-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Another New Dummy
- Thread starter gamehauler
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
OK, New guestion.
There is a stock on Ebay I am watching
the seller says it has been bedded and floated.
I am guessing that this would only be good for that action
and not mine.
Would I need to skim bed it or what?
Mike
There is a stock on Ebay I am watching
the seller says it has been bedded and floated.
I am guessing that this would only be good for that action
and not mine.
Would I need to skim bed it or what?
Mike
AJ Peacock
Well-Known Member
Typically the bedding is only good for that action/recoil lug.
You might get away with skim bedding, but inletting deeper so the new bedding has a good thickness is much better. Also, depending on what was used to bed it in the first place, you might want to remove the old bedding, as he might have used something that isn't as solid as you would want.
Do you know what it was bedded with?
AJ
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
He does not say but said the job was done by a professioal gun builder.
I could Email him back and ask.
Mike
I could Email him back and ask.
Mike
AJ Peacock
Well-Known Member
If someone else did it, he probably won't know. If it was done by a 'professional' they probably used good stuff.
I've never skim bedded anything. I always just remove the old bedding down to the stock and start from there. It can be a bit of a job.
Someone will chime in that's skim bedded and give some input here.
AJ
I've never skim bedded anything. I always just remove the old bedding down to the stock and start from there. It can be a bit of a job.
Someone will chime in that's skim bedded and give some input here.
AJ
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
I have come to realization I want too much to happen Too fast light bulb
I would like to be set up and comfortable with my set up by September.
Im really not sure I can do this on my own.
I guess what I am saying is there someone in Central Arizona with the know how to make this happen without getting raped.
Thanks again everyone for all your feedback
Except you BB
Just kidding, I almost sneezed at that one fell off.
Just wait till I get to know you guys bettter
Mike
I would like to be set up and comfortable with my set up by September.
Im really not sure I can do this on my own.
I guess what I am saying is there someone in Central Arizona with the know how to make this happen without getting raped.
Thanks again everyone for all your feedback
Except you BB
Just kidding, I almost sneezed at that one fell off.
Just wait till I get to know you guys bettter
Mike
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Mike,
Too much too fast???
I choked on a piece of peanut brittle the other day. Everyone was looking at me like I was nuts, (pun not intended).
Nearly saw the light at the end of the tunnel. It was way closer and much dimmer than anticipated.
I don't think too fast is a bad thing as long is it is done in order and in the proper priority.
Too much too fast???
I choked on a piece of peanut brittle the other day. Everyone was looking at me like I was nuts, (pun not intended).
Nearly saw the light at the end of the tunnel. It was way closer and much dimmer than anticipated.
I don't think too fast is a bad thing as long is it is done in order and in the proper priority.
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
The Dummy is back
I have been serfing my fingers off and at this point
I am leaning towards the Nikon MonarchX 4-16X50
A 20 power would be nice but I would rather not have a low power setting around 6 so the 4-16 looks better for me.
My question at this point is why would you need Mil Dots
on a scope if you can dial in your variables?
I think the NikoPlex would be better
Most of the tactical scopes have MIlDots and I am just not sure why
Told Ya!! New Dummy
Mike
I have been serfing my fingers off and at this point
I am leaning towards the Nikon MonarchX 4-16X50
A 20 power would be nice but I would rather not have a low power setting around 6 so the 4-16 looks better for me.
My question at this point is why would you need Mil Dots
on a scope if you can dial in your variables?
I think the NikoPlex would be better
Most of the tactical scopes have MIlDots and I am just not sure why
Told Ya!! New Dummy
Mike
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Mil Dots are supposed to be good for ranging. Not true! That is unless all animals are the exact same size. Never happens.
Mil Dots are supposed to be good for hold over. They are pretty fair for that but only fair. Figure 3.6" per mil at 100 and 36" at 1K. Each Mil do should be 0.2 Mils in diameer. That makes the bottom of the dot 0.1 mil low and the top of the next dot down 0.1 mil high. Say your at 1K, thus you have 0.8 mils to discern or ~29". A half mil is easy to discern. Just split the difference and bracket the target with the two dots.
But say the drop chart says 0.7 mils. That is hard to discern from point 8 or point 6 and 0.2 Mils at 1K is ~7". That will miss a chuck, PD or yote easily.
Using the Mil Dots for hold over/under is way faster than clicking, depending on the scope. But for me it has, in several cases just caused me to miss faster.
Now take the IOR and MP-8 reticle in MOA @ 18X and you have 20 MOA in 1 MOA increments to use. That would make clicking pretty much unnecessary, I think.
I don't think that there would be anyone who would argue that clicking isn't more accurate than hold over/under.
BTW, I appreciate you low power consideration. That's why I'm strongly considering a 3-18.
HTH.
Mil Dots are supposed to be good for hold over. They are pretty fair for that but only fair. Figure 3.6" per mil at 100 and 36" at 1K. Each Mil do should be 0.2 Mils in diameer. That makes the bottom of the dot 0.1 mil low and the top of the next dot down 0.1 mil high. Say your at 1K, thus you have 0.8 mils to discern or ~29". A half mil is easy to discern. Just split the difference and bracket the target with the two dots.
But say the drop chart says 0.7 mils. That is hard to discern from point 8 or point 6 and 0.2 Mils at 1K is ~7". That will miss a chuck, PD or yote easily.
Using the Mil Dots for hold over/under is way faster than clicking, depending on the scope. But for me it has, in several cases just caused me to miss faster.
Now take the IOR and MP-8 reticle in MOA @ 18X and you have 20 MOA in 1 MOA increments to use. That would make clicking pretty much unnecessary, I think.
I don't think that there would be anyone who would argue that clicking isn't more accurate than hold over/under.
BTW, I appreciate you low power consideration. That's why I'm strongly considering a 3-18.
HTH.
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
Thanks Roy
Who has a 3-18
Mike
Who has a 3-18
Mike
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Contact Roll-Yur-Own on this forum. He's the one that put be on to them.
Thanks Roy
Who has a 3-18
Mike
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
Will DoThanks.
Mike
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
A friend said he thinks he knows where he can pick up a Burris XTR
ExtremeTactical in 3-12X50 at maybe a good price.
While he is checking on it I have been searching and have really not found much feedback on this scope.
What do you guys think about this scope for my needs?
Mike
ExtremeTactical in 3-12X50 at maybe a good price.
While he is checking on it I have been searching and have really not found much feedback on this scope.
What do you guys think about this scope for my needs?
Mike
gamehauler
Well-Known Member
Well I won the stock on ebay and it came yesterday.
My action fits the bedding like a bug in a rug but I will have someone who knows bedding look at it.
My concern about the comb being to low is not a problem.
Its to tall for me to look thru the scope without pushing down
harder than I would like.
Still have not made my mine up on a scope yet but looks like whatever it is it will have a 1" tube.
So now it's time to think about new taller rings that are good but won't break the bank.
Thanks, Mike (TD)
My action fits the bedding like a bug in a rug but I will have someone who knows bedding look at it.
My concern about the comb being to low is not a problem.
Its to tall for me to look thru the scope without pushing down
harder than I would like.
Still have not made my mine up on a scope yet but looks like whatever it is it will have a 1" tube.
So now it's time to think about new taller rings that are good but won't break the bank.
Thanks, Mike (TD)
Last edited:
