For what its worth, I have a Tikka T3 in the 222 caliber in what i understand was the original wood stock that shoots clover leafs when i do my part. Just lucky I guess.
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Bedding the Action on a Tikka T3X
- Thread starter Tommo64
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WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
I put a B&C on my Tikka. Cleaned up the channel a little. I like it a lot. It's a T3 Lite.
Last edited:
I ll bring a bit of water to the mill with my little experience of tikkas with the plastic stock. A few facts first:
The tikka rifle is probably one of the most consistent rifle in term of action dimensions , tolerances and has the straightest barrels of the ( mass produced) industry . The tikka synthetic stock is also very well moulded and you almost never see the barrel channel drifting to one side of the barrel more than the other.
The tikka stock has been designed with those little tabs at the beginning of the barrel channel to come in contact with the beginning of the barrel taper . If they had no role to play they simply would not be there!
The first thing you are going to notice when taking a brand new tikka out of the box is that the torque on the action screws is not high at all.usually around 28 to 30 inch pounds. You can use a marker pen and make a marking line on each screw head and the stock as a reference, undo the screws and then screw them back with a torque driver . Start at 20 inch pounds and then increase progressively the weight of your torque driver till you come to the original lines you drew precedently and you will be able to verify that.
One of the first mistakes that is done when taking a tikka action appart from the stock is to not re engage properly the action in the bottom recoil lug and the second mistake is to overtorque the action screws in the stock and therefore crushing the plastic bedding out of shape and permanently deforming it and ruining it.This also put upward pressure on the barrel with the tabs in the stock I was talking about earlier on.Often leading to not great accuracy.
If you own one of those stock that has already been crushed then yes conventional glass bedding is the cure. Replacing the stock with an after market one is another solution. Then in either case a stronger torquing of the screws will be fine.
But if you own a new tikka in a synthetic stock, don't trust the manual that says 60 inch pounds of torque, that is way too much!
You can apply a bit of blue loctite on the action screws before torquing them if you fear that they might come undone. Also while your action is out of the stock you can adjust the trigger weight or replaced its spring by a lighter one and apply a small amount of grease on the recoil lug to stop it rusting ( or replace it with an aftermarket stainless steel one).
Clean your barrel properly before shooting the first few rounds through it and you will see that most tikkas shoot extremely well just like that.
Ps: I have less credentials than a lot of people here, but I take appart about 5 to 10 tikkas every week and I have worked on close to 2000 over the last six years.
The tikka rifle is probably one of the most consistent rifle in term of action dimensions , tolerances and has the straightest barrels of the ( mass produced) industry . The tikka synthetic stock is also very well moulded and you almost never see the barrel channel drifting to one side of the barrel more than the other.
The tikka stock has been designed with those little tabs at the beginning of the barrel channel to come in contact with the beginning of the barrel taper . If they had no role to play they simply would not be there!
The first thing you are going to notice when taking a brand new tikka out of the box is that the torque on the action screws is not high at all.usually around 28 to 30 inch pounds. You can use a marker pen and make a marking line on each screw head and the stock as a reference, undo the screws and then screw them back with a torque driver . Start at 20 inch pounds and then increase progressively the weight of your torque driver till you come to the original lines you drew precedently and you will be able to verify that.
One of the first mistakes that is done when taking a tikka action appart from the stock is to not re engage properly the action in the bottom recoil lug and the second mistake is to overtorque the action screws in the stock and therefore crushing the plastic bedding out of shape and permanently deforming it and ruining it.This also put upward pressure on the barrel with the tabs in the stock I was talking about earlier on.Often leading to not great accuracy.
If you own one of those stock that has already been crushed then yes conventional glass bedding is the cure. Replacing the stock with an after market one is another solution. Then in either case a stronger torquing of the screws will be fine.
But if you own a new tikka in a synthetic stock, don't trust the manual that says 60 inch pounds of torque, that is way too much!
You can apply a bit of blue loctite on the action screws before torquing them if you fear that they might come undone. Also while your action is out of the stock you can adjust the trigger weight or replaced its spring by a lighter one and apply a small amount of grease on the recoil lug to stop it rusting ( or replace it with an aftermarket stainless steel one).
Clean your barrel properly before shooting the first few rounds through it and you will see that most tikkas shoot extremely well just like that.
Ps: I have less credentials than a lot of people here, but I take appart about 5 to 10 tikkas every week and I have worked on close to 2000 over the last six years.
Thanks for the advice. The manual states a max torque of 44 inch pounds for the plastic stocks, so that is what I re-torqued mine to. I haven't had chance to try it out since then to see if there is any change, one way or the other, in terms of accuracy. As for those tabs in the forestock, I have been doing some research and on another shooting forum there was a response from Sako stating that the barrels on their plastic stocked Tikka rifles are not intended to be fully free floating, hence those tabs. Give that, it would seem to be counter productive to remove them without performing some sort of action bedding.
Does the B&C stock have the full aluminum bedding block?
Why wouldn't you want the barrel free floated? Surprised to hear sako say that unless they think the plastic stock doesn't have enough support. The few I've done had the barrels floated and shot better than before.
