Badlands BD-2 load data

[Mike Matteson]

I appreciate your argument. No hostility taken. For the described procedure I am using a standard 338LM chamber. I had turned the necks to fit a custom chamber such that the wall thickness is 0.012" so that means the final narrowing of the neck has to be about 0.002" tighter. I have a custom honed FL sizer without an expander ball to get to the correct internal diameter. This procedure should apply to 0.014" thick necks as well. If you do any neck turning, it should be done before any resizing preferably on once fired brass.

That's the way I understand it and do it with new brass. Fired brass I size and use a mandrel to push the uneveness to the outside then cut to length. Then cut for thickness.
It's take me 4 steps to necks down from 7mm to 6mm. I cut for thickness in 2 setups. Step down twice, anneal and finish up. So far I' ve been able to acheive tension at the time. The Smith want a few case to test fire. Found my neck is a little smaller ID than want by .0005. So I am cutting the thckness to .00125. Smith moved his shop, and I didn't have the blank to chamber for the seating die. I have a Gen-3 for length, and a 21st ctr to cut the thickness.
It's kind of been one delay after another here as of late. Looks like I am good to go! Live and learn. Thanks again.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Any time. There is a third powder that is new with temp stability and burn rate similar to Varget that could also be good in the 308Win. I have some but not tried it yet as the weather here is preventing me from using my Lab Radar. It is promoted as a high energy temp stable ball powder, StaBall Match. I you or your buddies have a chance to try it out, please post the results.

That's my understanding too. I have gotten some 1lbs in Staball powders and Vihtavuori powders to try. I hate to purchase powders and end up not working out. Have to try anyway.

 

[GUNNNN]

300wm
28" 1:8
205gr sbd 2
Lapua brass
Cci250
73.4 gr h1000
Jumping .110"
2960fps

5 shots @100View attachment 362667

Holy moly

 

[nralifer]

Here is a safe but fast load for the 308 Win using the 150 gr BD-2. Used Lapua Palma SRP brass, once fired, CCI 450 mag SRP, 0.025" of lands, 24" 1:9 twist Bartlein barrel. COAL=2.900"
Powder: 49.5 gr Leverevolution final. Starting load 46 gr. No pressure signs seen
Speeds (fps)
3087
3089
3087
3087
3094
ES=7fps
Group 1"@ 165 yds (0.63 MOA) at 49.5 gr LVR.
Heavy mirage and in your face 15 MPH wind
Measured G7BC=0.266 with Lab Radar
This COAL will fit in Savage and ARC short action magazines.
At 600 yds, 57F, 33% humidity, 28.25 inHg bullet retains 2131 fps and 1523 ft-lbs of energy.
Opening impact velocity 1700 fps
Distance to 1700 fps under specified conditions is 900 yds.

 

[BillLarson]

GREAT INFO HERE....... proven and not theory.....

 

[nralifer]

Well done

What was the muzzle velocity? Must have been up there.

 

[nralifer]

I have emailed Badlands and asked for load data and they responded pretty quickly. The attached is for 175 grain BD2 for 300 Win MagView attachment 362710

StaBall6.5 has a slightly slower burn rate than
H100V and should yield higher speeds. You can use the H100V data for SB6.5 and incrementally increase the charge until you start to see either heavy bolt lift or primer flattening then back off 1 gr.

 

[nralifer]

That's my understanding too. I have gotten some 1lbs in Staball powders and Vihtavuori powders to try. I hate to purchase powders and end up not working out. Have to try anyway.

In looking for the max charge for SB-Match here is what I got in a charge ladder using the 150 gr 308 BD2 in a 24" 308Win 1:9 twist at a COAL=2.900" (0.025" jump). Primer BR-2 LRP Lapua brass:
47.5 gr. 2957 fps
48.5 3004
50 3073
51 3110 some primer flattening

The 51 gr load filled the case to mid neck as seen in the pick but compressing the load to the 2.900" COAL was easy.

 

[nralifer]

If you are using a tighten or reduce chamber in the neck area. You would have to cut the or thin the neck down to start with.
I kind of stumble onto this a great many years ago with my 308 N.Mag. It has a longer neck than the 300 WM, and shorter to the shoulder. I was trying to get passed the case separation at the belt. I noted after firing the case the transition in the shoulder was to chamber size on a portion of the neck. That stop the separation completely. Lost the case from primer pockets getting to large after that.
It's been my understanding is better to thin your neck before firing the case. You are saying different than that. I just wonder why? I am not trying to pick a fight either I like very much what you have written about.
I was by accident able to only size my necks down part ways using a bushing die. So went to the smith I was working with and doing another build now. He quickly figure it out. O'well I have to get another 280AI bushing die to change my proceedures some.
I like very much. and other here are doing or have been doing the same or close to what you have done in managing you cases.

