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Bedding 2 piece bottom metal

what does it look like the last guy used , did it separate anywhere
if you go with the auto body filler id rasp / coarse grind up ruogh and use a long hair fiberglass to build it up (very thick stuff ),

this is a common long hair filler
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/us...MI1ebYgPP93wIVlBh9Ch0n_wqCEAQYASABEgKlxPD_BwE

then depending how that turns out, i might fill the insides bed everything with the acraglass
 
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You don't bed the middle screw


What I would do is pillar bed the action screws first and then bed the bottom metal. The middle screw should only be tightened hand tight and not torqued like the action screws. I simply use a wood screw or a machine screw in a threaded bushing in the stock to hold the front of the trigger guard and apply a little Lock tight to keep it from backing out.

If you attach it to the action (Like many factory rifles it will hurt accuracy)

Do the top first and then the bottom metal last.

J E CUSTOM
 
What I would do is pillar bed the action screws first and then bed the bottom metal. The middle screw should only be tightened hand tight and not torqued like the action screws. I simply use a wood screw or a machine screw in a threaded bushing in the stock to hold the front of the trigger guard and apply a little Lock tight to keep it from backing out.

If you attach it to the action (Like many factory rifles it will hurt accuracy)

Do the top first and then the bottom metal last.

J E CUSTOM

I like the idea of using a wood screw in place of the middle screw.


I got my pillars today. Hopefully I will have the time to get it bedded soon.
 
what does it look like the last guy used , did it separate anywhere
if you go with the auto body filler id rasp / coarse grind up ruogh and use a long hair fiberglass to build it up (very thick stuff ),

this is a common long hair filler
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/us...MI1ebYgPP93wIVlBh9Ch0n_wqCEAQYASABEgKlxPD_BwE

then depending how that turns out, i might fill the insides bed everything with the acraglass

It does look like the last guy used some kind of body filler and it seems to have stuck well. I think I may give that a try once i get the pillars in.
 
I sent some pictures of this stock to mcmillan. I got an email back from them today and apparently it's a pre 64 model 70 classic stock that they quit making about 10 years ago.
 
The rear piece (actual trigger guard) sits proud of the stock in front and in back in your photo in post #14, assuming that's how it always looks. If so, that's where the problem lies. I was dealing with this today with a Weatherby Mark V.

There are two options as I see it. First is to remove material to lower the trigger guard into the stock so that it becomes level. The second is to use a different trigger guard and floor plate. I found a one piece unit for my rifle that fits far better than trying the two piece.

Your previous photos it doesn't seem to sit as high, but I'm not sure why.

Good luck. I would suggest that attempting to build up the stock to match what you have will not work out that well in the end.
 
This is good advice if you can find a one piece it has many advantages, and will be easier to pillar bed.
If not, the center screw is the next best thing to fix the middle screw.

J E CUSTOM
 
The bottom metal is shimmed up in the second set of pictures to make it sit level. The magazine is high in the middle and the latch doesn't fully engage without it being shimmed.

According to mcmillan, this is a pre 64 classic pattern that has been discontinued. It has also been altered by a previous owner.

I opened up the barrel channel and got everything to fit in the stock. Now I plan to pillar bed the action, level everything up, then build the stock up around the bottom metal and bed it. Another option would be to grind the magazine box down at the rear so the trigger guard can sit lower.

I also plan on filling the spot behind the magazine box and using a wood screw to secure the front of the trigger guard. I'm open to any and all suggestions.

Do any of you have experience building up a stock like that? I'm leaning towards using a long hair fiberglass filler like DUSTY NOGGIN recommended, but am definitely open to suggestions if anyone has any experience with this.
 
You can use regular bondo to build up or fill in your wood stock. One of the old tricks for fixing small areas of rotten wood moldings (old or new) on a house is to rout out the rotted wood, and fill in and shape with regular bondo. In many cases it far outweighs ripping windows out of the opening which could impact many other things. Nonetheless Its not going anywhere, is weatherproof, and engineers have signed off on its use for the 25 years I've been in the reconstruction business.
Its perfectly durable and fine for a rifle stock.
 
I guess I could update this in case someone needs to do something similar in the future.

I ended up using a fiberglass filler called u pol fibral lite after pillar bedding to make everything fit right. It's very easy to work with and cures very hard. I used acraglass gel to bed the action and bottom metal.

I painted the stock with alumahyde II and krylon marbelizing spray. I put it in a makeshift hot box for 3 days and then put it in front of a fan for few more days.

I think it turned out great and the rifle is a great shooter! 20190720_150802.jpg 20190405_145101.jpg 20190410_154730.jpg 20190410_210115.jpg 20190414_141653.jpg
 
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