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Best Controlled Feed Action???

Lock time is MOST important in of hand dangerous shooting NOT BR so it is something to consider, strong springs with normal weight firing pin not lightened will give you the most consistent light in the most varying conditions.
 
Unlike all the modern "wonder stuff" you will NEVER find a Rigby Mauser that failed when the chips were down.
Fast lock time requires stronger springs and lighter strikers. Both invitations for misfires.

Bench rest a'int hunting. No little paper target ever charged a shooter and stomped into bloody mush. Nor do they have to shoot in a misty rain fast turning into ice.

The analogy is like comparing Mom going to the grocery store in her SUV vs the Monte Carlo rally.

I'm embarrassed for you as it's clear you have little if anything to offer that's not intended to stir up hate.
PS only a guy that would invest 4500$ in a 338 rum on a Sa would beat his chest about technology pre 1940 as where things stopped progressing. Again embarrassing but everyone sees you for what you are.
 
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Lock time is MOST important in of hand dangerous shooting NOT BR so it is something to consider, strong springs with normal weight firing pin not lightened will give you the most consistent light in the most varying conditions.

So I guess we should all be shooting savages?
 

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I have an original Ruger Safari LARGE mauser action for my 416 Rigby. It has only fired at serious critters that fall into the kill/be killed category. I also have some pre-war Mausers. Bolt movement and trigger are easily superior in the modern rifle. Also I like the safety operation better in the newer firearm as it is much faster in a real jam. The fellow below said he did not like the new rifle one bit.

Lion.jpg
 
I have an original Ruger Safari LARGE mauser action for my 416 Rigby. It has only fired at serious critters that fall into the kill/be killed category. I also have some pre-war Mausers. Bolt movement and trigger are easily superior in the modern rifle. Also I like the safety operation better in the newer firearm as it is much faster in a real jam. The fellow below said he did not like the new rifle one bit.

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Sir that is a very impressive mount, it makes me smile and hope I get to walk in your shoes some day. Thank you very much for sharing.
 
I'm embarrassed for you as it's clear you have little if anything to offer that's not intended to stir up hate.
PS only a guy that would invest 4500$ in a 338 rum on a Sa would beat his chest about technology pre 1940 as where things stopped progressing. Again embarrassing but everyone sees you for what you are.

Hate, hate ???? The only people I see that HATE are the morons rioting in blue cities where the elected officials are all wimps or fellow travelers.

Sorry if the facts cause you to HATE. Like Sgt Friday, I deal in facts, not irrational emotion.
 
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How many true CF actions are on your list ?

I believe that was the question.

May I suggest you read this and edit your list ?



I don't need to read that list. The point of my list was to illustrate lock time difference btw actions and that best case scenario you save ~1.5 milliseconds. If I had to wager a guess the fastest lock time ona rifle that could be considered any type of CRF would be a Sako 85. Again I don't think a 4.5 ms lock time on a 98 is gonna be that detrimental to my shooting compared to a 1-2.5 sec locktime in most modern rifles. I have all pre-64 style model 70's and I've never once thought I needed a lighter FP or any of the like to tighten up my groups.
 
CRF action need far more tuning to get them to properly feed, especially if you want it to feed equally well feeding slow vs fast, many will run in a heavy handed way but slow are a mess and vis versa.
I've owned multiple Mauser type action that if you didn't run it just right all the rounds would ratchet out on your boots when you pulled the bolt back.
I've never seen a feed quality difference between a push or a CRF, I've had both do equally stupid stuff and need tuning, I am a fan of tossing one round in and closing the bolt on it without breaking eye contact with your target.
I really like what can be done with the Montana 1999 and the post war Wins, I have pre wars and rebarrel them often but you can do a little more with the newer ones when it comes to cartridge length and having them feed smooth without feeling like you have to slap and rack.
 
CRF action need far more tuning to get them to properly feed, especially if you want it to feed equally well feeding slow vs fast, many will run in a heavy handed way but slow are a mess and vis versa.
I've owned multiple Mauser type action that if you didn't run it just right all the rounds would ratchet out on your boots when you pulled the bolt back.
I've never seen a feed quality difference between a push or a CRF, I've had both do equally stupid stuff and need tuning, I am a fan of tossing one round in and closing the bolt on it without breaking eye contact with your target.
I really like what can be done with the Montana 1999 and the post war Wins, I have pre wars and rebarrel them often but you can do a little more with the newer ones when it comes to cartridge length and having them feed smooth without feeling like you have to slap and rack.

My extreme weather model 70 30-06 feeds ALMOST as smooth as a Tikka from CTR mags if you can believe that.
 
You Guys , all of you poking fun at each other. I'll stick with my Winchester pre 64 mod 70's (not post 64) and my 6.5 Swedes ! I'll stick with the classics at least the ones i can afford, i sure would love a real high end built on a pre war Mauser , wouldnt all of you?
 
Can't argue with any of the above except the idea that all new CRF actions are inferior. I have 2 Bighorn SR 3's which work very well and I don't think you will find many people with any complaints about them.
 
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