Maybe it's to compensate for the lack of action bedding? Who knows. But yes, I would have though a free floating barrel would be desirable for best accuracy.
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
[/QUOTE]QUOTE="Tommo64, post: 1843185, member: 107976"]
Does the B&C stock have the full aluminum bedding block?
[/QUOTE]
Yes it does. Here's a link to the one of got.
Does the B&C stock have the full aluminum bedding block?
[/QUOTE]
Yes it does. Here's a link to the one of got.
Bell and Carlson: Tikka T3 Sporter Style
Bell and Carlson is a leader in synthetic stock design, technology and manufacturer of the highest quality fiberglass, aramid and graphite gun stocks available.
www.bellandcarlson.com
I have a few questions regarding the bedding process. Firstly, how much stock material did you remove from around the bedding area? Is there a minimum thickness required for the epoxy bedding compound? Or did you just roughen the area up to provide an effective 'key'? Also, how did you treat the recoil lug? Did you apply any tape to the back and sides? I am fairly confident in tackling the job but just looking for a bit of clarification regarding preparation before applying the bedding compound.I have bedded 4. I also added some reinforcement to the foreend and butt. Made a stainless steel recoil lug that was larger and bedded it into the stock. Shoots great. Tell SJ, thanks
Tensilon
Well-Known Member
Tommo.... for your review:
www.longrangehunting.com
Tens
What does this grouping mean?
I guess some details would help! It's a 30 06 tikka t3x superlite stainless barrel synthetic stock. I used a Dremel to remove extra stock material around the forearm to give it extra float. I can slide several dollar bills all the way back to the receiver without hitting anything. Strangely it...
Tens
Tommo,
I have a few questions regarding the bedding process. Firstly, how much stock material did you remove from around the bedding area?
I used a 1/2" end mill and hauled out where the old recoil lug was.
Is there a minimum thickness required for the epoxy bedding compound?
At 8k+ psi, you are getting much more support than the old material, so I shoot for .025"+. No set value in my head
Or did you just roughen the area up to provide an effective 'key'?
I do rough up most areas by drilling little holes or scuffing if it might act like an ice cube tray and just fall out or shift after curing.
Also, how did you treat the recoil lug?
I used some release on the action but left the recoil lug dry and clean
Did you apply any tape to the back and sides?
Not on a tikka. No tape needed imo. Needs every bit of it sitting in the action.
I am fairly confident in tackling the job but just looking for a bit of clarification regarding preparation before applying the bedding compound.
If I can do it, anyone can. There are always different ways, but this way works for me.
I have a few questions regarding the bedding process. Firstly, how much stock material did you remove from around the bedding area?
I used a 1/2" end mill and hauled out where the old recoil lug was.
Is there a minimum thickness required for the epoxy bedding compound?
At 8k+ psi, you are getting much more support than the old material, so I shoot for .025"+. No set value in my head
Or did you just roughen the area up to provide an effective 'key'?
I do rough up most areas by drilling little holes or scuffing if it might act like an ice cube tray and just fall out or shift after curing.
Also, how did you treat the recoil lug?
I used some release on the action but left the recoil lug dry and clean
Did you apply any tape to the back and sides?
Not on a tikka. No tape needed imo. Needs every bit of it sitting in the action.
I am fairly confident in tackling the job but just looking for a bit of clarification regarding preparation before applying the bedding compound.
If I can do it, anyone can. There are always different ways, but this way works for me.
Thanks Tens. You have pretty much answered one of my questions at least. I have also been watching some of Nathan Foster's vids too. Very knowledgeable guy.Tommo.... for your review:
What does this grouping mean?
I guess some details would help! It's a 30 06 tikka t3x superlite stainless barrel synthetic stock. I used a Dremel to remove extra stock material around the forearm to give it extra float. I can slide several dollar bills all the way back to the receiver without hitting anything. Strangely it...
Tens
Tensilon
Well-Known Member
Yea, you bet you're welcome and yes....Nathan is the shizz man. I went ahead and bought his whole book line several years ago, ebooks also. They are a great reference for me. If you ever look at his books....he used one of my string groups as an example what can happen to a left handed shooter when he doesn't hold enough forearm pressure, LOL. I was the perfect bad example. Was corresponding with him about groupings with a couple flyers and he drilled it on the head. I had never told him I shot left but he knew it from the groupings.... the man knows his stuff. I also have bedded my 2 Tikka's according to the methods in his book....the accurizing and maintenance one, and the proof is in the pudding. Good luck with your Tikka man.
Tens
Tens
Thanks, from one Sou paw to anotherYea, you bet you're welcome and yes....Nathan is the shizz man. I went ahead and bought his whole book line several years ago, ebooks also. They are a great reference for me. If you ever look at his books....he used one of my string groups as an example what can happen to a left handed shooter when he doesn't hold enough forearm pressure, LOL. I was the perfect bad example. Was corresponding with him about groupings with a couple flyers and he drilled it on the head. I had never told him I shot left but he knew it from the groupings.... the man knows his stuff. I also have bedded my 2 Tikka's according to the methods in his book....the accurizing and maintenance one, and the proof is in the pudding. Good luck with your Tikka man.
Tens
