Building a Custom hunting rifle 300 win input

[FEENIX]

If you own and shoot enough 700's sooner or later you will along with trigger and safety problems if you don't take care of them ahead of time.

I don't see why it bothers you for us to warn the guy about the weak points in the system so he can address them. It will never be as easy in the future, cheap, or practical to do so as it is now.

It's not bashing on Remington, it's addressing the reality of what the action is and it's weak points. That they exist is well documented and why we have a thriving industry providing the "fixes".

lightbulbVery well said!lightbulb

 

[N2TRKYS]

If you own and shoot enough 700's sooner or later you will along with trigger and safety problems if you don't take care of them ahead of time.

I don't see why it bothers you for us to warn the guy about the weak points in the system so he can address them. It will never be as easy in the future, cheap, or practical to do so as it is now.

It's not bashing on Remington, it's addressing the reality of what the action is and it's weak points. That they exist is well documented and why we have a thriving industry providing the "fixes".

Haha. Ok.

 

[Bronc1]

If you own and shoot enough 700's sooner or later you will along with trigger and safety problems if you don't take care of them ahead of time.

I don't see why it bothers you for us to warn the guy about the weak points in the system so he can address them. It will never be as easy in the future, cheap, or practical to do so as it is now.

It's not bashing on Remington, it's addressing the reality of what the action is and it's weak points. That they exist is well documented and why we have a thriving industry providing the "fixes".

The Timney is the best investment in a factory Remington. As much as I like Remingtons they do have some minor imperfections that can be fixed. I have customs and factory rems and the trued actions I have that have been worked are so much better than the factory original. That being said when I buy a factory Remington I start by replacing the trigger with a Timney so I have a nice trigger that is safe and durable for hunting situations. I get sick of the cheap stocks real quick and add a Bell and Carlson or and HS and bring the accuracy up a little that way and have a better feeling gun. It seems with the factory barrels I seem to have to try a little harder to find a reload for those guns. I have a have tactical 223 that has about 2500 more 52 grain amaxes to burn up and it is going to get a new barrel and stock. If I rebarrel I will always have it trued it is just worth it.

 

[Bronc1]

I spent over a year buying, trying, testing, rifles, scopes and ammo to make sure I had everything covered before I got to Africa and even at that, my first two shots with the Swift SciroccoII's were abysmal failures leaving me with a gun I could not trust for the rest of the hunt unless I could replace them and do it fast with a bullett my PH had complete faith in and I didn't want to spend the rest of the trip shooting all of the small and large animals alike with the .375 Ruger because although the DGX's were getting the job done, they were separating, something they are not supposed to do and as a result weren't giving me anything close to through and through shots even shooting zebral on the shoulder or my big sable dead straight on center of the chest.

The wider my experience has gotten on medium and large game the more demanding I've become as to what I expect as minimal acceptable terminal performance.

I want considerable but controlled expansion I can count on every time I pull the trigger that makes big enough hole and carries enough mass and velocity to the target to guarantee to the greatest extent possible one shot kills that produce minimal meat loss.

In order, my favorite bullets based on that criteria are the Peregrine Plainsmaster, Hornady Interbond, and Nosler Accubond. I have also had acceptable but limited performance out of the Longer range versions of both the Peregrine and Nosler bullets previously mentioned.

I have also done quite a bit of experimenting with hunting and varmint bullets. Some of my favorite varmint bullets are nosler ballistic tip, vmax, amax, sierra blitzking and use softpoint 55 grain hornadys. I put up lots of fur so I do like a bullet that does minimal damage.
Some of my favorite big game bullets are the accubond, partition, and gameking.
I have found a severe dislike for TSX, Berger, and Ballistic tips. The TSX is not much better than a full metal jacket unless you run into bone. The Berger and the Ballistic tip are grenades if you shoot animals at close range. That being said a sierra game king is right on the edge too.

 

[WildRose]

I have also done quite a bit of experimenting with hunting and varmint bullets. Some of my favorite varmint bullets are nosler ballistic tip, vmax, amax, sierra blitzking and use softpoint 55 grain hornadys. I put up lots of fur so I do like a bullet that does minimal damage.
Some of my favorite big game bullets are the accubond, partition, and gameking.
I have found a severe dislike for TSX, Berger, and Ballistic tips. The TSX is not much better than a full metal jacket unless you run into bone. The Berger and the Ballistic tip are grenades if you shoot animals at close range. That being said a sierra game king is right on the edge too.

