AR technique? - accuracy from the bench
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Tyler Kee
Well-Known Member
I actually just went through this frustrating exercise over the weekend! Here's what worked for me.
I run an Atlas bipod with the legs kicked forward a notch and extended enough that I can clear the grip from the table and not much more. I don't preload the bipod, and I use a tall sandbag under the stock that I "build" up a bit. I then settle in with the crosshairs under the target, and press my face down into the stock and smoosh the sandbag until I'm on.
FWIW, I also started shooting at squares a few years back after shooting at circles for years, and I did notice a pretty big difference in how repeatably I could shoot groups. Not sure what you use for targets, but I just draw 1/2" x 1/2" squares on grid paper, and I aim at the bottom left corner. Seems to have improved my shooting some. Your mileage might vary.
I run an Atlas bipod with the legs kicked forward a notch and extended enough that I can clear the grip from the table and not much more. I don't preload the bipod, and I use a tall sandbag under the stock that I "build" up a bit. I then settle in with the crosshairs under the target, and press my face down into the stock and smoosh the sandbag until I'm on.
FWIW, I also started shooting at squares a few years back after shooting at circles for years, and I did notice a pretty big difference in how repeatably I could shoot groups. Not sure what you use for targets, but I just draw 1/2" x 1/2" squares on grid paper, and I aim at the bottom left corner. Seems to have improved my shooting some. Your mileage might vary.
cohunt
Well-Known Member
Squares or diamonds work better than round dots for me too.
Make sure the bottom of the pistol grip or the magazine are not touching the bench...ar's have to sit higher on the bench than a bolt gun due to protrusions below the stock line.
Also, try 2 different styles of shooting to see if 1 is better than the other.
Freehold: put the rifle on bags (or whatever) use your trigger finger only on the trigger and use your other hand to squeeze the rear bag (or support the stock) and keep it lightly in your shoulder. Let it recoil "freely"
Hard hold: rest the rifle on bags, use your off hand on the handguard or front of Maxwell to pull down and back to firmly seat it on the bags and your shoulder .
Squeeze the trigger back all the way and hold it back until you see or hear your shot contact the target, then release the trigger.
Did you ever say what twist rate and what bullet you were shooting?
If they are handloads, do they show flattened primers or case head swipes?
Make sure the bottom of the pistol grip or the magazine are not touching the bench...ar's have to sit higher on the bench than a bolt gun due to protrusions below the stock line.
Also, try 2 different styles of shooting to see if 1 is better than the other.
Freehold: put the rifle on bags (or whatever) use your trigger finger only on the trigger and use your other hand to squeeze the rear bag (or support the stock) and keep it lightly in your shoulder. Let it recoil "freely"
Hard hold: rest the rifle on bags, use your off hand on the handguard or front of Maxwell to pull down and back to firmly seat it on the bags and your shoulder .
Squeeze the trigger back all the way and hold it back until you see or hear your shot contact the target, then release the trigger.
Did you ever say what twist rate and what bullet you were shooting?
If they are handloads, do they show flattened primers or case head swipes?
Had loads haven't shown pressure. 55gr ballistic tips
Barrel is 1-8 twist : hoping to harvest some accuracy out of green tip 62gr (work ammo)
Have multiple boxes of ammo with various bullet weights above 55 gr trying to find a decent starting bullet to load develop.
Thank You
Barrel is 1-8 twist : hoping to harvest some accuracy out of green tip 62gr (work ammo)
Have multiple boxes of ammo with various bullet weights above 55 gr trying to find a decent starting bullet to load develop.
Thank You
cohunt
Well-Known Member
Try some 69gr smk bullets with varget, accurate in every twist ive tried , 1:9 seem to shine with 52-55 gr , 1:8 seem to like 69's, 1:7 seem to like heavies but the house 69gr smk seem to shoot well in everything I have
I have never had any luck with 62gr green tip bullets, thy hey shoot like cra● in everything I've tried
mtwarych
Well-Known Member
OP,
Is your rifle still on target once you are done with the follow through of your shot?
Does the recoil cause the rifle to hop in one direction or another? Can you watch the bullet impact the target? If your rifle isn't still on target after the shot, something in the set-up and follow through is amiss.
As you know, a gasser is a completely different beast when it comes to the accuracy game.
There are quite a few videos on the market that shows proper body alignment, bipod load and bag rests.
I have a DPMS GII chambered in 7.62X51mm and the rifle is extremely accurate but I have to be on the ball to get the best from the rifle.
Take some time and do a little research and I would bet you and your rifle will start shooting how you want it.
