Got a stainless 308 on sale. All parts I got from Amazon or home - Compression Springs Assortment Kit, Thrust Ball Bearings Small FM Series Pack 2 Set F6-12M - 6x12x4.5mm (if you can find 6x11mm will be better). Screw from the light box - one holding the bar you mount the fixture to the box. turned to be a matching ). Old credit card. Drill. Sandpaper. Epoxy (don't use tabletop cause way too long drying time). Bondo.Adjustable Cheek Rest Riser .125".
All in spent 16 CAD for trigger job parts and probably all 100 CAD for check raiser, bondo, epoxy, recoil eraser etc. Epoxy and bondo do cost quite a bit but you use only a little and I ll use it around the house.
Stock:
step 1: Shaved stock (super easy with a decent knife) to improve clearance for free-floating as one side was a little warped.
step 2: Used a hot screw to mark the inside the stock and drilled small holes through the reinforcement ribs... put about halfway bbs to the portion closer to magweld 1/3 starting from a little further away and closer to where you hold it a bit more. poured epoxy.
step 3: I messed it up a little. Unscrew the recoil pad. Took a plastic bag, and put inside, poor epoxy. I did not fill in in full. you can do it in stages putting little to the bottom half of the stock first to maintain the balance you'd like. I used Bondo to put it into the stock spacer portion making the balance move to the shoulder a bit as the rifle becomes heavier
step 4: used JB weld to skim bed stock.
step 5: drilled holes and installed riser.
Action:
Bolt - I have 2 spring designs on the firing pin, so green spring no touch, and the spacer comes out. carefully cut about 4mm of the second spring which has the tail. Try to cut it in a way where it will hold the ball bearing closer to 90 degrees to the firing pin once installed. Put back together. Used the opportunity to give a bit of the polish to where I found things can use it.
Personally, I have removed 1 more coil and did not put any spacers... Much better and smoother bolt operation and you can do it while on target with a bit of practice.... Stock one you had to really bump it or get the rifle down from the shoulder..
If you have a washer which can do as a spacer for a bolt handle I'd suggest doing that rather than spring mode. just so you can always go back and just washers where you adjust so you can have light bolt without light strikes.. some reported having light strikes on stock (!!!) bolt .. I never had it myself .. but better safe then sorry.
Trigger job:
Stock spring goes out. The screw goes in perfectly .. Adjust it to the desired overtravel. Mark the screw. I left about 2 mm for future adjustment and cut the rest off. then used Dremel to cut for a flat screwdriver from 1 side. Measure the portion which will be outside of the trigger where the spring is. Put it into the drill and use sandpaper or a file, to create a "post" for the spring to be on. polish so spring does not touch/interfere and if it is it's smooth. Loctite.. screw in to desired overtravel. Use an old credit card - cut out the washer to eliminate trigger side-to-side movement. Put the trigger spring - my kid had a length just enough as I wanted to (don't go too long cause it makes the pull inconsistent when the spring is fully collapsed). My trigger pool is 2.7 pounds. Bump test - no issues. (rubber mallet and then I did a full-on drop test).
Conclusion:
Trigger is crisp and no overtravel.
I can cycle bolt while holding on target
Recoil change from throwing barrel up to fairly straight into the shoulder.
Total weight ~ 8.6 pounds with stock scope installed. (I know on the heavy side, but I wanted a better manageable recoil rather than a super light setup)
Last addition:
We're not able to find the Picatinny base so had to use Dremel and file to modify the Weaver base set which came with a rifle to fit the rings I had.
Installed burris 3-12x56 Ballistic E3
