Better glass or a bigger objective?

Ycreek

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Jan 12, 2013
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48
Location
West Tennessee
I'm about to scope a 12GA Browning A-Bolt with a Leupold VX-Something. Over the years I've owned many scopes in the $500-$750 dollar range from many different manufacturers but I keep coming back to Leupold. I'm not knocking any manufacturer. I just think that my eye "sees" better out of my Leupolds than my other scopes. The main thing I'm looking for in my upcoming purchase is low light performance. I'm looking at the VX-6 but it's objective size is limited. The VX-3 line has bigger objective options and the VX-3L line(even if it's ugly) has an objective up to 56mm. Will the better glass in the VX-6 do a better job for me in the light transmission department than a larger objective in the inferior VX-3 line? I mean, it's a slug gun so all out clarity isn't as important to me as catching that really late evening buck. Thank yall for any help
 
vx-3 glass is in no way inferior. I would either buy buy a vx-6 3-18 or a vx-3 4.5-14. You will be hard pressed to find better glass for the money. Both vx-3 and vx-6 glass is excellent. I think if you were more interesed in higher end glass go with a swarovski, i dont think you will see much difference in low light preformance from a vx-6 to vx-3. Step up to swaro z6 and there will be a noticble difference. But your wallet will also see it.
 
Thanks for that. I own three VX-3s and I love them. I've just never compared them to a VX-6. Great info. I appreciate it.
 
I paid $425 for my monarch 2.5-10 and I can see deer plainly in the scope that with naked eye" I think there may be a deer there". I have shot deer in my field that has tall weedy cover, very hard to see deer in low light,and couldn't see them run. It does not have oversized objective but seems to work real well. It definitly could be a little clearer at ranges over 350 yard but its good enough to shoot way over that. It may be a little better than Luepold, I thought so when I bought it,
 
I'd always opt for better glass first. Bigger objectives are better only if the glass is top line already.
 
Thank yall for the advice. I'm going to make the decision this week and not look back. Again, I really appreciate the help.
 
You will be very hard pressed to get something better than a used Bushnell 4200 with 40mm objective for the money. Mine matched my Swarovski z5 in every test; except when using the subjective idea, which seems brighter? They lasted about the same amount of time in low light and needed the same setting to show the same detail on determining what something is at long range.
 
I have 3 rules of thumb on scopes, bino's and spotters... Not in any particular order either....

*Best glass I can afford
*Biggest Objective diameter and tube diameter I can afford
*Try not to pay more for the optics than the rifle cost.....

I have a hard time achieving the last one. I usually pay more for optics than a rifle.....:D

Just bought a pair of Swaro's and my wife about crapped her drawers.:)
 
I have 3 rules of thumb on scopes, bino's and spotters... Not in any particular order either....

*Best glass I can afford
*Biggest Objective diameter and tube diameter I can afford
*Try not to pay more for the optics than the rifle cost.....

I have a hard time achieving the last one. I usually pay more for optics than a rifle.....:D

Just bought a pair of Swaro's and my wife about crapped her drawers.:)

Don't understand the last one. I purchase a scope for what I want and get a rifle to go with it.
 
I most times buy the stick and then get the optics......

I've limited my stick buying, handguns too. No more room. Besides, you can only use one at a time....
 
Better glass will trump bigger bells on scopes any day.

However, light transmission in scopes does have something to do with the obj diameter.

The human eye pupil can dialate to about 4.2mm in low light. When light passes through any glass the transmitted light will come through in a ratio of Obj diam/pwr. That is why the 10x42 binos are so popular 42mm/10x=4.2mm. So the bino's are chunking as much light through as your eye can take.

So for your case consider your furthest shot at last light, what power on your scope you feel comfortable shooting that far with, and then size the bell on your scope accordingly if need be. I'd say for shotgun range you'd be 200 or less which with practice you could accomplish with 3-4 power easily so any scope on the market should work.

A little long winded I know. Just thought someone out there might like to know how all that works.
 
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