book or internet info on wood stock inletting

[Tac-O]

I've been wanting to make my own walnut stock for my rifle and I've looked around on the web quite a bit for books or online instruction. I've found some online information, but none that I'm completely satisfied and confident with. I've also seen a couple of books referenced but they are very old and out of print or a couple hundred dollars. I want to make my stock with hand tools; chisels, etc.

Does anyone have any good recommendations on books or online resources for making wood stocks from scratch?

 

[shortgrass]

I've never seen much on-line that got into much depth of the subject. Books I've seen kinda' come up short, also. They spend more print on shaping. What action are you looking at using?

 

[Tac-O]

I have a Tikka and a Savage Axis.

 

[ShootMo]

You could get your feet wet by having one of the stock companies like Stocky's "semi-inlet" your blank. That way you finish all the action and magazine well work, while also being free to shape the blank completely by hand.

 

[ShootMo]

I did a few when I was younger. But I had no technique or method of any kind other than remove a little material, then set the action in it. Once you get a decent bit of material removed so that the action is actually sitting inside the stock to some degree, you have to begin being vigilant about your centerline. Devise some method that's as precise as you can make it, to enable you to stay on center. That's a lot easier with some, than it is with others. But do your best and you'll be fine. It takes a long time by hand. If you lose your focus, stop for the day.

 

[Tac-O]

I did a few when I was younger. But I had no technique or method of any kind other than remove a little material, then set the action in it. Once you get a decent bit of material removed so that the action is actually sitting inside the stock to some degree, you have to begin being vigilant about your centerline. Devise some method that's as precise as you can make it, to enable you to stay on center. That's a lot easier with some, than it is with others. But do your best and you'll be fine. It takes a long time by hand. If you lose your focus, stop for the day.

I've thought about the stockys semi inlet. But not sure how much inlet they actually do. I already happened to pick up a nice piece of 2.5 x 7 x 36 walnut that is kiln dried. And the grain is nice!

I have almost no hand wood tools, and not sure what I should get to start. I've got a friend with a bandsaw and drill press, so he can help me with making the rough blank and the action holes, but the only hand tools i have are a cheapo set of regular flat chisels from harbor freight. I saw Brownells has a starter kit, but it's $600!!!! I was hoping to be able to to find a few chisels and rasps that would get me through the first couple of stocks for $150 or less. Any recommendations?

 

[ShootMo]

I'm not a woodworker these days, but if I were trying to do it again on the cheap, I would shop around at local estate auctions for a draw knife in decent condition, an assortment of small carving chisels, a large four-sided rasp, and sandpaper. You get almost all of it done with those, if memory serves.

 

[shortgrass]

I'd like to see a pic of your blank, if possible. You won't find suitable tools at the Ace Hardware. Intermediate sized carving chisels and gouges are the handiest. Full sized carving tools will just make it harder as they won't handle as easily as intermediate tools will. No need for files or rasps for inletting. Chisels, gouges and scrapers are the tools. I'll try to post a pic later of some of the tools I use. I have made many stocks by hand from a blank and many more using pre-inletted stocks. I'd not be buying a pre-inlet from Stockys or Richards MicroFit, there are much better than those to be had and for fewer $$$$. You will need a set of guide pins and hand screws besides the other hand tools I listed. A good 4" square is awful handy. Good carving tools are not low cost. There are better choices for few $$$ than what Brownells lists.

 

[Tac-O]

I'm not a woodworker these days, but if I were trying to do it again on the cheap, I would shop around at local estate auctions for a draw knife in decent condition, an assortment of small carving chisels, a large four-sided rasp, and sandpaper. You get almost all of it done with those, if memory serves.

Thanks, I'll have to do that.

 

[Tac-O]

I'd like to see a pic of your blank, if possible. You won't find suitable tools at the Ace Hardware. Intermediate sized carving chisels and gouges are the handiest. Full sized carving tools will just make it harder as they won't handle as easily as intermediate tools will. No need for files or rasps for inletting. Chisels, gouges and scrapers are the tools. I'll try to post a pic later of some of the tools I use. I have made many stocks by hand from a blank and many more using pre-inletted stocks. I'd not be buying a pre-inlet from Stockys or Richards MicroFit, there are much better than those to be had and for fewer $$$$. You will need a set of guide pins and hand screws besides the other hand tools I listed. A good 4" square is awful handy. Good carving tools are not low cost. There are better choices for few $$$ than what Brownells lists.

