rings on my braked 300 wm for 3 years. They have the best scope holding power I have ever witnessed without a single mark on my scope. I get 20 moa using the -20 insert (the thinner one) in the bottom of the front ring and the +20 insert (the thicker one) in the top half of the front ring. I use the "O" inserts for the back ring. I blue locktite base and ring screws at 18 in/lbs.
 
I've had Burris Signature Rings on my braked 300 wm for 3 years. They have the best scope holding power I have ever witnessed without a single mark on my scope. I get 20 moa using the -20 insert (the thinner one) in the bottom of the front ring and the +20 insert (the thicker one) in the top half of the front ring. I use the "O" inserts for the back ring. I blue locktite base and ring screws at 18 in/lbs.

Good to know! Thanks.

Question: What if I put a -10 on the bottom front ring and a +10 on the bottom rear ring with 0s on the top of both rings?

It may be better to do as you did for proper fit and gripping power. Just thinkin' out loud, as I have the 10s on hand but no 20s.

That's what I did on my 270 AM but never really noticed as the thing shoots flat enough that 0 MOA cant is sufficient.
 
Good to know! Thanks.

Question: What if I put a -10 on the bottom front ring and a +10 on the bottom rear ring with 0s on the top of both rings?

With the Burris rings, if you put a +10 on the bottom, you need to put the -10 on the top. This will maintain the proper diameter to fit the scope.
 
Roy

Give Josh a call at Burris. He is very helpful. I have a Model 70 Coyote Lite ( man. date 2005 that should tell you a lot, if you know what went on at Winchester.) Anyway i had to do some mix and match to get things to line up.
 
Good to know! Thanks.

Question: What if I put a -10 on the bottom front ring and a +10 on the bottom rear ring with 0s on the top of both rings?

It may be better to do as you did for proper fit and gripping power. Just thinkin' out loud, as I have the 10s on hand but no 20s.

That's what I did on my 270 AM but never really noticed as the thing shoots flat enough that 0 MOA cant is sufficient.

Roy, I have used them a lot, but never on a 338.

I used then for many years on a none braked 300 RUM sport using the 1" Grand Slam Weaver Scope and also on a braked 300 Rem. Sendero. Also have used them on braked Rem. Sendero using 30mm ring dia. on my NF.

I would not hesitate to recommend them and use them with confidence.

Went on a Elk hunting trip from West Nevada to West Colorado; we did some mighty rough 4wheeling and when we got back home (Nevada) my zero was dead-on!

Now
Question: What if I put a -10 on the bottom front ring and a +10 on the bottom rear ring with 0s on the top of both rings?

I have never done that. The way I see it you have the maintain the proper ring opening diameter for the right grip. If you off-set -.010 on the bottom then to maintain the right dia. you have to use +0.010 on the top; if you use zero, which means the ring internal diameter would be 0.010 bigger they might not give you the awesome grip they normally provide.

I have used them like:

In the Front: -0.020 on bottom and +0.020 on top.
In the Rear: +0.010 on bottom and -0.010 on top.
For A Grand Total of 0.030.

In the Front: -0.020 on bottom and +0.020 on top.
In the Rear: 0.000 on bottom and 0.000 on top.
For A Grand Total of 0.020.

You could do:
In the Front: -0.010 on bottom and +0.010 on top.
In the Rear: +0.010 on bottom and -0.010 on top.
For A Grand Total of 0.020

But never mixing them like you propose.

Something I really like about them, they will rotate properly to accommodate
themselves without leaving any marks and providing mighty awesome grip.

Man! I could become their sales person... :D

What ever you do, wish you the best!
 
Last edited:
What I did was a -10 on the bottom front, +10 top front and +10 bottom rear, -10 top rear for what I figure to be 20 MOA cant.

20 is all that I needed or had room for.

Thanks for the assistance!!!!

Now I'm a total clicker on both rifles. It feels pretty good.

The whole switch gives great since I learned the ol' Weaver Tactical's clicks are spot on.:)
 
Burris Signature rings with the inserts grip 40% stronger than standard rings. You can also move your point of impact left or right along with up and down if needed. No more lapping or shimming rings. Another big plus is when you remove your scope there will not be the usual scuff marks from the rings.

They are all I use to hold my good scopes, and they will be what I use when I get my Viper PST. I got a pair holding a Vortex scope on an 8lb 5oz 300 Ultra Mag. That is total weight including the scope and the rifle has NO brake. I shoot 200gr bullets at 3000 fps. No scope movement; not even when I get 'scoped'.


Try them. You will like them.
 
The voting appears 100% in the affirmative!

I've got'em installed and ready to go.

Now I can click only and not MIL hold over to 5 mils then click. Clicks are good for way farther than this rifle pilot should be able to shoot.:)

Thanks
 
I also agree that they hold on to a scope very very well. Been running them on a 375 CT for over 2 years and they are still exactly in the same place. I dont think you have to worry about recoil with these rings.
 
I use the Signature (insert) rings on my 338 RUM while using all bullet weights including the 300 SMK's. No problem with holding the glossy Leupold scope or the matte finished Kahles that have been on the rifle.
 
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