Sorry for taking so long to respond. I have a small IDOD lathe that gives you the option to turn the outside or inside of the case neck only or both at once. By "fire forming the virgin neck, the neck is straighter and the outside is more uniform than the inside. The IDOD lathe is used at that point to even out the inside of the neck at 0.00025 to 0.0005" increments. Theoretically what you cut out of the inside is due to unevenness of the neck wall thickness.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Sorry for taking so long to respond. I have a small IDOD lathe that gives you the option to turn the outside or inside of the case neck only or both at once. By "fire forming the virgin neck, the neck is straighter and the outside is more uniform than the inside. The IDOD lathe is used at that point to even out the inside of the neck at 0.00025 to 0.0005" increments. Theoretically what you cut out of the inside is due to unevenness of the neck wall thickness.

It's been my understanding and also told to cut for neck thickness before doing anything else that are virgin brass. The only different is that I set up and cut all my cases to length first. Found that virgin brass can be several thousands different between cases. No I am not going to eye ball it where to stop the cut either. That way once set up to cut the neck to thickness. the stop prevent the cutter from going to far or short of where it is to stop everytime. In the shaping of the brass the inside of the neck is the gauge and any uneveness is to the outside of the neck and probable the entire case is done that way. I never seen how that process is done to shape a case. In thinking about it now, I guess I could have gone onto the net and be shown the process.
Now my pay grade is Carpenter. So I deal with feet and inches. A real lathe is beyond my pay grade.
Back to cutting necks for thickness. If using fired brass this is what I would do. I would FL the brass, I would use a mandrel to push the inside of the neck uneveness to the outside of the neck. Then cut the neck for thickness. I think that should do it. I been thinking won't get me to far. I can stand to be corrected. No harm no faul. I like to see what the others have to say.

 

[nralifer]

It's been my understanding and also told to cut for neck thickness before doing anything else that are virgin brass. The only different is that I set up and cut all my cases to length first. Found that virgin brass can be several thousands different between cases. No I am not going to eye ball it where to stop the cut either. That way once set up to cut the neck to thickness. the stop prevent the cutter from going to far or short of where it is to stop everytime. In the shaping of the brass the inside of the neck is the gauge and any uneveness is to the outside of the neck and probable the entire case is done that way. I never seen how that process is done to shape a case. In thinking about it now, I guess I could have gone onto the net and be shown the process.
Now my pay grade is Carpenter. So I deal with feet and inches. A real lathe is beyond my pay grade.
Back to cutting necks for thickness. If using fired brass this is what I would do. I would FL the brass, I would use a mandrel to push the inside of the neck uneveness to the outside of the neck. Then cut the neck for thickness. I think that should do it. I been thinking won't get me to far. I can stand to be corrected. No harm no faul. I like to see what the others have to say.

If you look at the runout in the necks of virgin brass, it can vary a lot. Once fired brass has much less runout when measured from the outside neck surface.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Somewhere the fireforming has to start. With reduced neck chamber there isn't much you can do but cut the thickness of the neck at the start. The case won't chamber otherwise.
In this 6mm/280AI chambering there is a lot of work just to get the case just to use. After cutting the neck thickness. It takes me 4 steps to reduce the neck for 6mm. I crushed a couple of case in achieving the down sizing the necks to accept a 6mm bullet. There some debates on what comes first the chicken or the egg.
It seem like when starting this wildcat build, there been a lot of interferences in getting it done. One thing or another. Lost my reloading area at my sons place do to his wife want if for and offices. That find by me, so now the shed. One thing at least, I am not being taken behind the wood shed.
So now I am having to build a reload shed to do the work in. I kinds of shake my head and wonder what did I start?
The one thing fore sure I am on a hell of learning curb.

 

[RH300UM]

Somewhere the fireforming has to start. With reduced neck chamber there isn't much you can do but cut the thickness of the neck at the start. The case won't chamber otherwise.
In this 6mm/280AI chambering there is a lot of work just to get the case just to use. After cutting the neck thickness. It takes me 4 steps to reduce the neck for 6mm. I crushed a couple of case in achieving the down sizing the necks to accept a 6mm bullet. There some debates on what comes first the chicken or the egg.
It seem like when starting this wildcat build, there been a lot of interferences in getting it done. One thing or another. Lost my reloading area at my sons place do to his wife want if for and offices. That find by me, so now the shed. One thing at least, I am not being taken behind the wood shed.
So now I am having to build a reload shed to do the work in. I kinds of shake my head and wonder what did I start?
The one thing fore sure I am on a hell of learning curb.

Some of my wildcats need the neck trimmed on the virgin brass or they won't chamber for fire forming.
My 375 RBH (338nm necked up and improved) uses 423 Dakota brass made by Lapua. It takes me 7 steps to get to the fireform stage. Then a final turning after 2 full loads on the brass. Wish I had a IDOD neck turning lathe.

IDOD

Advanced Case Neck Turning

www.fclassproducts.com

 

[nralifer]

Some of my wildcats need the neck trimmed on the virgin brass or they won't chamber for fire forming.
My 375 RBH (338nm necked up and improved) uses 423 Dakota brass made by Lapua. It takes me 7 steps to get to the fireform stage. Then a final turning after 2 full loads on the brass. Wish I had a IDOD neck turning lathe.

IDOD

Advanced Case Neck Turning

www.fclassproducts.com

View attachment 456826View attachment 456827

What type of speed do you get from the 375RBH with a 300 gr bullet?