Binocular question

this may sound like dumb question,but here goes for some of you guys that use bingos a lot. Have a set of 10 x42 Binos and just trying to figure out if mine are ok compared to others, there not expensive but don't have anything to compare them too.heres the question how far can you expect to tell if a white tail has horns with a 10x42. Not talking $2000 binos basically on lower end binoculars and just talking about being able to tell if has horns. 300,500,700yds what is reasonable? Thanks for any input.
The big issue is being able to see and assess antlers at dawn and dusk, as this is when you are most likely to see a buck. Aside from quality of optics (which is directly related to cost), the most important thing is objective diameter. So I would recommend you look for 50 mm objectives, and buy the best quality glass your budget allows. They should last many years, so splurging a little will pay back in satisfaction.
Follow up question: are you hunting where a 500+ yard sighting is even possible?
 
The big issue is being able to see and assess antlers at dawn and dusk, as this is when you are most likely to see a buck. Aside from quality of optics (which is directly related to cost), the most important thing is objective diameter. So I would recommend you look for 50 mm objectives, and buy the best quality glass your budget allows. They should last many years, so splurging a little will pay back in satisfaction.
Follow up question: are you hunting where a 500+ yard sighting is even possible?
I understand that quality binoculars will give more detail and that relates to $. Was just wondering how other people's lower end binoculars performed.i hunt in northeast from stands where we can get some sightings from 500yds across a field,however we won't be taking any shots over 200yd because we can only hunt with muzzleloader n shotgun(slug gun)but nice to see what the deer is.sounds like 500yds is a stretch for lower end binoculars
 
Even the lower priced binos will have more light gathering in low light conditions with the 50mm objective. Increased magnification will allow better assessment of the number of tines and mass, especially at the longer distances. I find that 10x50 is my optimal blend of magnification and light gathering for the whitetail hunting I do in Oklahoma and Texas. Greater than 10x magnification results in too narrow of field at distances under 200 yards.
As other respondors have so correctly pointed out, the greatest benefit of the most expensive makes is lack of eyestrain with prolonged glassing.
 
The big issue is being able to see and assess antlers at dawn and dusk, as this is when you are most likely to see a buck. Aside from quality of optics (which is directly related to cost), the most important thing is objective diameter. So I would recommend you look for 50 mm objectives, and buy the best quality glass your budget allows. They should last many years, so splurging a little will pay back in satisfaction.
Follow up question: are you hunting where a 500+ yard sighting is even possible?

50mm adds ALOT of bulk. i can see better than my eyes can with my 8x30CL. i constantly watch deer out to 300yds with them that in absolutely no way i can see with my eyes and they are 30mm obj.

at dark your pupils are @2mm
exit pupil math:
50mm x 10x =5
40mm x 10x =4
30mm x 8= 3.75 plenty of power for a binocular for scanning your hunting area

50mm usually end up staying at home or the car in my opinion as i have them too.

8x is plenty power for 200yds... most of my shooting whitetails are under 500 and thats what i been happy with since they came out with them.
like what i saw above 10x or 12x should be on a mount aka tripod, window mount etc. or used for farther than 500yds.
Quality of optics is the key...what your eyes like. what you can see with.
 
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8x32 Cl are Swarovski and they are the cats meow for 800-900 bucks!

zeiss . leupold gold ring , bushnell @ $400 is what i used to use,

PS sorry if the horn thing offended you. they truely are antlers lol.

also i shot 3 pronghorns, and they are the horn exception i forgot about. one at 855yds and the others 655yds with 6.5x47L and going again next year with the mighty 300NM for 1k plus with the 8x30Cl in tow. they are awesome!!!
 
8x32 Cl are Swarovski and they are the cats meow for 800-900 bucks!

zeiss . leupold gold ring , bushnell @ $400 is what i used to use,

PS sorry if the horn thing offended you. they truely are antlers lol.

also i shot 3 pronghorns, and they are the horn exception i forgot about. one at 855yds and the others 655yds with 6.5x47L and going again next year with the mighty 300NM for 1k plus with the 8x30Cl in tow. they are awesome!!!
No offense taken,they'll always be horns around here even though their technically antlers
 
Even the lower priced binos will have more light gathering in low light conditions with the 50mm objective. Increased magnification will allow better assessment of the number of tines and mass, especially at the longer distances. I find that 10x50 is my optimal blend of magnification and light gathering for the whitetail hunting I do in Oklahoma and Texas. Greater than 10x magnification results in too narrow of field at distances under 200 yards.
As other respondors have so correctly pointed out, the greatest benefit of the most expensive makes is lack of eyestrain with prolonged glassing.
Thanks for info. We don't glass for hours on end around here most of our hunting is out of stands , couple hrs in morning n couple hrs in evening. I've heard lower end binoculars can cause eye strain but like I say we don't glass that much just to look at something across field to see what it is.
 
I am constantly amazed what a guide in Africa can see through eight power binoculars. All things equal, train yourself with long use and you will see the most game.
 
I live in Wisconsin with similar terrain as I believe you are talking. I played the $200-$400 binocular gig for years (38 now). About 10 years ago I got sick of not being able to see deer or tell anything about them. I bought my first pair of Swarovski 10x32 EL's. They were awesome. I think got a pair of 8x32 EL's and they are even better for light gathering and I can count points (not stickers) our to 800 yards (even on velvet deer). We then started hunting out west and I got a pair of Swarovski 15x56's on a Slik 624 carbon tripod last year and they are amazing out to 1.5-2 miles.

Trust me, I know they are expensive, but Swarovski will be the best money you have ever spend. You'll never question if you have the best. You spend more on trying different price point Binos trying to get what you want that the Swarovski won't cost you more than you're going to spend anyway.

Trust me!

Steve
 
I hunt a lot of brush....best power inside the brush...6...
However...i pack my Leupold 10-17 switchpower most of the time...brush here in idaho is not the same as Oregon....
Spotted a whitetail last season at over 1200 yards with the naked eye..put up the binos on 10x and could easily tell he was a brute...and body lenght was there also....didnt need to try to count points at that time....grabbed the rifle and pack and was basically hightailing it up the logging road to try for a shot.....wellthe buck was over 1200 from the main road...bjt about a 2 mile hike up just to get within 900 yards across the canyon....never did get to see him again for a shot.......
I have still...a pair of 10x50 Redfield....30 years old...still as clear and sharp as day i bought them......counted no points on a huge bull elk at 300 yards...
He could touch his butt wih the tips....no branches....never got a shot at him either.....buddy was hunting same area during rifle season and saw him at 25 yards.....60" main beam....no branches......'he forgot to shoot'.....
 
For the guys that ware glasses, do you use your binoculars with glasses on or take them off. Mine have adjustable eye cups but feel like I can see better with glasses off and eye cups adjusted out.
 
when i am focused on anything and hand my wife the binoculars (she wears glasses) all she does is turn the cups in. With her glasses on.
 
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