Good luck and be patient, accuracy will take a little work and discipline but it will be well worth it when you get your first round hits 7 to 800 yards out.
Is your rifle still on target once you are done with the follow through of your shot?
Does the recoil cause the rifle to hop in one direction or another? Can you watch the bullet impact the target? If your rifle isn't still on target after the shot, something in the set-up and follow through is amiss.
As you know, a gasser is a completely different beast when it comes to the accuracy game.
There are quite a few videos on the market that shows proper body alignment, bipod load and bag rests.
I have a DPMS GII chambered in 7.62X51mm and the rifle is extremely accurate but I have to be on the ball to get the best from the rifle.
Take some time and do a little research and I would bet you and your rifle will start shooting how you want it.
Good luck and be patient, accuracy will take a little work and discipline but it will be well worth it when you get your first round hits 7 to 800 yards out.
The rifle is pretty bouncy. Looked at an attachment to see if it will ride the bag rest like my bench guns.
https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPHG-BFA
It's a good rifle, hits on steel out to 575 with green tips, just can't get it to shoot consistently enough to get any data during load development.
https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPHG-BFA
It's a good rifle, hits on steel out to 575 with green tips, just can't get it to shoot consistently enough to get any data during load development.
imyourhuckleberry
Well-Known Member
Your rifle is shooting 1.5" to 2" group in reality is a typical group for semi-auto rifles. Though it is possible to get smaller groups some upgrades have to be made such as better quality barrels, preferably a heavy barrel, maybe shimming the upper and lower parts to remove some of the slop, better triggers, and finally finding a bullet weight and load the rifle likes.
Have you considered doing some dry firing drills. In this particular case I would recommend the dime drill. Place a dime at the end of the barrel aim and than squeeze the trigger. If the dime falls from the barrel it is an indication that you are jerking. Do this until you can successfully squeeze the trigger several times consecutively without the dime falling. This too will help you control your breathing as well. One of my rifles a RRA shoots .680 5 shot groups at a 100 using 75 grain bullets using rl15 23.5 grains. I can not get it to group with lighter bullets. Just keep experimenting until you find what it likes. Like it or not it is a 22 caliber and every rifle is finicky .
Have you considered doing some dry firing drills. In this particular case I would recommend the dime drill. Place a dime at the end of the barrel aim and than squeeze the trigger. If the dime falls from the barrel it is an indication that you are jerking. Do this until you can successfully squeeze the trigger several times consecutively without the dime falling. This too will help you control your breathing as well. One of my rifles a RRA shoots .680 5 shot groups at a 100 using 75 grain bullets using rl15 23.5 grains. I can not get it to group with lighter bullets. Just keep experimenting until you find what it likes. Like it or not it is a 22 caliber and every rifle is finicky .
I run 1:9 twist in my three AR's in 223, Colt Hbar, Bushmaster Hbar, and Remington R-15 Varmint...all factory stock, except trigger. All produce .5MOA using 69gr SMK's, 25gr Varget, CCI Br4's, Lapua Brass. This load shoots great in all my AR's. I have a DPMS Varmint upper, 24", 1:9/twist that produces .25MOA; used for 200/300 yard egg shoots. I agree with prior posts with trying a heavier bullet(69gr+) in your 1:8 twist barrel. My bench/prone technique is an ATLAS bipod/rear bag. Firm straight back pull against the shoulder using the grip, VERY mild cheek pressure on the stock, rear bag control by the support hand.
DPMS upper on Bushmaster lower...Geiselle trigger, Accuwedge. 5 shot-100 Yards.
DPMS upper on Bushmaster lower...Geiselle trigger, Accuwedge. 5 shot-100 Yards.
Kansaswoodguy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2014
- Messages
- 773
I have many AR's I would say .3/4 to 1 MOA is about what they are typically capable of with a quality barrel, trigger and ammo. I shoot off of a uncle Buds Bulls bag as a front rest and protector rabbit ear rear rest. If I have a gun that will only shoot 2 MOA it gets rebarreled or sold, but it does happen I've had a couple over the years.
Find the good load, shoot the small square, and I keep a small amount of pressure on the tube in the front rest. Normal pressure on the stock. All of my AR shoot around.5. My 2moa dot rifles shoot moa with PMC Bronze 55 fmj. I will take the 1 moa with a dot gun all day. My .5 moa rifles are using a 20 power scope. Uppers and lowers dont have to be supper tight to shoot. A good barrel will shoot .5 all day with good ammo.
hunter67wa
Well-Known Member
I would check copper fouling. If that's not it then hot lap it.
