Bore cleaning

Just a thought.....

I recently discovered an excellent way to clean brass or copper. Citric acid will do an excellent job. I spent hours of online researching about this before I attempted to use it. Citric acid is "passive" when cleaning brass or copper. Essentially it means, it does not remove any metal. Instead, it turns tarnish back into it's original state. Since citric acid is in many fruits, I decided to try using diluted "Real Lemon Concentrate". I was shocked at how well it works. The solution gets weaker with use, but it only takes longer to get the job done. If brass has been corroded enough to cause pitting, it will not get rid of the pitting.

I suggest trying to use it on brass jags that have any green on them from using Wipe-Out or any similar bore cleaner.

To avoid being misunderstood, citric acid is excellent for cleaning tarnished brass. It will not fix pitted or corroded brass or copper.
I really had doubts about this until I left 4 or 5 old tarnished .308 cases (20 years old or more) in a citric acid solution for 4 days. Spinning brass and using 0000 steel wool, will make brass look better than new.
I bought 5 pounds of powdered citric acid from Amazon for $18. Enough to last for a very long time.
 
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Dewey rods, Wipeout with accelarator with Sinclair boreguides. I do use Boreshine, Cr-10 and Hoppes occasionally. Also Kroil. I talked with the owner of Wipeout and they are coming out with a new Wipeout with carbon killer. He said the test results are looking promising. I ordered 3 cans but have not seen them . That was 8 months ago.
What are you guys using to get the carbon out?
 
I first run some patches of Bore Tech Carbon Remover till they look almost clean and then use Bore Tech Eliminator for the jacket fouling.
I use Lucas bore guides and Tipton nickle plated jags.
All of these products work very well for me.
When the patches quit turning blue, I hooked up a Outers Foul Out unit to see what was left in the bore and upon switching on the power the indicator lights almost immediately showed "clean".
I wanted a squeaky clean bore to apply this.

Dyna-Bore Coat

Going to see if it works. Reviews look good after researching.
 
I first run some patches of Bore Tech Carbon Remover till they look almost clean and then use Bore Tech Eliminator for the jacket fouling.
I use Lucas bore guides and Tipton nickle plated jags.
All of these products work very well for me.
When the patches quit turning blue, I hooked up a Outers Foul Out unit to see what was left in the bore and upon switching on the power the indicator lights almost immediately showed "clean".
I wanted a squeaky clean bore to apply this.

Dyna-Bore Coat

Going to see if it works. Reviews look good after researching.

Have you had a chance to see how well Dyna-Bore coat works yet?

I've considered it for myself, but I don't want to put a coating on the bore before the barrel is worn in. I'm reluctant to do it sooner for fear the break-in period will take much longer.

Spencer
 
I tried KG 1 & 12. When KG12 showed clean patches, BTE got out a good bit more copper.

I've seen a number of reviews of bore cleaner over the past few months. I haven't kept count, but there's at least 3 combinations I've seen, where the first bore cleaner removes a lot, but the second one always removed more. It makes me wonder if the process was reversed, would the last one still remove more copper. Has anyone tried this to see what would happen?
I'd try it, but I'm a tightwad. Some of you probably already have 6-8 of these cleaners & they'd be able to conduct this experiment.
I know I don't want to use Sweets or any other cleaner with ammonia for one simple reason. With a severe A.D.D. problem, I get distracted very easily, & do not want to ruin a bore on a new rifle because I let it sit for several hours or more with a ammoniated cleaner in the bore.
Presently, I'm using Wipe-Out along with the Accelerator, after I've run a brush through the bore with Hoppe's in & out twice and enough patches alternating between wet & dry until the patches come out nearly spotless . I always allow it to sit at least 12 hours plus, with the barrel slightly tilted down. I always get a very deep blue which runs out of the bore after I remove a gas check as a plug. It seems to do an excellent job, but I'm always open to someone else's experiences. I'm never in a hurry though. I can always load ammo for my next session
I also recently bought "Losso Nylex" bore brushes which should help a little more to eliminate wear.
 
