• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Barrel Pictures What Do You Think?

Unsure of the rules but I am curious of the manufacturer
It is best not to do it publicly; deal with the person/manufacturer directly and privately.

1671201322434.png
 
That barrel is going to be a copper-fouling mother lover! It is a cut rifle barrel; one manufacturer,in particular, is making some barrels that have a lot of deep cutter marks in the groove! Button rifle barrels do not have those long cutter marks that go from breech to muzzle.

Your gunsmith should always inspect the bore prior to chambering, and for that matter, you should also! If your gunsmith does not inspect barrels prior to chambering, then find a gunsmith that does! Assume NOTHING!

When a gunsmith provides a barrel, there may be a different "warranty" than when you send him a barrel to chamber. Also, gunsmiths have more pull with a barrel maker than an individual.

Teslong bore scope videos and pictures I feel will bump up the quality of all services.

I am no gunsmith. Brux-cut rifle barrels are the smoothest I have ever looked at, and Krieger's service is second to NONE! Service after the sale is an important factor in a barrel's price as Dieselsteve has just found out the hard way. Those cutter marks in DieselSteve's barrel will foul like crazy, so good copper solvent is going to be a must. There is NO WAY to lap smooth those cutter marks in the barrel without destroying the barrel. KG12 and Montana Extreme Copper solvent is your friend, and de-coppering after 15-20 rounds will probably be normal for the life of the barrel.

I opt for going to a lighter contour vs using a carbon wrap barrel, for many reasons....that is just me.

Some lessons are hard learned, Rough barrel/bad customer service...been there/done that! $89-$149 Teslong bore scope saves a lot of headaches/money and will absolutely be a necessity when it comes to cleaning this barrel.

I had a barrel that looked like this with cutter marks from front to back, and it was hard to work up a load it copper fouled so badly. I did find a very accurate load, but the barrel needed de-coppering every 9 shots, 7 Rem mag with 140's at 3200 fps.

For guys on a budget, X-Caliber barrels are smooth as glass, button rifle'd. Recently, I had 4 Wilson barrels chambered(button rifle'd)and they were all very smooth, 6 BRA and 22-243 AI. For my cut rifle barrels, BRUX and Krieger. Those Krieger Boys, if you are not happy, they will make you happy! Nuff said, decades of World Class Customer Service!
 
I think that is better to offer high praise to those barrel makers that have high standards and great customer service vs running a company into the ground with poor quality/poor customer service.

I expect sub 1/2 MOA on a custom barrel with the barrel not turning into a copper mine with an intensive cleaning regiment every 20 rounds.

High praise for good men with great products.!

Obviously, I have been burned like DieselSteve on several barrels, figure a thousand dollar bill on each, on the cheap side, not counting the replacement!
 
I thought I was getting a barrel made by someone who would stand behind their work. I will be getting a scope to look at all my new barrels going forward. Thanks for the help. I wish there was some way to make companies accountable but any more we just take it.
 
Could always state whom it wasn't from.....
Maybe some of those barrel refining bullets could help 'smooth out' your problem areas......
 
In Private, you can run them into the ground for the rest of your life, not in public!

Read my post again on recommendations, and Teslong is your best friend. You can get the model that plugs into a device for cheap and the hand held model is around $149 less military discount.

I shoot a lot!

Lesson #2 is on gunsmiths:

A. bore scope prior to chambering
B. use a set of reamer pilots so that they can fit the proper size reamer pilot for that particular barrel dia, which is another hard lesson learned:
1. slightly undersize barrel, with a std size pilot, will gouge the lands
2. undersize pilot for the barrel will cause the reamer to flop while cutting the
chamber, a mirage of problems.
C. choose a gunsmith that will inspect the barrel before he takes the barrel out of
the lathe.
1. you want to see no reamer chatter in the throat and leade angle
2. inspection on the chamber to see if a reamer flute has picked up a chip,
causing a ring in the chamber
3. inspect to see if the chamber has cut rough with lines all in the body of the chamber, in case the reamer has dulled or the gunsmith took too deep a cut on one pass

Looking for a cheap gunsmith is NOT smart. A True Craftsman takes pride in his work, and relishes his customer's loyalty!

I learned all of this from decades of having barrels installed, and my friend's problems also. I had issues with all the above, but hard lessons were learned with a price tag.

Joe Wagner, a German Gunsmith in Los Angles taught me most of this..
 
I would not be happy with that at all. I have a similar issue, but much worse with a smokeless ML barrel I bought. The barrel was so rough it would pull pieces off the cotton patch's I use to clean the barrel. Sent a bore scope video to the company who sells the barrels (large company in the SML business) and I was told "tough luck. That's what I get for buying "X" branded barrel instead of "X" brand." Emailed the barrel manufacturer directly and they said they'd replace the barrel free of charge. But, I'd still need it sent back to be cut by the SML smith and I'd have to pay for that.
Hoping it smooths out over time, did put a really bad taste in my mouth concerning the large SML company though.
 
That barrel looks like a million bucks compared to some of mine that shoot around a minute or slightly better. When you say it didn't shoot what do you mean by that? 2 min, 1 min, 5 min? Did you ever run it 20-40 rounds without cleaning or were you copper mining the whole time? I am wondering if that barrel would ever settle and shoot. Just curious, not going anywhere with the questions.
 
I own a hawkeye and a teslong borescope... have looked at many barrels....
you need a scope to tell how clean the barrel is.. if there is a carbon build up.
I always look at a barrel BEFORE I chamber. I have send unchambered barrels back for a lot less tool marks than this.I was provided with a new barrel.
If they say"see how it shoots" ask them if they will provide components...
I,ve never saw a custom this bad.
If that is a custom barrel....
The mfg. should replace it.
 
I own a hawkeye and a teslong borescope... have looked at many barrels....
you need a scope to tell how clean the barrel is.. if there is a carbon build up.
I always look at a barrel BEFORE I chamber. I have send unchambered barrels back for a lot less tool marks than this.I was provided with a new barrel.
If they say"see how it shoots" ask them if they will provide components...
I,ve never saw a custom this bad.
If that is a custom barrel....
The mfg. should replace it.
Very Wise advise! I hope that those that read this will take it to heart!
 
If the flaws could not have been caused by the barrel finishing, the blank provider should replace it.
Otherwise, the finisher should replace it.
But once finished & fired, it could be less clear about the cause.
 

Recent Posts

Top