I agree with everyone here, but he never said what broadheads he was shootin, I had a buddy that bought some cheap wally world heads fer like $9.99 and we just couldn't get em to fly straight at all, they dove down and to the right and his field tips were perfect. Threw em away, bought NAP 125 spitfires and wala, problem solved.
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broad head and field point issues
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I have bowhunted for about 35 yrs. and it is not the BOW TUNE. broadheads arejust like bullets and many fly different, look at all the different shapes, 2-3-4, and expandables. Yuo can get SOME blades to fly to same POINT, but it is more common tha they dont. Blade models are just like having fletching on the front, look at the shape a nd air drag. A friend of mine that is only a few animals away from the super slam ONLY shoots broadheads out of his bow, I do the same with my hunting bow. My bow is tuned ,my arrows are correct for bow, paper tuned,and I SHOOT every arrow into gruops and nuber them, I F THEY DONT GROUP they are grouse arrows.
actually it is tune! every arhcery expert in the world will say this. the best tune your bow will have is when your broad heads fly with fly with your field points. I spent much time the last 4 years tuning people bows for them in a pro shop. And let me tell you that paper tuning is just a starting point for tuning. group tuning, bareshaft tuning and walk back tuning will do far more for you than paper tuning. I have been hunting for 18 years and shooting tournament archery for 14 then working in a shop for the last 4. Currently I am a sales rep for a new company. Archery is what I do for my work and for my enjoyment. If I have three different broad heads one of them will obviously be more critical than the others and when tuning a bow I would tune using that style and once that head is grouping with the field points the other 2 will as well. The reason we do this is because however more minutely we change the tune we can deliver energy more effectively. On my Bison hunts this is very important.
There is a lot of good information here. Matching your arrows/broadhead to your draw weight and pull is one of the most important parts. Most of the major companies have programs that will tell you what arrow you need. I use Aramid-KV by Carbon Express. I have found that they are the most durable and straightest manufacture. If you are using an arrow with too thin of a spine, it will flex when you release. On the other hand, if it is too stiff it will not have enough power behind it. Both of these would cause inaccuracy. Using broadheads with greater than 100 gr with your draw weight can cause your arrow to pull downwards when you shoot pass 30 yards. I use the 100gr Grim Reapers. They will tear the vitals up. Great blood trail and quick death. Also, you want to practice with what you are going to be hunting with. I have a set of broadheads that are set aside just for practice and as my hunting heads get dull I turn them into practice heads. You are also able to use rubber o-rings to maintain tightness and have your broadhead aerodynamically sound (the way the blades are angled).
Robin Hooding arrows gets very expensive. I would get a nice broadhead block with multiple targets on each side and only shoot once at each target. Its nice to know that you can group them and all, but the main thing to practice is getting the vital area. I would also put up a treestand and practice from that. If 90% of your hits are within a 2" diameter circle, I wouldn't be worried about the 10% that hit outside of it. With arrows travel between 250-340 fps, a small gust of wind will throw you off at farther distances.
Angling the fletching will be more accurate as well. But, you have to have the right arrow rest for it. If you are using the whisker biscuits or octane's, the arrow will lose fps right of the bat by hitting the rest while trying to turn. You would want to get a drop-away rest.
I would go to a local archery store and/or talk to the hunters in your area. They will be able to suggest equipment that would better suited for your hunting style (ie carbon for deer and smaller or aluminum for bear/elk).
That's my .02 cents
Robin Hooding arrows gets very expensive. I would get a nice broadhead block with multiple targets on each side and only shoot once at each target. Its nice to know that you can group them and all, but the main thing to practice is getting the vital area. I would also put up a treestand and practice from that. If 90% of your hits are within a 2" diameter circle, I wouldn't be worried about the 10% that hit outside of it. With arrows travel between 250-340 fps, a small gust of wind will throw you off at farther distances.
Angling the fletching will be more accurate as well. But, you have to have the right arrow rest for it. If you are using the whisker biscuits or octane's, the arrow will lose fps right of the bat by hitting the rest while trying to turn. You would want to get a drop-away rest.
I would go to a local archery store and/or talk to the hunters in your area. They will be able to suggest equipment that would better suited for your hunting style (ie carbon for deer and smaller or aluminum for bear/elk).
That's my .02 cents
jAPPLE, The pro shop I SHOT AT, one guy competed at worlds, Olyipic style, last year. Shop owner 2 time state champ, my best hunting buddy, last years overall state champ(recurve) Qualified for world IBO, AND PAST SHOP i shot at, now close, IBO WORLDS shOOTER 300 -60X. tHAT owner first to shoot a 300 vegas in a Wyo. compition . Think it was Wyo. And another friend who I have hunted with from hereto AK 60 P&Y ANIMALS, PROBABLY MOST POPOE BULLS IN mt. I know the bow and arrow tune is important, but you dont always get the heads to fly to same point as field tips, the farther the shot usally more difference
well I think we will just have to disagree on some of these things because I don't want to argue with you about it. But to throw out all the stats of the people you shoot with is unnecessary. The owner that I shoot for is a 10 time state champ in oR and WA as well as winner of the team money comp. in redding with fingers as well as second in indvidual, and placing 3rd in Freestyle limited at NFAA field champ. And qualifying for the IBO worlds is a joke unless you do it at the National triple crown, All you have to do is place top 20 in a sanctioned qualifier. My point is that tournament archery is a small world and if you go to enough shoots and are involved enough you will meet plently of great shooters. You deffinately sound like you have a ton of experience and knowledge, and in everything in life there are a number of ways to accomplish something so lets just agree to have different opinions. Good luck on the next year shooting. Nothing better than spending time with a bow in your hands.
japple, No I agree to dis agree, The one friend I refered to place , IF I remember right 6 at worlds IBO, He isnt competing anymore and got into trap, which he loves because he is into the "money" which wasnt really there in archery, as far as prize purses etc. He is just one of those guys that can shoot anything.
I have some freinds like that too, very frustrating for me. I have to work my but off to shoot anything well. Not a gift for me like it is for some. But it sure is a passion!
