Bad news on long-awaited 7RUM Shaw barrel.

[bigngreen]

I've been on pac-nor's site at least once before, and I think I will look into them some more. They DO go long, if I recall correctly. But I really like the suggestion about having the SLA action opened up to fit a large-shank barrel. I didn't realize that it was possible, because I was under the impression that large-shank SLA actions had a larger outside diameter than the standard-shank SLA's. So there is no difference between them, externally? Great! That is the way I will roll then, because I forgot to mention, and basically forgot to even think about, the fact that I have already spent 200 on a stock that fits an SLA action, so getting a whole new rifle really isn't a viable option afterall.

They're the same action, I've opened them up when building a RUM but it wasn't because I've had any issues with them in small shank but I wanted to be able to order a prefit barrel or get a cheap practice take of barrel and screw it right on so I trued the action to the large shank spec. Keeps you in the prefit game with a trued action and with a larger range of possibilities.

 

[Max Heat]

If I would have known what I know now, back before I bought all of the 7RUM brass and dies, I likely WOULD have went STW, and stuck with the small shank size on the action. But at THIS point, it's got to be RUM. And if the major players only do RUM in large shank, I refuse to stray from that myself, considering my tendency to like shooting hot loads. But the idea of hot ultra-magnum loads generates a respectable amount of fear in me - I just can't help it! So going large-shank really goes a long way in helping me manage that fear. If pac-nor does a 31 inch heavy stainless barrel in 7RUM, that looks like the way I will go. But since hart is my local smith, he might not be happy that I'm not buying a barrel from him, if I have his shop do the machine work to open up my action. I'm thinking that one of his barrels would likely cost at least 2X what a pac-nor would run me. And it just doesn't make sense for me to spend big money on barrels that will be burnt up in relatively short order. I have 1 question though. I remember an earlier post mentioning something about ditching the lock nut on the barrel when going big shank. MY preference would be NOT to ditch the nut. Obviously it would need to be a larger size nut, for a larger shank. But it would be doable, wouldn't it?

 

[bigngreen]

Your fine with or without the barrel nut, I have a 7RUM barrel sitting on my bench that I swap with a 270 WSM barrel on my Savage Model 12. I like them both ways just depends on your goals for the rifle, if it's going to be a life long commitment then I shoulder them if not I nut them, if I was putting together a rifle like yours I would use the nut and buy a six pack of barrels

 

[J E Custom]

Max Heat, I Like the suggestion to go with the 7 STW but if you are locked in on the 7 RUM
You can still do that with Big RUM by simpling loading down to STW velocities and still retaining
reasonable barrel life and good brass life if you decide to go with one barrel for a while.

The main advantage to the RUM is that with more case capacity many more powders can be
utilized with heavy bullets and bullets can be seated deeper without eating up to much
powder space.

Opening up the action to a large tenon is definitely an option but I would still recomend
an action size barrel with no nut. That would give you the most support for the large case
possible.

Barrel life can range anywhere from 3 or 400 shots to over 1000 depending on how hard
you load it.

Even loaded down the RUM will meet or exceed the STW . so don't fret, take time to plan
what you are going to and proceed.

I always look at these things as a learning experance and not all bad when they happen
to me.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Max Heat]

I was up at the hart shop yesterday. This isn't direct from horses' mouth (neither jr nor sr were there), but the guys that WERE there all seemed to agree that there is no legit reason to have my action machined out for big shank. Since the actions have same OD, the thickness gained by a big shank barrel is lost by what is machined out of the action to make it fit, so there is NO net gain in chamber wall thickness. I felt a bit dumb for not realizing that. But since THEY didn't think that it makes any sense to machine out the action, it pretty much sways ME back to leaving the action alone, and finding a RUM barrel in standard shank, as the original RUM's did have (but I'd still like to know exactly WHY they [the big players] switched up to a bigger shank). I don't think anyone disputes that their barrels are the best, but at over 2 hundred MORE than the shaw would have cost me for long heavy stainless 7RUM (but I at least I could get 30", as opposed to only 26 with shaw), that would more than double the nearly a buck a shot reloading cost to shoot it, IF what JEC says about hot-shot 7RUM barrel life is true. Two bucks a shot for shooting sub-30cal rounds seems pretty crazy I think, for anyone who does not have money-is-no-object resources. The question NOW transforms into: What reasonably-priced aftermarket barrel makers will do 30" (or 31) heavy stainless 7RUM in savage standard shank ? I take it that pac-nor is NOT in that picture?

