Best Reloading Manual And Why?

[Pointman]

I have been in the habit of using the manual for the projectile I'm using, Sierra, Berger, etc. I use the Lyman manuals, especially they cast bullet on as I use hard cast lead in most of my handguns. If I'm running out of room for the older ones, I take the page for the calibers and loads I have settled on for the weapon I'm loading for and keep them in a separate binder.

 

[436]

Here are a few pics from the "Speer #6 Manual" from 1963 including a page by "George C. Nonte" on case forming, And another from "Jack O' Connor" Explaining how to read pressure signs. I have noticed most of the younger reloaders all use internet load data, It would do them well to read the whole book, Especially the section on reading pressure by using the fired primer as a gauge. I see a lot of threads where a guy is asking why his bolt is experiencing "Hard Lift" etc! And he quotes that other guy's are using so many grains and aren't getting pressure? Anyway, Many guy's that post hot loads are either on the edge of pressure or are getting pressure, I have never understood wanting to push it that hard!

I think I have all but two of the early Speer manuals, they are great reference manuals, they were before all the legal minds in the companies started their vicarious liability stuff and started backing the loads down, thinking... they're keeping the children from hurting themselves. Cheers

 

[Frank in the Laurels]

..a bit expensive but the Sierra is pretty hard to beat...

 

[Teri Anne]

Hello,

I have been reloading for well over 30 years and I have about 20 or more loading manuals, But the newest one I had until last year was the Speer #13, Anyway I just bought last years Hornady manual but I would like to buy another one or two, I would like to hear from you guy's which manual is the best choice and why you think so? Thanks HK

Also, The reason I have manuals that I keep dating back to the 60's, Is because I mess with a lot of obsolete calibers that are no longer published, So hang on to those old manuals, Don't throw them away there's a lot of good info in them.

I have a lot of old reloading manuals too. I much prefer the ones that are put out by the bullet manufacturers rather than the powder manufacturers. This is simply because the bullet manufacturers list all the powders they test from all the manufacturers and publish the ones that work best with their bullets. Powder manufacturers only list the powders they manufacture. The only manuals that I actually buy anymore are the Nosler manuals, simply because I prefer Nosler bullets, and the one caliber manuals that list a bunch of bullets and powders. I have them for .223, 308, 30-06 and 300WM and compare them to the other data I have. One of these days I need to get one for the .270 Anytime I need anything else I look online as everyone has their reloading manuals on line these days.

 

[Mark37082]

I understand you can get most of the info online these days, but I still find myself going to the hard copy first. For the veteran experienced reloaders online works fine. For anyone just getting into reloading get at least a couple of manuals and read them cover to cover. Still waiting on Hammer to put out a manual or official load data.

 

[cape cove]

I have always leaned towards the Lyman manuals. Since they don't sell bullets, primers, etc I find they use a good selection of components in their manual to develop their loads and are not bias to any one company. JMO

 

[lyle2231]

Hello Lyle, I was able to locate the info you needed in my old Modern Reloading by RICHARD LEE He lists a starting Charge of 9.1 gns of Win 571 and a max charge of 10.2, I have attached a pic, Take care my friend, HK

EDIT: this was meant to be a PM, Brain Fog or was it a Fart? Can't remember!

Welcome to the OFC!
Thanks buddy!

 

[436]

I understand you can get most of the info online these days, but I still find myself going to the hard copy first. For the veteran experienced reloaders online works fine. For anyone just getting into reloading get at least a couple of manuals and read them cover to cover. Still waiting on Hammer to put out a manual or official load data.

Funny... back in the day before online, we'd take maybe five of the best reloading manuals and find the cartridge we wanted in each book, write the grains we wanted, for the bullet weight we were going to use, write down the velocity from each, add up all the grain (charge) then divide by five to get the charge we wanted. Same with the velocity, and you be surprised how close the velocity would come to the divided by five number. I found some fabulous loads doing it that way. None were overpressure even at the max velocity loads were used. Kinda makes you scratch your head as to what's going on today. Cheers

 

[Citified]

Funny, I did the same thing.

 

[txma]

Hello,

I have been reloading for well over 30 years and I have about 20 or more loading manuals, But the newest one I had until last year was the Speer #13, Anyway I just bought last years Hornady manual but I would like to buy another one or two, I would like to hear from you guy's which manual is the best choice and why you think so? Thanks HK

Also, The reason I have manuals that I keep dating back to the 60's, Is because I mess with a lot of obsolete calibers that are no longer published, So hang on to those old manuals, Don't throw them away there's a lot of good info in them.

I like the Lyman manual. It's kinda like having several manuals in one.

 

[Mike Matteson]

I have manual from the early 60's Started reloading in 1962. I have several Sierra manual from there first one to the latest. I have speer, Hornady, Noslers, Lyman, and a few others. I don't throw anyway either.
Out of all of them I take the Sierra Manuals. They generally cover more calibers. Hell look at there binder and compare to the others. It's about 3 times thicker. They all seem to differ on somewhat. One of the caliber I reload for is a 220 swift. It was interesting in load for the 220 and 22/250. After awhile they had the 22/250 faster than the 220 swift. That won't happen and the reason for the 22/250 was because the 220 swift was a barrel burner. With all the new or faster twist barrels out there, you have to really watch what the manuals are saying about twist rates. I came across that on the 220 swift in the last Sierra manual.

 

[K.E.C. Darkside]

I couldn't really say, sometimes the oldest of my manuals turns up some of the best data, and other times the newest has the most recent on the new cartridges, so with that said; I'll go with Sierra and Lee, yes the others are great, and many of them a little more technical, but... it's just my pick for right now... I do have the new Western Powder manual on the way, who knows it may turn up something I've never seen. A couple of pic's, there are more, many more. Just my 0.2 Cheers

View attachment 399587View attachment 399588

By God, my book shelf looks similar, but much prettier. I like books also and yes the internet is nice to. The history and articles in these books are priceless.

 

[Harry Knutz]

I have manual from the early 60's Started reloading in 1962. I have several Sierra manual from there first one to the latest. I have speer, Hornady, Noslers, Lyman, and a few others. I don't throw anyway either.
Out of all of them I take the Sierra Manuals. They generally cover more calibers. Hell look at there binder and compare to the others. It's about 3 times thicker. They all seem to differ on somewhat. One of the caliber I reload for is a 220 swift. It was interesting in load for the 220 and 22/250. After awhile they had the 22/250 faster than the 220 swift. That won't happen and the reason for the 22/250 was because the 220 swift was a barrel burner. With all the new or faster twist barrels out there, you have to really watch what the manuals are saying about twist rates. I came across that on the 220 swift in the last Sierra manual.

Yeah that's one thing about the newest Hornady manual I have, They put all of the cartridges in their perceived speed and power in somewhat of an order, And they put their creedmoors and PRC's a little ahead of other cartridges that I know are more powerful and faster, The 6.5x55 comes to mind, If you look at the LEE manual the Swede outperforms the 6.5 creedmoor, If you look in the new Hornady manual the Swede looks pathetic, They place the .260 Rem behind the creed too.

 

[K.E.C. Darkside]

Funny, I did the same thing.

I did also, but I still do it. Old habits are hard to break. All bullet manufacturers books are my favorite, with Lee and Lyman right there.