We have similar experience. I shot a pretty nice buck in November in kind of a fluke situation. I finished chores with maybe five minutes of shooting light left and just grabbed on of my .260's and took about a 200yds walk through the heavy mesquites to the edge of my CRP field which borders my neighbors wheat field. That time of day it's real easy to catch coyotes slipping along just on my side of the fence and I wanted to try punching one.

I was shooting 120gr SGK's which I'd always considered a respectable hunting bullet but after seeing the wreckage in that buck I really wanted to throw up. We lost at least ten pounds of meat because the bullet shelled out more like what I'm used to from the NBT's. I'd had some do that in the STW on shots between 300-500 a few years back which turned me away from them and the whole Sierra line with the exception of shooting their 55gr bullets at varmints and predators in my .220 Swift.

Because of my granddad's experiences growing up through the depression there's one golden rule about wasting or ruining food, you simply don't do it. That was heavily reinforced when I was in college because Jimmy and I lived almost exclusively on wild game and fish that we caught.

I have yet to ever, even once have a Hornady Interbond, or Nosler Accubond fail to perform as advertised and expected through literally hundreds of game animals taken with them, I just find the expansion of the Peregrines to be even much more to my liking. I've also had good luck with the ABLR and Hornady ELD-X for the most part but I've also had some ELD-X's come break up on me just like the interlocks did frequently with High impact velocities of 2,500fps or more. They haven't quite lived up to their billing terminally but they do shoot well.

As soon as it dries up enough to get to the range I've got a bunch of ELD-X's loaded up for the .300 Rum, .260 Rem's and 7mm STW with various powders and charges to try and narrow down where I reach the highest accuracy potential with them so I'll be checking in on the Alliant Powder and ELD-X threads after that trip to the range.

I have I think 200ea for 6.5, 7mm, and .30 cal and about the same numbers of ABLR's for each of them so when/if I get to that OMG load for each of them I'll use them in the off season for plinking, varmint, and predator control. My neighbors are calving right now and they really like me to patrol their calving traps as often as I can night and day to try and keep the coyotes and pigs thinned down as much as possible and of course I'm glad to oblige.

I pulled the rest of the SGK's and threw them in the trash.

As for the ttsx I actually found it to work very well in the AR's on slaughtering pigs and coyotes. Those are strictly depredation loss prevention kind of hunts where the only thing that matters is putting a hole through them and preferably doing so in such a way that if they are in a tilled field they'll run out of it before they die. Farmers really tend to hate getting a dead hog or coyote jammed up in a disc or wheat drill and quite frankly I don't blame them. Since my lifestyle has resulted in just about all of the cartilage now being dead and gone in my right ankle I hate walking across a hard clay field or pasture full of cow tracks just to drag one off where it won't get inconvenience the farmers any.

I ran into them on the road just coming off of the highway day before yesterday and I told them where I'd been the coyotes I'd shot and warned them that the pigs were starting to show in and around their calving pastures and you couldn't see two happier guys or more appreciable people. They thanked me up and down the wall for "looking out for them" and I just laughed and told them I'm glad to help but more than anything I was having a ball.

They are the kind of neighbors that define the term "Neighborly People" to a T.

 

[WildRose]

PS, as for the Timiny Triggers, I'm not all that sold on them. I have one on a semi custom I bought off of a fellow poster here a few years back and while it works as intended every time, it just doesn't feel to me like there's 200.00 worth of improvement in them and the factory triggers once I get through working them over.

If someone will ever go back to manufacturing a good single set trigger for the 700 platform at a reasonable price though you will probably see me quickly buying up as many as I think I'll need over the balance of my life as quickly as I can without getting into too much trouble with the wife.

The Rifle Basix Trigger and one other interest me as well. I'm just not going to lay out the money for an aftermarket trigger though that isn't externally fully, and safely adjustable.

If I'm going to have to pull a gun apart to adjust the trigger I might as well stick with the Walker Triggers and X-Mark Pro. I've had no problem getting them down to a tolerable weight and crisp, clean release with a little luck. I'm truly fortunate in that I've never gotten one of the X-Marks with the ridiculously heavy spring.

 

[Zorack]

Why would one want to blueprint a M700 action and add a M16 extractor?

Why would you not twang to blue print a 700 action or any action in general?