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I . Two bucks a shot for shooting sub-30cal rounds seems pretty crazy I think, for anyone who does not have money-is-no-object resources. The question NOW transforms into: What reasonably-priced aftermarket barrel makers will do 30" (or 31) heavy stainless 7RUM in savage standard shank ? I take it that pac-nor is NOT in that picture?

I shot my 7rum for 18 cents a shot, as I traded a factory7mm rum(right hand) off for a left hand 300 rum at 100 dollars more. With tax shooting out that barrel cost me 106 dollars. I've got more shots through the 300 rum than killed the 7rum and it barely looks shot. I try to never heat it up and shoot it in cold weather primarily after the other one went up so fast. Shooting up a factory barrel and trading often saves a bundle over a custom barrel on a barrel burner.

 

[Max Heat]

So your suggestion is that I switch back to the new rifle option? That would put the restriction on it that it would have to be SLA (large shank, of course), to work with the stock that I'm already vested 2 hundred into (and the one I still want to go with, anyways). My question on THAT would be: Can you get a stock savage 7RUM with 30" heavy stainless (varmint contour, at least) barrel? Another advantage to that option (along with being in line with the "now-the-standard-for-RUM" large shank) would be the ability to use the magazine for faster followups, if/when needed. The main intent/objective of this build, IS essentially an over-bore, over-weight, over-the-top, glorifed varmint vaporizer, that is capable of applying the same amount of sizzle onto a 120gr projectile that say, a 220 swift puts onto the little 55ers. I may have alluded to this in other threads, but I want to see ground hogs and coyotes go where the little prairie dogs go after they are "tapped into" by a center-of-mass 220 hit.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

So your suggestion is that I switch back to the new rifle option? That would put the restriction on it that it would have to be SLA (large shank, of course), to work with the stock that I'm already vested 2 hundred into (and the one I still want to go with, anyways). My question on THAT would be: Can you get a stock savage 7RUM with 30" heavy stainless (varmint contour, at least) barrel? Another advantage to that option (along with being in line with the "now-the-standard-for-RUM" large shank) would be the ability to use the magazine for faster followups, if/when needed. The main intent/objective of this build, IS essentially an over-bore, over-weight, over-the-top, glorifed varmint vaporizer, that is capable of applying the same amount of sizzle onto a 120gr projectile that say, a 220 swift puts onto the little 55ers. I may have alluded to this in other threads, but I want to see ground hogs and coyotes go where the little prairie dogs go after they are "tapped into" by a center-of-mass 220 hit.

I was just commenting on how the rum need you have could be satiated. I personally would find a 7 rum and beat the daylights out of it and build yourself a long-barreled 7stw or similar with the action and stock you already have. I saw an stw at the Mitchell S.D. Cabellas last year almost exactly like you are describing. It was a sendero contour m700 with a 28"+ barrel in a hs precision stock. The previous owner was varmint vaporizing with it with 120's driven hard. I'd have bought it but the throat was 1/2 gone and they still wanted around 1k for it.

