Bolt Sticks

Primary extraction is my guess especially if its a RR action.
Some people say a body die needs to be used (can't remember the name) to get sized down by the belt I have never experienced it.
If primary extraction is the issue i would tackle that first. I'm surprised your smith didn't recommend taking

Primary extraction is my guess especially if its a RR action.
Some people say a body die needs to be used (can't remember the name) to get sized down by the belt I have never experienced it.
If primary extraction is the issue i would tackle that first. I'm surprised your smith didn't recommend taking a look at that
Larry Willis collet die for belted magnums the one 7mm rem mag will fit several belted magnums Johnny's reloading did a segment on it on YouTube
 
Sounds like a perfect time to test for bullet weld.....all kinds of possible over pressure test....
Has the barrel been scoped..how clean is it...after 30 years how much wear in the throat....is 'back pressure' from worn out throat allowing gases to impact carbon around the neck?......
I'd like to see pics.....nothing muddy...just pics of the barrels chamber and throat...maybe a couple of the grooves after 30 years of service......
 
You dont " need " another bolt then you will run into headspace issues. Google 700 Rem RR action primary extraction issues there will be a host of threads on it and options.
One thing you can do is with the bolt closed measure with feeler guages between the back of the action and bolt handle if its an RR probably gonna be .050+ wich is about .040 to much.
Theres even probably YouTube videos out there explaining it if your into that.
Its all about repositioning the bolt handle on the extraction cam which also may not be right. Just repositioning the handle will help.
Can't be an RR serial number as he stated he has owned it for 30+ years.
 
The bolt on my Rem 700 7mm Mag sticks and takes a lot to eject cartridge after firing. I cleaned the chamber, and it helps, which tells me that was at least some of if not the problem. The gunsmith I brought it too said he could find nothing, and the bolt appears to be wearing evenly. Any ideas on how to resolve or identify to cause of the problem. Bolt picture attached. Any other ideas besides cleaning? Don't have another long action bolt lying around.
I had a factory box of ammo hang up 4 rounds not in any order. I had to use a 2x4 on the bolt handle. I got threw the box, but I used a remote trigger and lead slead to fire them. Now I have 300 cleaned and trimmed cases to reload. Done with factory. Less 22 of course.
 
I have seen this with belted magnums on Remingtons, CA's that use R700 actions, and Bergara B14's all after they get a little warm. I think it is just a design flaw in that system.
 
Thanks for all your replies. I really do not want to get rid of this firearm as I just killed a whitetail buck at 297 yards this season and have harvested two moose, over a dozen elk and many deer over the seasons I have had this rifle. It is very good at filling the freezer and I have a lot of confidence in its accuracy. That said, if this a safety issue instead of just something that renders the firearm a single shot or slow second shot due to whatever, then I will retire the rifle or work hard on repair. I guess I am saying I am okay with the bolt working hard as long as it works and is not a safety concern. Is this generally speaking a safety issue?

BTW I recall something about my receiver lug needing and given a washer. The bolt jams solid with Rem ammo, not so much with other brands, I am using Federal now. Does not jam immediately after cleaning, but the bolt works hard again after shooting anywhere for 6 to over dozen rounds at the range.
 
Does not jam immediately after cleaning, but the bolt works hard again after shooting anywhere for 6 to over dozen rounds at the range.

Classic sign of carbon ring IMO.....You clean it, it takes the "top layer" off and in a few rounds it's built back up and pressures/velocities are up. Creating hard extraction.

Find someone with a bore scope or purchase a Teslong for about $75ish.
 
I think it needs to be mechanically broken down into pieces...each and every piece inspected to find your culprit........if you can't/won't do that then you are leading yourself or another into a dangerous situation..
What if something happens to you today..you die..will one of your kids grab that rifle and accidently fire off a round...maybe thru a wall...and someone else standing on the other side of that wall dies........of course you wouldn't know......but there's always a chance.....
I had a malfunction with my hunting rifle a week or so ago....i was out of town hunting....but I pulled the rifle apart as far as I needed to to figure out the problem.....then shot my buck...
Faith in the mechanics of the rifle...
Or cut it up in pieces....
 
Assuming that this happens with different brands of factory ammo; I'd be inclined to plug the muzzle and fill the bore with carbon solvent, maybe CLR. I left a heavily fouled brake in CLR overnight and the carbon floated off with the slightest touch of a Q-tip. CLR is said to remove bluing and/or paint so you would have to be careful if that's what you selected. I use BoreTech carbon remover for general cleaning in my rifles.
 
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