Barrel Whip

[Blackdirt Cowboy]

Thanks FEENIX !!!!!
That Is one of the best videos I have seen on how to achieve accuracy. Many of the things he points out are important to building an accurate rifle. The loading is the other part of having an accurate rifle.

You can build an accurate rifle that has all the right design features, But without tuned ammo, you will never see the real potential of the rifle. It takes both. Then when you add shooter skill, You have a winner.

The Video is a little long, but worth taking the time to watch. Well Though out and explained. I saw no bias or opinion just facts that can be proved.

I highly recommend this Video.

J E CUSTOM

This was an excellent video, and I learned a lot watching it. But he never mentioned free floating a barrel. In fact, he went the opposite direction and talked about adding a pressure point to barrel. What are all's thoughts on that?

 

[J E Custom]

This was an excellent video, and I learned a lot watching it. But he never mentioned free floating a barrel. In fact, he went the opposite direction and talked about adding a pressure point to barrel. What are all's thoughts on that?

I personally don't like tip pressure on a stock, but I have added a bedded band in the tip of the stock that dampened the barrel and effectively made the barrel act like a shorter barrel. This band just touches the barrel without applying pressure. This works when a very powerful rifle has a very thin/small contour and is real buggy whip.

Pressure points work only if they can be done correctly and don't add inconsistent stresses. We free float heaver barrels to increase there consistency when they torque or flex a small amount compared to light barrels.

A lot depends on the barrel diameter, length and bullet weight as to what method is needed .

J E CUSTOM

 

[carl1775]

Epic ...

"Razzle- Dazzle!"

 

[TwoMore]

ny

I got one of them somewhere in my house when they first came out.

View attachment 140773
(NOTE: Before anybody comment on the weight, (first time use of the lead sled rest) I stopped using them as soon as I learned the damage it may cause on the rifle,

i noticed at longer ranges like 440 yards my groups on certain setups would be slightly tighter while my magneto speed was installed so I tried the sims out there on the end and just adjusted it slightly up and down, works pretty good for me Thanx Feenix I like to watch his vids

 

[5.56×250]

I have 2 or 3 of those sims here at the house. I tried them on different rifles, auto and bolt. Never helped on the AR15s, but it did tighten up the groups on my rem700 308 sporter barrel. That action is now wearing a remage sendaro profile 6.5 creed barrel. Havent messed with the sims on that one.

 

[no1cr500racer]

ny

I got one of them somewhere in my house when they first came out.

View attachment 140773
(NOTE: Before anybody comment on the weight, (first time use of the lead sled rest) I stopped using them as soon as I learned the damage it may cause on the rifle,

Wait! damage from using a lead sled? I need to know about this

 

[5.56×250]

Wait! damage from using a lead sled? I need to know about this

Recoil doesnt have anywhere to go, so the gun absorbs ALL of it. Magnums have been known to break stocks.

 

[280remington]

It has to be fact! I use to watch Yosemite Sam cartoons shoot his guns and they always had barrel whip.

 

[Overkill338]

That is the question, what are the facts and what are not the facts about Barrel Whip ?

To whip, or not to whip, that is the question.

 

[5.56×250]

To whip, or not to whip, that is the question.

Therefore, to shoot or not to shoot ?

 

[Danehunter]

Feenix,
I hope all shooters who aspire to excellence know the information in that video. THANKS!

JE Custom,
Right on tuned ammo. And good reloading gear helps refine that to a gnat's eyelash.

BTW, I have a .300 Win mag stainless Browning A-Bolt with a BOSS brake that has a micrometer-style adjustment for harmonics. It will give most factory ammo at least 1 MOA accuracy and usually much better than that.

I had to play a bit when mounting my Little Bastard brake on my Ruger PR using washers between the stop nut and the brake to get decent harmonics, after which I then began testing "loads for nodes".

While my 6.5 CM Browning X-Bolt Pro hunting rifle has a skinny barrel it is perfectly factory glass bedded in a carbon fiber wrapped stock, along with tested reloading, makes it a consistent 1/2 MOA rifle (until that thin barrel heats up, that is).

Eric B.

 

[Frog4aday]

The whole "can-you-slide-a-dollar-barrel-between-the-stock and barrel" type of check for free-floating seems comical to me now. Watching that video of the AR being fired (with and without muzzle brakes) and seeing how much 'whip' that barrel has...it makes me realize that MOST free-floated barrels are easily touching the stock during the act of being fired. The "plus" of a free-float is there is at least no-contact BEFORE the shot is fired so regardless of what the stock is doing, the barrel is 'free' for...a brief moment.

This also makes me appreciate the need for a really firm, stiff, non-flexible for-end on a gun. If the barrel is going to whip and make contact, the stiffer and more 'inert' the for-end, the less variable the barrel-to-stock contact will be. Put another way - the barrel WILL still touch but it will touch in a more consistent, repeatable manner because the stock isn't flexing, TOO. And, I would think, the stiffer and less forgiving forend will have a greater 'damping' effect on that whipping barrel.

 

[Overkill338]

The whole "can-you-slide-a-dollar-barrel-between-the-stock and barrel" type of check for free-floating seems comical to me now. Watching that video of the AR being fired (with and without muzzle brakes) and seeing how much 'whip' that barrel has...it makes me realize that MOST free-floated barrels are easily touching the stock during the act of being fired. The "plus" of a free-float is there is at least no-contact BEFORE the shot is fired so regardless of what the stock is doing, the barrel is 'free' for...a brief moment.

This also makes me appreciate the need for a really firm, stiff, non-flexible for-end on a gun. If the barrel is going to whip and make contact, the stiffer and more 'inert' the for-end, the less variable the barrel-to-stock contact will be. Put another way - the barrel WILL still touch but it will touch in a more consistent, repeatable manner because the stock isn't flexing, TOO. And, I would think, the stiffer and less forgiving forend will have a greater 'damping' effect on that whipping barrel.

I'm going to attempt to stiffen a Ruger boat paddle. Plan to cut slots into the partitions, and place a small threaded rod in it. Then fill it all with epoxy. Should be interesting.

 

[Frog4aday]

I've got a Tikka T3 in .338 Win Mag that has a plastic stock in need of similar treatment. I've been thinking steel rod lengthwise in the forend, then epoxy over the top of that. I can see why you are going a slightly different route with your stock since there are already some perpendicular cross bolts in there. Should have same/similar outcome if we use the right epoxy and drill some holes in the plastic stock at various angles to give the epoxy some places to bed-in and stay put once it all cures.

It should add some weight, too, which is good in my case. My .338 needs a bit more heft to take some of the sting out of it. I've already free-floated but now I'm going to hog out a whole lot more around the barrel, too. It may still make contact but hopefully with enough gap, that'll happen long after the bullet has said "sayonara" to the muzzle.