jhites
Member
Im loading 165gr sp w/about 40gr. Should i crimp them???
AR-10 308 win.
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Critter Picker
Well-Known Member
I don't crimp any of my AR loads. I do crimp some monolithic loads. Others swear by crimping.
In my opinion, if you go through a mag and the last round still has the bullet at the original position, you're good to go!
In my opinion, if you go through a mag and the last round still has the bullet at the original position, you're good to go!
para5063
Member
just process your brass with your desired neck interference (i.e. tension) and load away.
I don't crimp any of my rifle loads.
I don't crimp any of my rifle loads.
After your first shot extract the round that is just fed and check the OAL/CBTO and see if anything's changed. I put a light crimp on all my AR loads after experiencing OAL growth.
Have you rectified the other issues you've been having that are mentioned in your other thread?
Jamming up
OP has a duplicate post, https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/jamming-up.365021/#post-3159241 noob error. maybe we can get him to go cross-eyed in trying to keep up with the duplicate posts. 😆
crkckr
Well-Known Member
I pretty much crimp everything that goes into a mag except the ammo that I shoot out of my 20" bull barrel AR upper, which gets single fed. Mostly that's because it's got a light trigger and will double tap if I don't single load. But it's my most accurate AR so it gets babied in every way.
Even bullets without a cannelure get at least a slight crimp and I've never had any problems with bullet creep. My AR rounds get "crimped" with an old cut down neck size die that I use to put a 1/8th inch crimp on everything that will be fed from a magazine. On the AR10 I would use a regular crimp die and put a slight crimp even on bullets without the cannelure. The heavier the bullet the more the need for a crimp. I test by taking the last round in a mag and run it thru 3 mags, including chambering and extraction, measuring the OAL after each mag. If there's no creep, I feel it's good to go. In addition, I do not use an expander ball or mandrel for 'regular' rounds except those loaded specifically for accuracy. I want as much neck tension as I can get, short of glueing the bullets in!
Cheers,
crkckr
Even bullets without a cannelure get at least a slight crimp and I've never had any problems with bullet creep. My AR rounds get "crimped" with an old cut down neck size die that I use to put a 1/8th inch crimp on everything that will be fed from a magazine. On the AR10 I would use a regular crimp die and put a slight crimp even on bullets without the cannelure. The heavier the bullet the more the need for a crimp. I test by taking the last round in a mag and run it thru 3 mags, including chambering and extraction, measuring the OAL after each mag. If there's no creep, I feel it's good to go. In addition, I do not use an expander ball or mandrel for 'regular' rounds except those loaded specifically for accuracy. I want as much neck tension as I can get, short of glueing the bullets in!
Cheers,
crkckr
The same here. I have a few crimp dies, but I have yet to find the need to use them.
I do not crimp my 308 rounds for my M&P 10. I haven't seen the need, especially with bullets w/o a cannelure. If you're concerned about creep, perhaps a taper crimp.
crkckr
Well-Known Member
Taper crimp is all I use except on revolver rounds and even then, the only thing that gets a roll crimp are 38 Special self defense loads (and anything bigger). All lead or coated bullet loads get taper crimped, even on the .44 Mag.
Cheers,
crkckr
Cheers,
crkckr
UncleDano
Well-Known Member
My AR-10 308 has such light recoil (and most do) that I have never considered doing crimped bullets.
In fact, I have never crimped any of my rifle loads except .458x2" with 405gr. lead.
44hunter45
Member
If the cannelure is in the right place for me, I'll use it. I gently flare all my case mouths, so I use the LFC to "iron out" the flare. I wouldn't call that a crimp though.
I also own an Ultimate Cannelure Tool. This thing makes the Corbin version cry. I don't think you can get them anymore. I can put a cannelure wherever I want on any bullet, even a copper or bronze monolith. But who would want to?
I used it primarily to give me the full use of the long cylinders on my Ruger revolvers. Then I went almost 100% cast. It was amazing for experimenting with the 45 Colt in the Blackhawk Hunter.
I am using it again on my 358 Norma loads. Not changing the BC much on a 310 grain RN by adding a crimping groove.
I also own an Ultimate Cannelure Tool. This thing makes the Corbin version cry. I don't think you can get them anymore. I can put a cannelure wherever I want on any bullet, even a copper or bronze monolith. But who would want to?
I used it primarily to give me the full use of the long cylinders on my Ruger revolvers. Then I went almost 100% cast. It was amazing for experimenting with the 45 Colt in the Blackhawk Hunter.
I am using it again on my 358 Norma loads. Not changing the BC much on a 310 grain RN by adding a crimping groove.
