Barrels, which manufacturer??

[RockyMtnMT]

I cerakote after Nitrided all the time, same process as anything else and same results.

bigngreen,

Have you had the opportunity to test a nitrided barrel? Who are you having do it? We are going to be diving back into the 6.5 Ultracat and thinking it might be a good idea to have this barrel nitrided.

Steve

 

[Rich Coyle]

The nitride is such a nice finish why do some cerakote afterward?

Kmccord asked is the outside is done. The whole thing goes into something. The last one I did I took the trigger and bolt off and had the receiver and brake done so that nice color was on all the metal.

 

[TwoMore]

bigngreen,

Have you had the opportunity to test a nitrided barrel? Who are you having do it? We are going to be diving back into the 6.5 Ultracat and thinking it might be a good idea to have this barrel nitrided.

Steve

I am thinking about doing a 6.5 on my ultra rouge chamber and using some Hammer solids with it I am interested in nitrating also

 

[Ottway]

I have hung quite a few barrels in the last 45 years. I have never had a bad shooting Hart, Shilen select match, Bartlien, or Kreiger. All will shoot bugholes. Prefer Hart. Cut rifling for hunting is a ridiculous comment. Accuracy is accuracy, Whether it's paper, steel or hunting.

 

[Kmccord]

I have hung quite a few barrels in the last 45 years. I have never had a bad shooting Hart, Shilen select match, Bartlien, or Kreiger. All will shoot bugholes. Prefer Hart. Cut rifling for hunting is a ridiculous comment. Accuracy is accuracy, Whether it's paper, steel or hunting.

Thanks for the information, I am scratching my head trying to figure out how Hart or other button rifled barrels are no good for hunting. A good example of them is McWhorter Custom Rifles swears by Hart and prefer them along with Borden action as the cream of the crop. They claim, Hart are the straightest barrels on the market, don't know personally, just what I have heard them proclaim.

 

[adam32]

Thanks for the information, I am scratching my head trying to figure out how Hart or other button rifled barrels are no good for hunting. A good example of them is McWhorter Custom Rifles swears by Hart and prefer them along with Borden action as the cream of the crop. They claim, Hart are the straightest barrels on the market, don't know personally, just what I have heard them proclaim.

Go back and read post #18...

 

[Kmccord]

Go back and read post #18...

Yes sir.

 

[Pdvdh]

I too would like to hear more about cut vs button, what would make one better than the other.

The one with the correct twist rate would be better than the one with the incorrect twist rate.

 

[bassrods]

I guess those many hundreds of AR barrels never broke in along with the 3 customs precision I have had of my person guns. Its a good thing they all foul far less than broken in barrels not nitrided and clean much easier. Must of gotten lucky ????

I actually tested this as opposed to hypothesis. First how is trace copper staying in the barrels when they are preheated way above the melting point of copper? There are places that do crappy nitriding no different than barrel making. That usually end in a surface that is not as hard and even when speaking in microns is a thinner.

As for barrel break in. That is a burnishing of the surface or in otherwords a type of polishing hence why when you use a mechanical paste you sort of have to thru something similar to a very shortened break in. Some barrels with very nice surfaces are broken in only a few shots. Nitirding when the process is of the quench polish quench leaves s surface once polished that is far slicker than a broken in barrel not so treated so not sure how that works. The fact there is a increase in vel and lowering of pressure supports this fact. Very much the same happens going from a virgin barrel to broken in but this takes it beyond that degree a step further. Again its not like you are gaining 300 fps and can add 10% more powder but its there and measurable given if there is enough powder capacity in the vase and proper burn powder etc which is a given.

Not to mention that when dealing with a barrel burner like many of the popular LR rounds you are not actually burning up the throat while you are breaking in the barrel with shots compared to nitriding. Could you do a nice finally hand lapping of the chamber and bore??? Yes without a doubt and likley a good idea especially the chamber. The smoother the better makes complete sense but a top end barrel should need little in the bore itself.

Nothing is a free lunch but what krieger wrote just does not match up with what I know of the process or the logic of it with the understanding of what is going on.

If you order a barrow from a good maker they polish the barrow as the last step before they send it out.. So brake-ends is a waste of time and amo..

 

[bigngreen]

If you order a barrow from a good maker they polish the barrow as the last step before they send it out.. So brake-ends is a waste of time and amo..

Ya but what happened after it leaves them and before shooting? That's what breaks in!!

 

[Pdvdh]

What's a barrow?

 

[bigngreen]

I would suggest anyone buying a barrel call the guys making them and ask them about their process, I stop in and have visited as many as I can get close to. Some contour at different time, some lap multiple times, some flute and finish contour at different time, some stress relieve some do have a clue but still are killing it because cheap sells.
I really like Brux's process, I like Rock Creek, Bartlien and Hart. As a smith I really like barrels that dial in easy, dial in enough and you'll find barrels that dial easier than others, there are a couple that I can rough dial the OD and the ID will be inside a couple thousand, take a couple minutes to have dialed in, others take a half hour of jacking around splitting g the difference between the high and low lands. You can definitely feel the differences in the steel as your cutting.
As smiths I'd say some of us choose barrels stacking all the odds in our clients and our favor even if it's beyond their needs, others just stick what ever barrel will sell the build, as a single barrel buyer just buy what blows your skirt up but don't hold a smith to building one it if it gives him hives!!

 

[tim_w]

I would suggest anyone buying a barrel call the guys making them and ask them about their process, I stop in and have visited as many as I can get close to. Some contour at different time, some lap multiple times, some flute and finish contour at different time, some stress relieve some do have a clue but still are killing it because cheap sells.
I really like Brux's process, I like Rock Creek, Bartlien and Hart. As a smith I really like barrels that dial in easy, dial in enough and you'll find barrels that dial easier than others, there are a couple that I can rough dial the OD and the ID will be inside a couple thousand, take a couple minutes to have dialed in, others take a half hour of jacking around splitting g the difference between the high and low lands. You can definitely feel the differences in the steel as your cutting.
As smiths I'd say some of us choose barrels stacking all the odds in our clients and our favor even if it's beyond their needs, others just stick what ever barrel will sell the build, as a single barrel buyer just buy what blows your skirt up but don't hold a smith to building one it if it gives him hives!!

Great post

 

[TwoMore]

If you order a barrow from a good maker they polish the barrow as the last step before they send it out.. So brake-ends is a waste of time and amo..

the break in process is mainly for cleaning up the throat area after cambering when we cut their lapped surface away

I would suggest anyone buying a barrel call the guys making them and ask them about their process, I stop in and have visited as many as I can get close to. Some contour at different time, some lap multiple times, some flute and finish contour at different time, some stress relieve some do have a clue but still are killing it because cheap sells.
I really like Brux's process, I like Rock Creek, Bartlien and Hart. As a smith I really like barrels that dial in easy, dial in enough and you'll find barrels that dial easier than others, there are a couple that I can rough dial the OD and the ID will be inside a couple thousand, take a couple minutes to have dialed in, others take a half hour of jacking around splitting g the difference between the high and low lands. You can definitely feel the differences in the steel as your cutting.
As smiths I'd say some of us choose barrels stacking all the odds in our clients and our favor even if it's beyond their needs, others just stick what ever barrel will sell the build, as a single barrel buyer just buy what blows your skirt up but don't hold a smith to building one it if it gives him hives!!

heck yea !