I'll get a picture on here this evening. Yes if you can let me know what type of chisels and gouges would be worth purchasing and would be in my budget, that would be great.

I'm hoping I can get what I need before the state says I can't go anywhere except for the grocery store!!

 

[shortgrass]

Here's a few pics of the stock inletting tools I like and use. This is just a 'sampling' that I pulled down of the peg board. I actually have and use many more, but these are the 'basic' tools for hand inletting.

 

[shortgrass]

Notice the chisel on the far left in the top pic, that is a "full size carving chisel". The others are all intermediate sized. I have that full sized because in the intermediate size, they only make a straight chisel up to about 12mm wide. The majority of the chisels and gouges are made by Dastra Woodscrew. The full sized chisel is made by Pfeil. Datra is German made, Pfeil is Swiss made. Some of the tools pictured are those I made to suit the purpose because I couldn't find what I wanted commercially made. The round scrapers are Jerry Fisher from Brownells. The guide pins and hand screws you can either make if you have a lathe or Brownells stocks them. I have tried many different marking compounds and settled on Jerrows Inletting Black or Gold, depending on the coloring of the wood and which shows up better. It can be messy stuff, but it sure leaves a good mark you can see. I have that full size straight chisel because it is 7/8" wide and works good on the walls of the magazine inletting.

 

[Tac-O]

Notice the chisel on the far left in the top pic, that is a "full size carving chisel". The others are all intermediate sized. I have that full sized because in the intermediate size, they only make a straight chisel up to about 25mm wide. The majority of the chisels and gouges are made by Dastra Woodscrew. The full sized chisel is made by Pfeil. Datra is German made, Pfeil is Swiss made. Some of the tools pictured are those I made to suit the purpose because I couldn't find what I wanted commercially made. The round scrapers are Jerry Fisher from Brownells. The guide pins and hand screws you can either make if you have a lathe or Brownells stocks them. I have tried many different marking compounds and settled on Jerrows Inletting Black or Gold, depending on the coloring of the wood and which shows up better. It can be messy stuff, but it sure leaves a good mark you can see. I have that full size straight chisel because it is 7/8" wide and works good on the walls of the magazine inletting.

Thank you so much! That's all great information.

Here's a picture of my plank... Not a blank yet!! It's 2.5x7x36. I got it from a local lumber store... kiln dried and $60. Not bad, I think! I could have chosen a piece for the same price with much more figure, but wasn't sure how to work with the wild grain patterns.

I wanted to make something with a nice high comb and lines very much like weatherbys. I love their stocks. Basically a clone of theirs but with a touch more curl leading to the grip cap.

I was hoping I could get two stocks from this piece, but if the strength of the grip would be compromised too much by the direction of the grain, I'd be fine with just doing one stock from it.

I realize there's a bit of sapwood on the corners of one side, but read that doesn't matter for strength; it's mainly an aesthetics issue. I wish I could keep some of that color variation in the final stock!

 

[shortgrass]

Thank you so much! That's all great information.

Here's a picture of my plank... Not a blank yet!! It's 2.5x7x36. I got it from a local lumber store... kiln dried and $60. Not bad, I think! I could have chosen a piece for the same price with much more figure, but wasn't sure how to work with the wild grain patterns.

I wanted to make something with a nice high comb and lines very much like weatherbys. I love their stocks. Basically a clone of theirs but with a touch more curl leading to the grip cap.

I was hoping I could get two stocks from this piece, but if the strength of the grip would be compromised too much by the direction of the grain, I'd be fine with just doing one stock from it.

I realize there's a bit of sapwood on the corners of one side, but read that doesn't matter for strength; it's mainly an aesthetics issue. I wish I could keep some of that color variation in the final stock!

Do yourself a favor, spend a bit and buy yourself a stock blank. It doesn't have to cost thousands and be "exibition grade". But wood that is sold as 'stock wood'by reputable suppliers is aged. It may be kiln dried, but it has been cut and dried for several years. Time allows the blank to stabilized and quit moving. Kiln dried belongs at the lumber yard. I have blanks in my shop that have been in the rafters for 10+ years. I know they will be stable and not warp when I start turning into stock. Nothing could be as heart breaking as to put 50 or more hours into a stock and have the wood move due to stress relief. Stock wood doesn't come from the lumber yard............