bolt knob hits scope

The idea being, heat it fast and do the bending. Using a lessor gas it will take longer to 'turn it red' where it will bend effortlessly. The longer heat is applied, the further the heat travels in the material being heated. MAPP and oxy may get hot enough, but it may take longer to get it hot enough to bend easily.
Just curious, I know the MAP does get hotter and I agree get the spot you need instead of it traveling
 
Strip the bolt completely. Wrap a wet rag around the body of the bolt. Put it in a vise with protection on the jaws. Heat with ox- acetylene torch hot and fast but do not melt the metal. ( you want the heat only where the bend will be bent). Heat a red ring all the way around the bolt. Slide a pipe onto the bolt and bend when it is red hot. Allow it to cool slowly.
 
Yep! That's a Mauser bolt. Heat and bend. Remove the firing pin assembly. Remove the extractor, too. A good fitting heat sink is nice to have, and as I mentioned, wrap the locking lug end in wet rag. Takes oxy/acetylene to make enough heat, propane/oxy might do it, but I don't know. A propane 'plumbers torch' won't make enough heat.
I would definitely use oxy-acetylene. It will heat up a localised area much quicker. Get the bolt handle up to temp quickly, bend then cool as quickly as possible but I would suggest not quench as you don't want to cause embrittlement. A propane torch would work but by the time the handle was up to working temperature, more heat will have transferred to the areas you don't want it to go.
 
You really need jig and heat sink to do the job right. If the spreads to the bolt especially the lugs, you could ruin it and it would actually be dangerous.
 
I've done some nice looking work with an angle head die grinder to get clearance on bolt.handles if there's enough meat on the bolt handle to begin with...Start with a course sanding disk and work your way down to a brown pad disk and lastly a green pad disk. I would definitely practice on something else if you haven't done it before.
 
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