Another bedding question

[WV Sendero]

I have some questions about bedding. Is skim bedding useful in a stock like HS's where you have the aluminum bedding block? I have also read that in these stocks you can just bed the recoil lug is this true? (seems much easier for the inexperienced like myself) And lastly should you bed the whole recoil lug area? If not how do you just bed the back or everything but the bottom etc.?

Sorry for all the questions but I am a little confused on what is best for me to do and how to do it. I have bedded 2 bedding block rifles: one full skim (HS) and one just the recoil lug (B&C Medalist) but I bedded the whole lug area on both and I'm just not sure if I screwed up. I am considering doing this to my new Sendero 7mm and also my 300 RUM (both are HS) but I want to make sure it is worth the effort and if it is I want to do it right.

I searched and found some info on this but most of it pertained to Weatherbys and it sounded like they may be a little different. All of the rifles I mentioned are Remington 700s.

Thanks in advance for the help. Every time I have asked for advice on this forum everyone has been a great help.

 

[Oliveralan]

Yes it is useful, look at what all competitive shooters are doing. The best is to float the action and stock, using a barrel block, secondly, and much more doable, is to bed the whole reciever (except on some like savages where you float the tang). I just did this 45minutes ago. Either tomorrow I'll post about my new rifle, or a new post filled with explict words asking how to unglue an action from a stock

So far it's been a fun and satisfying activity.

 

[WV Sendero]

Yes it is useful, look at what all competitive shooters are doing. The best is to float the action and stock, using a barrel block, secondly, and much more doable, is to bed the whole reciever (except on some like savages where you float the tang). I just did this 45minutes ago. Either tomorrow I'll post about my new rifle, or a new post filled with explict words asking how to unglue an action from a stock

So far it's been a fun and satisfying activity.

As far as bedding the the recoil lug area did you bed the whole lug or did you just bed the back or what? If you don't bed the whole lug area what did you use to just bed part of it? Also what is the reason that only part of the lug area is bedded on some rifles?

 

[Oliveralan]

I only bedded the back. I put a layer of tape on the sides, bottom, and front. That will give a few thousandths clearance. The recoil lug is there to transfer recoil to the stock evenly, that's a rearward force, if you bed all sides, it can be near impossible to pull the action out.

 

[WV Sendero]

I only bedded the back. I put a layer of tape on the sides, bottom, and front. That will give a few thousandths clearance. The recoil lug is there to transfer recoil to the stock evenly, that's a rearward force, if you bed all sides, it can be near impossible to pull the action out.

I bedded all sides on my other rifles and they popped right out. With that said, if I try that again they may not. Other than getting it out of the stock is there any other reason not to do that? I hope I didn't screw up in doing that.

Thanks for the advice by the way, it's always good to hear other's thoughts/experiences.

 

[Oliveralan]

I can't say if it hurts anything, but as far as I know it's common practice to only bed the back. There is probably a reason for it, but I don't know it.

 

[JUDD]

It not in an HS stock but this is bedded by Montour county rifles. Even it it has a chassis I would still skim bed the action. This was for a BAT HR action which is a R700 clone.

 

[WV Sendero]

It not in an HS stock but this is bedded by Montour county rifles. Even it it has a chassis I would still skim bed the action. This was for a BAT HR action which is a R700 clone.

Nice looking stock. Sure would support the action well.

 

[JUDD]

This is my new rifle Kevin is building me as we speak. It shold be done in aout 2-3 weeks. It is almost a clone of anoter he built except for the action is a BAT. The last one he built was on a model 7 action and it shot awesome. That rifle shot bughole groups at 100 yards and it connected with groundhogs out to 1220 yards.

Without a doubt this one will shoot as good or better.

 

[Kiwi Nate]

I always give the HS stock a full and proper bedding job. I use a rotary burr to remove some of the ali stock, then commence bedding.

The problem with a light shim of bedding compound is that the fine layer lacks strength and consistency (regardless of brand). In most cases, the job also ends up sitting too high and the whole job has to be done all over again.

If you try to go even further, adding a small blob of compound to the recoil lug area, the results can be unpredictable. The job can end up with pinch points or again, can end up to brittle.

Either do a full bedding job, or shape the ali to a perfect fit.

If you want to go minimalist, Araldyte (5min epoxy) the action to the ali block. To do this, prep the action with a release agent (even car wax will do), apply a small amount of epoxy to the bedding platform, fit the action, screw it in place and leave it. With this method, the rifle will be accurate but you cannot dissasemble the rifle for cleaning regularly. Each time you disassemble it, you will have to clean up the epoxy and start over.

Like I say, my preference is to do the job properly so that it lasts for many years. I don't have my HS stock in bits at the moment but the pic supplied is identical to how I go about the job (actually my wife did this bedding job, she is a pro with the M700's). I wrote a full bedding tutorial a while back and published it online. If you get a chance, have a read:

https://secure.zeald.com/ballistics...e With MatchGrade Bedding Compound?mv_pc=6691

Hope that helps. Nathan.

 

[elkaholic]

I bedded all sides on my other rifles and they popped right out. With that said, if I try that again they may not. Other than getting it out of the stock is there any other reason not to do that? I hope I didn't screw up in doing that.

Thanks for the advice by the way, it's always good to hear other's thoughts/experiences.

I've always thought that the only surface that you want touching the lug is the back where it recoils against. I always clearance everything else......Rich

 

[Kiwi Nate]

+1. The sides and front have to be relieved otherwise the rifle will double group and generally be finnicky, followed by the- my rifle doesn't like such and such a bullet or such and such a load and will only shoot one particular load based on the harmonics that load produces- frustrating.