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Bullet choice for my Sako a7 range 7mm Rem Mag

I will give it a try what are your thoughts on the 168g berger classic hunter for deer/elk

I have no experience with the Classic Hunters on game, but have no doubts they will perform well. I shoot the 140 VLD Hunting bullet out of my 6.5 Creedmoor. Last year I dropped 2 antelope and 1 deer right where they were standing. Deer was only at 200 yards, one antelope at 410 and one antelope at 420.

I am anxious to try these 145 LRX on game. I have heard nothing but great things about Barnes Bullets performance on game and I like the idea of an all copper bullet if it does perform. I went with the Barnes because they don't mind being seated deep and my 7 SAUM is built off a Model 7 action, which doesn't allow me to seat the bullets long and still magazine feed.
 
So I just got back from the desert shooting with the owner of the Sako A7 LR I did the load work up fpr using the 168 HVLD. He has never shot over 300 yards, but was putting rounds within 1-2" of POA at 545 and 751.

I think he is good to go for his upcoming deer hunt.
 
I like the 160gr Nosler Accu-bond for my 7mm mag.

I have killed a bear at 40 yds with the bullet holding together and penetrating the entire length of the bear.

I have killed a handfull of elk with no problems with blow-up or pencilling.

I have killed a handful of Western Montana whitetail deer between 500 and 899 yards with good one shot kills and good bullet performance at all ranges. Even when I know the impact speed was below recommended minimum velocity, the bullet opened up and did its job.

I shoot a Ruger #1 SS and this rifle just shoots this bullet way too well to change.
 
I shoot a Ruger #1 SS and this rifle just shoots this bullet way too well to change.

Did you do anything to make sure your barrel is freefloated on your #1?
Just asking because I have a Ruger #3 and ended up putting a spacer between the hanger and barrel to stiffen the stock up.
 
Canhunter35,

I know that the forearm on my #1 is not free floating. I have seen #3s but I have not had the chance to handle or shoot a #3 but it appears the basics are the same.

The only thing I do with my #1 is to torque the forearm to the same value every time I remove it for cleaning.

I don't remember the torque value but it is a number I chose, not an industry standard. When I get home I will look up the number and pass it on if you think it will help.

I would love to have a #3 but they are few and far between around here.
 
I had that same exact rifle. I was really shocked at how well the HSM factory ammo shot with a168 Berger VLD. I took that seating depth +/- .080 off the lands. Filed the mag out a little bit and it shot awesome. Buddy has the same rifle and my load shot just as good in his gun. We used N 560 66 or 67 grains can't remember. I know it hit a flat powder node at 2930-2940 FPS.
 
Canhunter35,

I know that the forearm on my #1 is not free floating. I have seen #3s but I have not had the chance to handle or shoot a #3 but it appears the basics are the same.

The only thing I do with my #1 is to torque the forearm to the same value every time I remove it for cleaning.

I don't remember the torque value but it is a number I chose, not an industry standard. When I get home I will look up the number and pass it on if you think it will help.

I would love to have a #3 but they are few and far between around here.

I think essentially it amounts to the same. I have a spacer applying a pressure point on the hanger which should remain consistent, with a freefloated forestock. Thanks though, I was wondering if there was another way of doing of it.

Yeah, I've actually never seen another #3. This ones a custom job my dad had done in 240 wby. The smith who did it did a first rate job on the wood work.
I put the spacer in and it seemed to really help with vertical poi shift
 
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