Barrel removal questions

[toddlouis]

Hey all,

I have a short action customs actiom wrench head. I got it from area 419, and it stated I could use any wrench and extension.

On the SAC website they have the the wrench body that I might order if I can't get the barrel off with the extensions I have.

so the questions I have is about the action wrench head, it's for a FN/Winchester m70 push feed. The head seems to have a bunch of play when in the action, is there a counterbore or not? I don't understand if I need the bumpers.

also, I tried using the viper barrel vise and just the SAC action wrench head. Would it be wise to get the big wrench that has the flats on there and clamps on the outside of the action? I feel like I couldn't even get the threads to budge one bit.

Any tips/help/Input is greatly appreciated

 

[tobnpr]

No counterbore on the M70 breech- it would be the short bumper needed.
Factory barrels can be a bitch. I like to use an external action wrench on them because most have been torqued on gorilla tight; if it's an older action they're usually even more difficult to break loose. You can't go wrong with Brownell's wrench if this isn't a one-time barrel pull (expense).

It's always a good idea to soak the threads with Kroil for a day or two on older barrels- if you didn't do that, it would be my first recommendation- then give it another shot.

Do you need to save the barrel? If not, a relief cut just ahead of the receiver ring if you have a lathe...
The Viper is a pretty decent vise for being "universal" type, but if the barrel slips you'll need a HD barrel vise and bushings (again, Brownell's is excellent) or- a hydraulic press if ya got one with oak wood blocks or similar.

If this is a one-time deal, it'd be far cheaper to have a local smith pull it in a few minutes than spending a few hundred bucks for tooling you don't plan to use again.

 

[John Ricks]

I do it this way. Made the barrel vise in 1972 when I did a lot of work with the 'ol ugly P14 and P17 Enfields. Never had one slip in the vise, always got the action off. The socket wrench is 3/4" drive with a 30 inch handle. Clamp bolts are 1" diameter aircraft engine mount bolts, stronger than grade 8 bolts. Blocks made from 4140 alloy.

M700 Remington. Note the lug that goes into the magazine well. On the barrel side of the action wrench is a lug indexer. The round bar in the receiver protects against crushing.

Action wrenches for M700 Rem, Mauser, and M70 Win/ p-14 and P-17 Enfields. I have several more for different actions.

This is a big Webber single shot action. File folder cardboard wrapped on the barrel prevents marring.

Barrel bushings in the front. Truing arbors in the back.

Close up of the brass bushing and the cardboard.

 

[Muddyboots]

I've had really good luck using PB Blaster as a penetrant on threads. Seems to really get into old threads better.

 

[Muddyboots]

I guess I will find out shortly. I have a Remington barrel that seems to be welded to action. Soaking with PB and will hit it with heat gun tomorrow to maybe get some better oil penetration.

 

[sierracharlie338]

If you have problems with barrel slippage in the viper vise try using Sheetrock joint tape between the barrel and vise. Was able to pop the action right off after that with zero issues.

For the record I'm not a gunsmith but have found some tricks that work over the years.

 

[shortgrass]

I do it this way. Made the barrel vise in 1972 when I did a lot of work with the 'ol ugly P14 and P17 Enfields. Never had one slip in the vise, always got the action off. The socket wrench is 3/4" drive with a 30 inch handle. Clamp bolts are 1" diameter aircraft engine mount bolts, stronger than grade 8 bolts. Blocks made from 4140 alloy.

M700 Remington. Note the lug that goes into the magazine well. On the barrel side of the action wrench is a lug indexer. The round bar in the receiver protects against crushing.

Action wrenches for M700 Rem, Mauser, and M70 Win/ p-14 and P-17 Enfields. I have several more for different actions.

This is a big Webber single shot action. File folder cardboard wrapped on the barrel prevents marring.

Barrel bushings in the front. Truing arbors in the back.

Close up of the brass bushing and the cardboard.

Now that's a barrel vise and action wrenches!

 

[LuvDog]

Wow... you aren't messing around. I wish you were local to me

 

[Wedgy]

Some heat from a torch will free up thread glues like Loctite, I have had good luck with the Viper.

 

[Wyosam]

One trick that has worked well for me is thread soak with PB blaster or similar, get everything set up and ready, put the barreled action in the chest freezer for a few hours. clamp the barrel in the vice, then some quick heat to the receiver ring with a propane torch and break it loose. Decades old remingtons and stubborn Tikkas have popped off easily for me with this method.

 

[ShtrRdy]

That's a serious barrel removal tool!!

 

[LoneTraveler]

There are many companies assembling all sorts of things, They use impact wrenches set up with special tooling to do things quickly, And keep workman's compensation. down from workers jerking on big parts, And hurting their back or shoulders. It is easy to put parts together with impact wrench, That are near impossible to hand lever or wrench apart. Will come right apart with an impact wrench.
Big truck wheels taught me that lesson, Many Many snows ago.