I've seen a number of reviews of bore cleaner over the past few months. I haven't kept count, but there's at least 3 combinations I've seen, where the first bore cleaner removes a lot, but the second one always removed more. It makes me wonder if the process was reversed, would the last one still remove more copper. Has anyone tried this to see what would happen?
I'd try it, but I'm a tightwad. Some of you probably already have 6-8 of these cleaners & they'd be able to conduct this experiment.
I know I don't want to use Sweets or any other cleaner with ammonia for one simple reason. With a severe A.D.D. problem, I get distracted very easily, & do not want to ruin a bore on a new rifle because I let it sit for several hours or more with a ammoniated cleaner in the bore.
Presently, I'm using Wipe-Out along with the Accelerator, after I've run a brush through the bore with Hoppe's in & out twice and enough patches alternating between wet & dry until the patches come out nearly spotless . I always allow it to sit at least 12 hours plus, with the barrel slightly tilted down. I always get a very deep blue which runs out of the bore after I remove a gas check as a plug. It seems to do an excellent job, but I'm always open to someone else's experiences. I'm never in a hurry though. I can always load ammo for my next session
I also recently bought "Losso Nylex" bore brushes which should help a little more to eliminate wear.

Yup, tried it both ways. BTE got it out when KG left some behind and BTE doesn't leave it any behind if you do it thoroughly. A bore scope has proved that.

Wipeout is good to. It just takes longer, but then there's less patches and scrubbing. If I'm not in a hurry, Wipeout is a good way to go.
 
Yup, tried it both ways. BTE got it out when KG left some behind and BTE doesn't leave it any behind if you do it thoroughly. A bore scope has proved that.

Wipeout is good to. It just takes longer, but then there's less patches and scrubbing. If I'm not in a hurry, Wipeout is a good way to go.

I clean pretty thoroughly, generally about 16-18 patches worth & brushing at 2 separate times. I always figger after brushing the first time & allowing it to sit overnight, maybe brushing again the next day would be a good idea with a Losso brush, just to insure I get everything I can in the corners of the grooves. Perhaps KG-12 would be better for cleaning at the range instead of Hoppe's. KG-1 may also do better for carbon at the range. This cleaning thing, is a ritual I never used to do 40 years ago, but I was just a kid then.

Thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
 
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Dewey rods, Wipeout with accelarator with Sinclair boreguides. I do use Boreshine, Cr-10 and Hoppes occasionally. Also Kroil. I talked with the owner of Wipeout and they are coming out with a new Wipeout with carbon killer. He said the test results are looking promising. I ordered 3 cans but have not seen them . That was 8 months ago.
What are you guys using to get the carbon out?

I've been using BoreTec C4 for carbon. It seems adequate, but slightly labor intensive. After using WipeOut I've been spoiled. I only started using BoreTech to insure I was completely getting all of the carbon out. Always used it before using WipeOut & almost always applied WipeOut late in the evening & removed it the next morning.

I don't care for the smell of C4 & it seems to leave a residue on my fingers that needs to be scrubbed a couple of times to remove the residue. I ain't a puss I just sound like one.:)
 
I like bore tech eliminator a lot, and recently have been using kg 2 and 12 which also work very well. I always clean up with some kroil and leave a light film of it in the bore. Kroil is a very useful product when working with firearms. I use it for everything but my breakfast cereal.:D.......Rich
 
I like bore tech eliminator a lot, and recently have been using kg 2 and 12 which also work very well. I always clean up with some kroil and leave a light film of it in the bore. Kroil is a very useful product when working with firearms. I use it for everything but my breakfast cereal.:D.......Rich

I never tried the Kroil with my cereal yet. But, I do like the Hoppes #9 in my Cheerios. That banana odor makes it so sweet !!
 
I favor Wipeout and Montana Extreme Copper killer.

Based on my experiences prairie dog shooting we are all over cleaning. This last trip I only cleaned my 223 (Rem factory barrel), 204 (Hart barrel) and my son's 223 (CZ factory barrel) about every 60 rounds. Cleaning was typically 4-8 patches with Copper Killer followed by a dry patch. Typically the first couple of patches only removes carbon judging by how black they were. I haven't used any kind of brush on my center fire rifles shooting jacketed bullets in years.

After getting home I left Copper Killer in them over night and followed with a couple dry patches in the morning. Even though the CZ went through about 750 rounds my borescope showed the barrel to be clean as were the others.
 
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