 

[Max Heat]

So I'm not the only one? I DO fell a little bit better about it now. I was starting to think I was sounding a little bit too extreme. -Not on THIS site, I suppose! Anyways, that pretty much sounds like what I seek to have in hand, but at 1K for 50% throat, my brain is still reeling from that one. That far exceeds what I could (sanely) afford! I think maybe NOW would be the opportune time to ask the Remington company if maybe they could re-consider on their decision NOT to offer the SPS-LR series 700 model, in 7RUM? The 7RUM IS THEIR BABY, isn't it? What are they trying to do, abandon us "7" boys? I'm not sure if I could handle/accept the ballistic "hit" going from 7.21mm up to 7.62, on the same weight (120gr) bullet, in order to get in on their ultra-LR game. But if they ARE abandoning their youngest ultra-child, obviously it would not make any sense to be a hold-out, fighting the "tide", if that's the way it's headed. In the long-run, it would be better to jump on the bandwagon with them, if that IS the story on how it's going to go down. So I would (respectfully?) like to know what the REAL story on THAT is! OK, I've vented enough for now.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I personally think there are a few reasons why the 7rum is failing.
First, the 7rem is their baby and that's that.
Second is the fact that the 7rum has a lot of recoil for a 7mm.
Third, the 7rum needs a really long throat to keep from having pressure spikes, and re-loaders love to touch the lands for some reason; that will cause bad things to happen with the 7rum.
Fourth, they are probably tired of people whining about short barrel life, but 600 rounds or so-- come on.
Fifth, they had trouble with at least a few stainless barrels in 7rum having bad(over sized)chambers. I had one and fired rounds actually split two different sizing dies in two. Both a Redding and a Rcbs. The only time I've ever had to pull a warranty on a die. The thing shot like crap, but I should have re-barreled it myself instead of giving it back to the local store, as lh actions are tougher to find in full length stainless.
There are probably profit reasons too, and other things I've missed. I think rem is realizing their mistake dropping the 7stw as they have sps rifles out in 7stw new if you look around online. I was thinking of ordering one before I found my lefty 7mmstw.

 

[Max Heat]

Here is what I wouldn't mind having in 7RUM (but it IS limited to a 26" barrel): Centerfire Rifle - Model 700 SPS Long Range - Remington Centerfire Rifles Unfortunately, the only RUM that can be seen in THAT line-up is the 300. Maybe I need to warm up to the idea of switching to 300. But I just thought of something else that I've vested close to a bill into besides the 7RUM brass and dies. A 3-way trimmer cutting head for 7mm. And I'm NOT liking what was said about the possibility of ending up with something in which the RUM chamber might be over sized on. That's the LAST thing I'd need in a hotly loaded RUM (fear level goes up another notch). OK, my head is starting to spin from all this now. Since I don't want to make any decision that I am not going to be happy with later, I think this is what I should do for the time being, so I can at least be out there shooting, instead of being here complaining: I'll have my current 7mag 26" sporter barrel chambered out to either STW (but how is the brass availability/affordability on it these days?), or even 7RUM, which I could load right now and shoot, if only I had something to shoot them out of. And like JE said, it can always be loaded DOWN to STW levels, if I'm not comfortable burning 90 to 100 grains in it. I don't know what the throat looks like in that barrel, but that would completely freshen it also, right? This seems to be the most economical way to proceed for right now, also eliminating the pressure that I'm feeling after 4 months of playing the waiting game for nothing, to get SOMETHING into the fire.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Hey, that 7rum brass is just fine as 300 rum, it'll just need a pass through the 30 dies and load it. Your headstamp will be wrong, but I dare you to get one in a 7rum. Half of my 300 rum brass is really 7rum from the barrel I shot out.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I don't see the 300 wby or 375 h@h going anywhere, so even if Rem and nosler both pull the plug on 7stw brass and 8rem brass supplies dry up, you will still be able to easily form brass and shoot your rifle if you build a 7stw.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I've had both the 7 rum and stw in 26" rem barrels, and there isn't much difference in available speed with either. My rum ate the 140 sierra fb with 95 grains rl25 and a 215 in rem brass for 3500 fps. My stw ate 82 grains rl25 with either the 140 sierra or the 140 nos accubond in win brass with a 215 for 3425 fps. Both were full house loads developed before data came out for rl25 in those calibers, but were safe loads in my rifles (the 7stw even had a strain guage on it). I have seen over 3500 fps with the 7stw and 140's, and that's also roughly the top speed for the 7rum. That's about tops for both.