Advice needed with ladder test

Just going by your velocities I have a question. Is your brass sorted in any way? Your speeds seem to be junping around up/down more than what I normally see, which likely means some part of the prep is off. Ladder tests work great, but your loading practices need to be pretty well on point. Brass prep is huge in getting consistent results.
 
Just going by your velocities I have a question. Is your brass sorted in any way? Your speeds seem to be junping around up/down more than what I normally see, which likely means some part of the prep is off. Ladder tests work great, but your loading practices need to be pretty well on point. Brass prep is huge in getting consistent results.
I am pretty sure my technique needs improvement, but this is what I do:
neck sizing and de-priming with Lee die
clean in a wet tumbler
salt bath annealing
wash
primer pocket uniforming
neck sizing with Lee die
inside flash hole deburring
measure the length and trim if necessary
deburring and chamfering
case weight I keep only the ones that are 186.0 to 186.9 grain
check run out
prime and set bullet, lee die and rcbs chargemaster lite
check bullet run out

I am still looking for a good video on reloading techniques, the problem is how do I know which one is true from the millions that are out there on youtube. I live in Canada, I can't even find a decent training program (that I know off).
 
I am pretty sure my technique needs improvement, but this is what I do:
neck sizing and de-priming with Lee die
neck sizing with Lee die
Why do you neck size twice?

I would recommend a universal deprimer, and then size it later after it has been annealed. You're working the neck twice, which does not help.
 
If i may; what's the consensus on load workup? Is a ladder required or can one simply look for for the lowest velocity spread over a chronograph? Are both simultaneously preferred if possible?
 
going by velocity only is COIN TOSS...GOOD LUCK WITH THAT. GROUP NODES and VELOCITY FOR A REAL LADDER. short cuts end up with poor results. if you were following a 6.5 guru(lol) what ask us ?
 
going by velocity only is COIN TOSS...GOOD LUCK WITH THAT. GROUP NODES and VELOCITY FOR A REAL LADDER. short cuts end up with poor results. if you were following a 6.5 guru(lol) what ask us ?
It's not my intention to offend people, I am asking everyone for the advice and adjust it to my situation/capabilities. I went with Scott's suggestion because many people suggested a similar approach and he also has a track record that somehow validates his skills.
https://www.precisionrifleseries.com/profiles/shooter/312/
 
I am pretty sure my technique needs improvement, but this is what I do:
neck sizing and de-priming with Lee die
clean in a wet tumbler
salt bath annealing
wash
primer pocket uniforming
neck sizing with Lee die
inside flash hole deburring
measure the length and trim if necessary
deburring and chamfering
case weight I keep only the ones that are 186.0 to 186.9 grain
check run out
prime and set bullet, lee die and rcbs chargemaster lite
check bullet run out

I am still looking for a good video on reloading techniques, the problem is how do I know which one is true from the millions that are out there on youtube. I live in Canada, I can't even find a decent training program (that I know off).
I doubt you will find anything in Canada, I live in BC and haven't heard of an advanced course anywhere. There have been some basic reloading courses run in calgary.

I do a fairly similar prep,
Deprime, anneal, wet stainless pin tumbler, resize, trim/debur and neck turn if needed.
I use a gempro 300 scale and hand trickle to the last granule of powder, I try to stay +\- .02gr. I use either redding or whidden dies (fav is whidden fl bushing size/redding comp seater).
I did find my es number crept up when I switched to ss pin tumbling. But I like shiney cases.. next thing I am going to try is hbn coating on bullets. I think the necks may be a bit too clean, the carbon buildup may give a bit more consistent release. Hbn should help with that.
 
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