I've been messing around with this stuff a lot lately. Here's what I've gathered in no particular order.
There are micro die adjusters that make it very easy to move the height of a standard die in tiny increments. It won't work in a Forster press, though. Micro Die Adjusters - PMA Tool
I bought a couple sizing die blanks from Newlon Precision which I made into shoulder bump dies with my finish reamers. According to Newlon, the way to properly set up a sizing die is to have a little camover. Meaning, the ram should touch the bottom of the die and you should feel some resistance when you further move the handle and feel the "camover". This is the only easily repeatable method. However, this relies on your die to be set perfectly for your chamber. You may need to shorten the die by removing metal from the bottom using a lathe if you need to bump more or use the Redding competition shellholders to customize it. If you're getting too much sizing you'd need to deepen the die which really can't easily be done. You'd have to raise your die and have no camover and do it by feel.
When cutting the Newlon die for use with a .125" height shellholder you use the go-gauge used to cut the chamber. The base of the gauge should stick out .129" since most cases will spring back .002". When the die is set with the proper camover it should give you a .002" shoulder bump. Of course, you can shorten it to .128" or whatever you want to get the amount of bump you want.
My takeaway from making those dies and talking with Newlon is that you need to take a close look at your off-the-shelf die and make the modifications to have a repeatable setup. You can, of course, go by feel if your die requires no camover to bump the shoulders correctly but "feel" usually isn't as repeatable as camover.
There are micro die adjusters that make it very easy to move the height of a standard die in tiny increments. It won't work in a Forster press, though. Micro Die Adjusters - PMA Tool
I bought a couple sizing die blanks from Newlon Precision which I made into shoulder bump dies with my finish reamers. According to Newlon, the way to properly set up a sizing die is to have a little camover. Meaning, the ram should touch the bottom of the die and you should feel some resistance when you further move the handle and feel the "camover". This is the only easily repeatable method. However, this relies on your die to be set perfectly for your chamber. You may need to shorten the die by removing metal from the bottom using a lathe if you need to bump more or use the Redding competition shellholders to customize it. If you're getting too much sizing you'd need to deepen the die which really can't easily be done. You'd have to raise your die and have no camover and do it by feel.
When cutting the Newlon die for use with a .125" height shellholder you use the go-gauge used to cut the chamber. The base of the gauge should stick out .129" since most cases will spring back .002". When the die is set with the proper camover it should give you a .002" shoulder bump. Of course, you can shorten it to .128" or whatever you want to get the amount of bump you want.
My takeaway from making those dies and talking with Newlon is that you need to take a close look at your off-the-shelf die and make the modifications to have a repeatable setup. You can, of course, go by feel if your die requires no camover to bump the shoulders correctly but "feel" usually isn't as repeatable as camover.