Bore pics - what is this ?

Would you show us a before and after picture, after you try the Boretech Eliminator soak for a week? I'd be interested in seeing the difference.
I have never used or have any Eliminator, if it was me you were actually asking this of. I have a cleaning routine that I have adhered to for over 4 yrs, and pretty sure I have a 3yr supply of what I use. So it will be some time before I buy eliminator, if I even do so.
 
Thanks, I keep reading conflicting reports that it may cause rust. I sure like their products though, esp C4.


That's Ok ! better safe than sorry. I don't like leaving any solvent over night, and it is best to be safe.

When I was first made aware of Boretech I had to test it on a take off barrel and bore scope it to be sure. I saw no signs of any problem but I still clean until done. I have only left barrels soaking over night a couple of times, and it still made me nervous.

I guess I don't want to take a chance even though it appears safe.

The other option is to use a very aggressive solvent like Sweets to remove the copper fouling and do it in one session then neutralize it with Hoppes, Bore scope it and lightly oil for storage.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
Does anyone have any before and after barrel pics from using BoreTech? I too have jumped on the Teslong bore scope and can see my barrels needs to be cleaned better. Most shoot really good so I'm not worried about my barrels being wasted, but some are starting to get carbon rings that would be beneficial to get rid of. I'll purchase some BoreTech and maybe post before and after pics as well.
 
I got on the Teslong bandwagon, and got the borescope today.

The rifle is a 1946 model 70 in 375 H&H, and I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

Is this leading, or is it pitting ?





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I do not think it is pitting.Pitting is below the bore and lands. Not on top of them. I would use JB bore paste on top of a patch wound on a brush so it is a tight fit in the bore. And every 20 strokes replace the patch with new paste. But do not run it out the muzzle. Then scope it and see. As another man quoted if that does not do it Tubb,s final finish. But get the bronze out with a good solvent. I have good luck with pro shot products copper solvent IV. You can leave it in as long as you want. If that whole process does not so it I am afraid you need a new barrel.
 
Is it pitting or some kind of bumpy build up? What kind of shape is the rifle in? Does it have clean original wood with factory but plate and are the sights in original condition? If it is a complete clean MOD70 in 375H&H and shoots ok enjoy it as a rare collectible and leave it as is. Or you could get top dollar for it and buy a run of the mill M70 and play with it. DO NOT I say DO NOT F up a nice clean collectable (if it is) just because the bore looks funky. I just went through the process of selling a M70 in 300H&H and it had several issues (wood crack at the top of wrist behind rear tang and a barrel that was not correct for age of receiver), if not for those it would have sold for a lot more. But of course you are free to do what you like.
 
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That's Ok ! better safe than sorry. I don't like leaving any solvent over night, and it is best to be safe.

When I was first made aware of Boretech I had to test it on a take off barrel and bore scope it to be sure. I saw no signs of any problem but I still clean until done. I have only left barrels soaking over night a couple of times, and it still made me nervous.

I guess I don't want to take a chance even though it appears safe.

The other option is to use a very aggressive solvent like Sweets to remove the copper fouling and do it in one session then neutralize it with Hoppes, Bore scope it and lightly oil for storage.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM
I have no experience with eliminator, I have just read that it may generate rust, anything I have said on it is hearsay. Whether the sources were credible or not, I tend to not run something in my bore that may cause rust, I have enough problems, lol.
CLR as a carbon cleaner gained a lot of traction in the last 2 yrs, and I know it works great on brakes and suppressors. I'm not running anything water based down my bore.
 
Yeah, It appears to be pitting however because of it's age 1946 could this condition because of corrosive primers? Best of luck.
 
I have no experience with eliminator, I have just read that it may generate rust, anything I have said on it is hearsay. Whether the sources were credible or not, I tend to not run something in my bore that may cause rust, I have enough problems, lol.
CLR as a carbon cleaner gained a lot of traction in the last 2 yrs, and I know it works great on brakes and suppressors. I'm not running anything water based down my bore.
If it is rust pits,or caustic fouling,you are probably not going to hurt it by going after it aggressively. But...go as you feel comfortable with. I feel that Wipe Out will give you gentle results,and actually leaves a rust preventative coating behind. I believe that the Bore Tech products are similar. From the looks of it,you are either going to have to get aggressive, or spend weeks and weeks cleaning. I would like to follow along with your borescope,as I think most here would. Good luck!
 
It looks like it might be pitting to me. From the appearance of the copper fouling, the rifle was shot subsequently.. I have seen this type of pitting from long term exposure to high humidity with insufficient lubrication, As mentioned by JP Custom, it could also be chemical corrosion from corrosive primers or perhaps harsh (ammonia based) solvent. If this is the case the rifle may shoot OK, but I suspect it may foul easily, and be difficult to clean. IMO.
 
I use BoreTech eliminator for cleaning my rifles, and I usually just leave a light coat of it in the bore (as per their instructions on the bottle). If you are concerned, run a patch with oil down the bore. Just make sure to run a dry patch through the barrel before shooting.
 
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