Browning Muzzle Threading Woes

HuntingBronco

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193
Location
Michigan
Seeking wisdom. I had the muzzle threaded on my Browning Sako 22-250 and took it out and it seems to be unhappy shooting with my cans. It goes from easy sub-moa with nothing on the barrel (just as it was before) to wild 2-3-4 inch groups at 100yds. Same experience with 3 different cans, including a TB Ultra 9, ranging from 22 cal to 30 cal. I use my cans across multiple hosts and this is the first time I have had an accuracy problem. (4 years of shooting with cans.) First reaction was dirty cans (my rimfire can causes significant accuracy problems on my guns once it gets dirty.) So, I spent a week cleaning all of my centerfire cans. Back to range. No luck. Hmmm, well only other trick was to redo load development. So, ran H380 ladders with 3 bullets and no luck. Same thing. Crap with can on and no trouble with can off.

I want to start with the assumption the gunsmith did it right. He did other work for me and it was well done. I am running through 22 cal cans and 30 cal cans. Same problem.

So the fact that it shoots well when I pull the can off suggests I don't have other problems. To me it is amazing how bad this gets. Not sure where to look or what to check. Any suggestions?

ps - if people are interested, I would be happy to post a write up on my can cleaning exercise - it was enlightening.
 
Is it possible the threading on the end of the barrel is not concentric to the barrel? Can you see any type of misalignment. If you got a muzzle thread protector, look closely when you screw it on, might be easier than seeing as the can goes on.
 
You could check the alignment with one of these alignment rods or a tight cleaning rod may also be able to show something is off if you feed it through from the chamber end with a suppressor on it.
 

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What is your barrel contour and length? Consider that the added weight on the end of the barrel has pulled it out of tune or is causing more whip. Check your bedding if you have any, and consider adding some temporary shims/contact points between the barrel and stock towards the muzzle to see if you find an improvement - then go with a more permanent solution. So many variables, you have to go after them one at a time.
 
Is it possible the threading on the end of the barrel is not concentric to the barrel? Can you see any type of misalignment. If you got a muzzle thread protector, look closely when you screw it on, might be easier than seeing as the can goes on.
Thanks! I think so, but would be so shocked and disappointed. I will try to check it out. All of my pin gauge are 2" long. I will try to make something up and see if I can detect a problem.
 
Crap. Was there any indication of baffle strikes before you cleaned the cans?
Is it a real small diameter barrel?
Thanks. Yes, very crappy. It is medium contour. No indication of baffle strikes. Besides, I would think at 22-250 velocity, baffle strikes would vaporize bullets. Maybe not. We certainly were worried about that and the misalignment and hoped moving up to 30 cal cans would solve the problem. It did not.
 
You could check the alignment with one of these alignment rods or a tight cleaning rod may also be able to show something is off if you feed it through from the chamber end with a suppressor on it.
Agree. I think I'll take it back and let them check it or take it to a new smith and let them check it. I don't have much need for that precision tool and I will likely bend it with it just laying around. It's a good option and if I end up with no other choice, I know I can turn there as a last resort.
 
What is your barrel contour and length? Consider that the added weight on the end of the barrel has pulled it out of tune or is causing more whip. Check your bedding if you have any, and consider adding some temporary shims/contact points between the barrel and stock towards the muzzle to see if you find an improvement - then go with a more permanent solution. So many variables, you have to go after them one at a time.
It is a medium profile barrel (factory original barrel that I was trying to keep on the gun.) I would say it is close to 24". This gun has not been bedded. It is a salt wood stock browning and I don't feel bad fiddling with it. Bedding would be an option, but it shot so well before that I was hoping to bed after I shoot this one out, if I ever do. I guess if it is concentric and I can't tune it with handloads, bedding is a next logical step. I have never added shims, so I could play with that. The barrel is not free floating and never was. Thanks for the suggestion. These Mauser style actions suck to bed. (for me, lol.)
 
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