 

[Zorack]

Hi Everyone:

I am in the process of building a custom 300 win mag. I plan to go on a hunts for some larger big game such as elk, moose, grizzly, and caribou. I have a ruger m77 mkII but don't trust the accuracy of this gun to go on these hunts. I am thinking of building a lighter weight rifle as I don't plan on shooting at much past 600 yds.

I have been researching either blueprinting a rem 700 stainless action and adding a M16 extractor or just go buy a Stiller Predator. I planning on using a Krieger , Brux, or Benchmark barrel at 26 in finished with a Vias brake. The contour I was planning was a #4 Heavy Sporter.

I am really up in the air with choice of stocks. I have some bell and Carlson stocks and an HS Precision on my rifles right now. I had a bad experience with an HS precision and had to dremel the bedding block in order to fit action and add some thick bedding to square the action to the stock. I would really like a Mcmillan Edge as they are only 22-24 oz. The Grayboe stocks look good but heavier at 2.5 lbs. I want a tough stock that is fairly lightweight. I worried that the bell and carlsons are on the weak side when hunting in cold weather and prone to breaking if it takes a fall. I want to pack around a heavy gun around the mountains.

The scope I have chose is a 3-18x44 luepold with a moar reticle and cds internal dial.

I looking for input on some of the selections good, bad, ugly.

Why don't you blue print the M77 action? Most likely the problem with M77 is the barrel and stock. I like the side port brakes as well cause they kick up less debris, I hAve a custom built 700 as well with a Lilia barrel that shoots perfect. I would go 1.9 twist as well like another member suggested.

 

[Garycrow]

If I were going to use a remington M700 I'd blueprint and leave the extractor as is. If I had to modify the extractor I'd use the M16, the sako weakens the bolt and isn't pinned, they've been known to come down the left lug raceway if you have a case rupture. The M16 weakens it too, but at least it's pinned and less prone to coming back in your face.

However, if I were going to do all that I'd just skip it and buy the Stiller. Notice the stiller uses an M16 extractor too, not the sako.

A 1-10 twist is plenty for a 210 accubond, but since you're starting from scratch you might as well make it a 1-9, it won't hurt anything and will let you shoot anything.

 

[86alaskan]

Ok, I'll step out on a limb here and give an alternative opinion. I have used and can vouch for the Tikka T3 in the wilds of Alaska for dangerous game. I have the T3 Boar Hunter version, started with the 338WM and then traded it off for the 300WM so I could suppress it. I has a nice heavy contour fluted barrel, sturdy express open sights and one of the smoothest actions you'll ever run out of the box. I carried those 2 rifles all over the mountains in Alaska and really never felt under gunned, except when you're stalking a bear that knows you're there, in which case, I don't think any gun would be big enough. Anyway, they already have the sako extractor, very smooth bolt operation, you can get a McMillan or Manners made for them, and you won't have to true the action or replace the barrel. On both guns I was easily able to get sub-MOA fast 4 shot groups when hand loading. I shot 4 because that was 1 in the chamber and 3 in the mag, simulating a fast mag dump at an angry animal. It may not be anywhere you were looking, but it sure would be high on my list if I were building a rifle.

 

[Bronc1]

Why don't you blue print the M77 action? Most likely the problem with M77 is the barrel and stock. I like the side port brakes as well cause they kick up less debris, I hAve a custom built 700 as well with a Lilia barrel that shoots perfect. I would go 1.9 twist as well like another member suggested.

I like the ruger M77 and grew up using them. I am hesitant to buy a McMillan for it and find out it is not a bedding problem. I think it does have a bedding issue as it has a flyer on 4 shot groups. I should talk to the local gunsmith and see if he is interested in accurizing the action.

 

[ohiohunter]

Is the barrel floated?

 

[Bronc1]

Is the barrel floated?

Yes it is floated and I have tried putting a pressure point back in it and it shoots about the same group with 1 flyer.

 

[ohiohunter]

4 shots with no cooling? And how bad is the flyer?

I'm working up loads for a friends hawkeye, and it does the same thing but with 3shots. I attempted to float it but the flat head front screw is torqued tight and I have no desire to strip it. Might let someone else free it up. I did find a load that printed 0.75, I'll see if I can repeat it. All things considered I do not see him shooting further than 400yds which happens to be about the top of his duplex post. Honestly a 1.5moa gun would be about all he needs, but I can't let that happen!