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Another accubond question

I do believe they do have a pure copper jacket, from what I've heard. I hav to think that if they are a little softer, then they should outperform the accubonds for that matter. I have heard on many occasions that they are excellent performers in terms of accuracy. But, ya, if I or anyone gets them to shoot well; then by all means shoot em! I'm just bumbed that they are not made in the 140 for my .280's, and they also aren't made in the 160's or heavier for my 7RUM. Or for gods sakes 200gr for everyone out there with a 30cal:) I don't think that swift has very many offerings for the scirocco. With them being pure copper jacket and fouling more I don't think that with a properly broken in rifle that there shouldn't be significantly more fouling as far as I'm concerned. Like I heard another forum member say," you gotta clean your rifle anyway". A small price to pay for a possibly better terminally performing bullet for longrange, or lower impact velocity in other words.
 
I'm not trying to be a smartass but the gun looks like it weighs more than the deer and you might be just a TAD overgunned.
It looks to me like it did very well at (getting the job done)! Kudos to Ridgerunner! You couldn't ask for anything more in a rifle. That's exactly what a well executed plan looks like. Oh, by the way (Gonewest ) my 22-250 looks just like the gun in the pic and is approx the same size too!
 
I'm sorry but with all do respect the 22-250 and other like cartridges have been responsible for the taking of countless number of whitetails. And there are many guys who are glad to call such their "deer rifles" and use them with great effectivness. Who cares if the gun weighs more than the deer, my point is, it got the job done with great results too, whether at 2yds or 739.56yds. Overgunned or not, dead is dead no matter if it is a tiny exit hole or a basketball sized exit hole. If I want to use a 50bmg for deer I am sure it will be effective, and I won't feel overgunned, as long as I know that deer is not going to run off and suffer. Who cares if the gun weighs more than the deer does. Dead is dead.
 
My point is fawn size deer and basketball exit holes = WHAT Coyote Bait? Maybe you should shoot at bigger deer or get closer so you can see they are a fawn and not a doe.
 
gone your an idiot, that is a mature doe here, note the flat forehead! does here run 80-100 pounds, fawns 40-50, mature bucks if ya get a big one 140, I can do alot of things but I can't make deer bigger than they are. the rifle in the pic is 53" long, if you think its a fawn tough, didn't know I had to answer to you before I pulled the trigger.
RR
 
RR don't call me an idiot when you the one that uses a 7MM Allen Mag for a so called 80-100lb deer. I think you have alot more gun than sense. How does blood shot meat taste Eh.
 
RR don't call me an idiot when you the one that uses a 7MM Allen Mag for a so called 80-100lb deer. I think you have alot more gun than sense. How does blood shot meat taste Eh.

Give it up GONE! Nobody on this forum is interested in your smart remarks.
 
Well I washed my hands, but I tried tho.
On back to the topic before. Elkaholic; can I ask what type of bullet you are making yourself? Solid copper or lead core or is it something different from that? I'm interested in hearing how they perform.
Meatyrem
 
I make a conventional style pure lead core, copper jacket bullet. The differences from other shelf bullets are: Rebated boat tail, VLD/metal ballistic tip. I use a thin nose jacket and sometimes serrate the nose. My B.C.'s are higher than any conventional bullets including target varieties. The idea is for effective long range hunting. My bullets are extremely accurate. I shot some 2-3" groups this fall at 880 yards with some 190 SXR's in my 300 Sherman. The 190 has a B.C. of .616. They will expand down to 1600' or lower! I also make the same basic design in a bonded variety, that will withstand higher velocity, and am working on a partition variety with the same B.C. I also make a "double jacket" bonded version of the same style which works well at all ranges. Send me your personal e-mail if you would like to see some pics.........Rich
 
I'm not trying to be a smartass but the gun looks like it weighs more than the deer and you might be just a TAD overgunned.
There is no such thing as overgunned:D
The guys and gals of this forum are LR, WHICH LOOSELY translates into, it takes more KE@ 1000 YRDS for the given bullet to do its job. That bullet, which is typically heavier per caliber,is usually driven at higher velocity.Also we no a s Texas deer is not same proportions as a N Canadian buck.Side note, When I was younger and on a 20 mile jaunt. I had a special cow tag in the big hole and shot one far back behind some private. On way out I went by ranch and asked permision to drag out. Well that old timer helped me load up and drove me to camp. Showed me some neat video of a 7x7 in archery and his trusty 22-250 rifle sat in the truck. I was packing my 340 WM, which I used to head shoot cow. I made a comment about his varmint gun, and that is when he told me that rifle had taken 20+ ELK. HE WALKED the somewhat open lodgepole, 80-100 yrd visabiity, and when he found his elk he put one in the noggin:D
 
I love my Accubonds and they have done the job for me without fail. I know that they will not fail if my life depends on the bullets preformance on Kodiak Island. I have a self impossed range of 600 yards however.

I am going to be testing these during the spring bear season though.
Cutting Edge Bullets

Neal
 
I make a conventional style pure lead core, copper jacket bullet. The differences from other shelf bullets are: Rebated boat tail, VLD/metal ballistic tip. I use a thin nose jacket and sometimes serrate the nose. My B.C.'s are higher than any conventional bullets including target varieties. The idea is for effective long range hunting. My bullets are extremely accurate. I shot some 2-3" groups this fall at 880 yards with some 190 SXR's in my 300 Sherman. The 190 has a B.C. of .616. They will expand down to 1600' or lower! I also make the same basic design in a bonded variety, that will withstand higher velocity, and am working on a partition variety with the same B.C. I also make a "double jacket" bonded version of the same style which works well at all ranges. Send me your personal e-mail if you would like to see some pics.........Rich

I tried to send via pm, but if it didn't go through here it [email protected]. That is very impressive, sounds like you know what your doing. Can you spin out many at a time or is it somewhat slower? .616bc! And just out of a 190. Wow I could o ly imagine what a 210gr or220gr bc could be. Sounds like your on the right track. Are you making them for your own use or to eventually make available to others?
 
I make a conventional style pure lead core, copper jacket bullet. The differences from other shelf bullets are: Rebated boat tail, VLD/metal ballistic tip. I use a thin nose jacket and sometimes serrate the nose. My B.C.'s are higher than any conventional bullets including target varieties. The idea is for effective long range hunting. My bullets are extremely accurate. I shot some 2-3" groups this fall at 880 yards with some 190 SXR's in my 300 Sherman. The 190 has a B.C. of .616. They will expand down to 1600' or lower! I also make the same basic design in a bonded variety, that will withstand higher velocity, and am working on a partition variety with the same B.C. I also make a "double jacket" bonded version of the same style which works well at all ranges. Send me your personal e-mail if you would like to see some pics.........Rich

Elkaholic,

It seems to me that the partition style would be the best of both worlds. You can make the front of the bullet as soft as you like for extreme ranges while the partion portion of the bullet will remain in tact for the close/high velocity impacts. Very cool!

Does your partition variety have a plastic tip and a boattail?

Cross
 
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