flyin lizard
Well-Known Member
Go to Bore tech Eliminator, I use to use Butches and thought my barrels where clean ,but after running a wet patch with BTE thru a "clean" barrell and having lots of blue/green on it, I switched.
Barrel cleaning ,what am I doing wrong
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Fitch
Well-Known Member
After reading this article Bore Cleaning Method a few years ago I pretty much clean in two steps, now and then going to step 3:
Finally, mixing cleaners together is a bad idea. Modern cleaning solvents are relatively sophisticated combinations of chemicals that have been extensively tested to be sure they won't damage the bore. Mixing them together is venturing into the unknown and betting the bore on a completely untested combination of chemicals - nobody knows what will happen with that combination. I'm very careful to dry patch the bore till there is no trace of the solvent just used, then remove the bore guide and use a patch wrapped mop in the chamber to get rid of any remaining residue of one solvent before going to the next one.
Fitch
- I get the carbon out. GM Top Engine Cleaner (it stinks but it sure works!), SLIP2000, or M-PRO7 with a few brush strokes and some soak time all work well for getting the carbon out and uncovering the copper. Chemicals take time to work.
- Then I use BoreTech Eliminator to get rid of the copper and any remaining carbon.
- Sometimes, if a bore is stubborn (has chatter marks in the grooves like my 1953 model 70) I finish up with an overnight soak using WipeOut foaming bore cleaner. I use Lucas rod guides so it's easy to plug the breech end to keep the foam in there - a Q-tip with a couple patches to make it bigger will plug the muzzle (at least up to .30 caliber, I don't have anything bigger).
Finally, mixing cleaners together is a bad idea. Modern cleaning solvents are relatively sophisticated combinations of chemicals that have been extensively tested to be sure they won't damage the bore. Mixing them together is venturing into the unknown and betting the bore on a completely untested combination of chemicals - nobody knows what will happen with that combination. I'm very careful to dry patch the bore till there is no trace of the solvent just used, then remove the bore guide and use a patch wrapped mop in the chamber to get rid of any remaining residue of one solvent before going to the next one.
Fitch
Last edited:
Bore Scope verified many times.....
Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don't have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your rifle and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one "At-A-Boy" for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.
Note: One "Aw-****" wipes out ALL "At-A-Boys".
Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets 7.62 through the bore and let soak for approximately 60 seconds. Do not patch this out.
Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o'clock. This is very bad "JU-JU" for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with Sweets and SLOWLY run the brush through the barrel 10 (or more depending on the fouling amount) complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.
Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with Sweets and pass it through the bore if it is clean good job if not repeat 2 and 3. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Cleaner. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (do not use too much).
D. Final Cleaning Tips -
1. Each time you clean you should follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.
2 The only product I use that really does a good job on powder fouling (will clean everything out including copper), especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with an IOSSO nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore for 10 to 20 strokes depending on the fouling level. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual, and you're ready to shoot. The brush will eventually turn black as you pass through the bore repeatedly and use Brake Cleaner or if you have a lot of money Gun Scrubber to clean the brush off (both for this and the Pro Shot phosphor bronze ones) then a blast down the Lucas Bore Guide followed by a patch or two to clean out any remaining IOSSO. Then a patch of Butches Bore Shine followed by 2 dry patches finally followed by a patch of LOCK-EZ.
This is a modified method of what Speedy taught me and it works because --- THE BORE SCOPE DOES NOT LIE
Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don't have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your rifle and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one "At-A-Boy" for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.
Note: One "Aw-****" wipes out ALL "At-A-Boys".
Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets 7.62 through the bore and let soak for approximately 60 seconds. Do not patch this out.
Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o'clock. This is very bad "JU-JU" for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with Sweets and SLOWLY run the brush through the barrel 10 (or more depending on the fouling amount) complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.
Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with Sweets and pass it through the bore if it is clean good job if not repeat 2 and 3. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Cleaner. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (do not use too much).
D. Final Cleaning Tips -
1. Each time you clean you should follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.
2 The only product I use that really does a good job on powder fouling (will clean everything out including copper), especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with an IOSSO nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore for 10 to 20 strokes depending on the fouling level. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual, and you're ready to shoot. The brush will eventually turn black as you pass through the bore repeatedly and use Brake Cleaner or if you have a lot of money Gun Scrubber to clean the brush off (both for this and the Pro Shot phosphor bronze ones) then a blast down the Lucas Bore Guide followed by a patch or two to clean out any remaining IOSSO. Then a patch of Butches Bore Shine followed by 2 dry patches finally followed by a patch of LOCK-EZ.
This is a modified method of what Speedy taught me and it works because --- THE BORE SCOPE DOES NOT LIE
