Bolt Difficulty after Firing!

I tried dry firing a snapcap...and YES the bolt IS difficult to open
It's not my rifle, been working up a load for it for the past several weeks

What could it be??

I don't know it it always did that? Could I have done something to it to make the bolt difficult to open, by hand loading for it??

I've never looked at a S&W rifle so I don't know anything about them. My guess is, the cocking mechanism is the issue not the load. It could be something worn or something as simple as needing lubed. Is it a 60° or a 90° bolt?

As for your load, I think you are at the point of too little density with 58 gr of IMR4831. A general rule is to not go below 80% of the case volume. I think H1000 powder will give you the best results with that bullet.
 
Load...
Barnes 150 gr. TTSX
IMR 4831 - 58 gr.
Primer - CCI Magnum LR

What do you think?
It's sort of hard to explain...after firing, the bolt is sort of stuck, once you "break it loose" you can immediately re-chamber the empty cartridge with no difficulty

Have you tried letting it sit for 3-5 minutes before opening the bolt?

Strike that. Try tapping gently forward on the bolt handle. You may have a burr or other miss aligned surface that only manifests when the bolt is forced back.
 
At this point I don't believe it's a loading issue at all...

I have tried opening the bolt after dry firing it against a snap cap...and it's difficult to open the bolt!

Have I galled the lugs...Not really sure what that means? I haven't used lug grease. Didn't even know there was such a thing.

Have I ruined this rifle??
 
At this point I don't believe it's a loading issue at all...

I have tried opening the bolt after dry firing it against a snap cap...and it's difficult to open the bolt!

Have I galled the lugs...Not really sure what that means? I haven't used lug grease. Didn't even know there was such a thing.

Have I ruined this rifle??

Are the contact surfaces of the lugs rough or smooth?
 
the contact surfaces on the bolt look to be smooth

I can see somewhat into the receiver w a flashlight..I think I see some rust??
 

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The contact surface is the back of the lugs. They are not shown in those pictures.
 
I tried dry firing a snapcap...and YES the bolt IS difficult to open
It's not my rifle, been working up a load for it for the past several weeks

What could it be??

I don't know it it always did that? Could I have done something to it to make the bolt difficult to open, by hand loading for it??

You're either dealign with a chamber, headspace, or lug problem.
 
Here are the pic, now.
What to do? This problem has just arisen.

Hoping I don't need to buy another rifle.
 

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This is hopefully a really stupid question but....

Your bolt, once you've fired it, is likely cocking upon lifting the bolt. This will cause some resistance in comparison to if you've just chambered a snap cap then extracted it without dropping the firing pin. This is not the issue you're describing?

Can you replicate the same difference with closing the bolt on an empty chamber, dry firing, opening the bolt. Is that different than when firing live rounds and/or once fired empty brass?

I would detail strip, clean, and relube your bolt.
 
Can't really get a good close up pic...
I've been having a problem with the FL Sizing for this rifle, and couldn't get the cartridges to chamber after FL Sizing

Finally, after using a Hornady Headspare Compatator tool, I was able to measure the fire formed brass and was able to adjust the Sizing to .003 bump

Thant said..I fired the last batch a found that the bolt now has difficulty opening with no cartridge in the chamber (dry firing on a snap cap)

Is this a galling situation? How to I remedy? It's a buddy's rifle, perhaps a smith is required here?

HELP!..In panic mode now. Just trying to make the rifle shoot better, and maybe I've mucked it up.
 
If it's galling you'll see clear indications on the rear of the lugs; material transfer (one direction or another) will be present. I don't think it's galling based upon what you've described, but I've been wrong before. You should slow down and check your brass after FL sizing but before loading. If you can't chamber it, you've got an issue and should reassess.
 
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