Advice for grouping

[Mram10us]

First, do not get disappointed when you don't see 1/2 moa groups. Go out to a range and see how many guys can actually shoot 1/2 moa groups at 500 with a hunting rifle. If you are shooting one minute groups at 500 yards you are doing just fine for a light hunting rifle. Scope power, front and rear support devices, trigger and winds all play a big part.

 

[misterc01]

When I first started shooting long distance, I started with factory ammo, since i was not reloading, and that got me a nice collection of once-fired brass. My rifle liked Hornady 168gr A-Max black. Started reloading and used the A-Max as my baseline. So time passes, and after getting to where I can reload what I consider some decent precision long range ammo for me, I find the main two keys for now are consistency of the reloads and the operator.

 

[snox801]

You could always just send it out to get custom load work done.
I sent mine out to hammer Bullets and got my 300 win mag back and it shoots amazing. Then they send you loaded ammo you can get more of.
I would also try hammer Bullets. Everything I have put them in love them. I've only loaded for 3 and all load charges from start to finish were all under.5" at 100.

 

[Timbersquatch]

Earlier comment seems right to me about getting less than 1 MOA @ hundred with store bought ammo. That's pretty good for hunting purposes. You can improve on that with reloading for your specific rifle if you have good tools, components and precise methods. By the way, the 130 gr SST in your 270 could be a nice choice. My 300 WSM shoots best groups with 150 gr SST bullets period. Other rifles I have prefer Sierra Gamekings, Nos.Accubonds. Reloading lets you find the bullet, powder, primer, case, and measurements you and your rifle prefers. I won't say optimum cuz don't know what that looks like ... Good for hunting 4 me is consistently hitting coffee cup size saucer at 4-500 yds with my handloads and bullets that will perform well on big game(not match bullets) and a solid rest. Many BR and Long Range guys can do that over longer distances than 500 but my eyes and skills cant do that even using their rifles/loads. Be realistic, smart, and careful and you can become a better shooter with reloading..imho

Funny thing about what you said regarding the 130 grain sst. Because that bullet has also shot really well out of my gun. Last time I shot those, I got 2x, 3 round groups about .82 MOA @ 100 yards. So I always have those as a backup reloading option if some reason I cant seem to tweak the Bergers. But yeah I'm hoping to work a load that will get a consistent tight group out to 500 yes. I dont have the set up, time, or money to go beyond that.........for now at least

 

[Timbersquatch]

While im on here, I got a 30-06 with a 1:10 twist that I would like to work a load up for too. I know the ole odd 6 isn't much for long distance shooting compared to some of the new calibers being produced. I think it's still capable of 500 yard shots no problem. Any of you guys got experience with a bullet weight that works well in a 1:10 twist rate?

 

[Mram10us]

Built this for some military caliber competitions and have some test ladders made up for tomorrow. I'll let ya know.
Ps- don't laugh at the color or punisher cerakote on the cheekrest Wife said she wanted to see the red cerakote and I was just thrilled she gave a crap.

 

[L.Sherm]

Any of you guys got experience with a bullet weight that works well in a 1:10 twist rate?

It will work all the way up to a 215.

 

[Wolf76]

While im on here, I got a 30-06 with a 1:10 twist that I would like to work a load up for too. I know the ole odd 6 isn't much for long distance shooting compared to some of the new calibers being produced. I think it's still capable of 500 yard shots no problem. Any of you guys got experience with a bullet weight that works well in a 1:10 twist rate?

165 with ~57gr of imr 4350.

 

[James Pearson]

I just went through development on the 145 ELD-X. I have two .270's, 22" barrels and they both hated the factory ammo. But I do reload and I'm hard headed, so I set to it and finally got a load developed in one rifle that is sub MOA and tapping an 8" plate at 600 yards. It is actually performing better at distance than at 200!

I think that the heavier bullet is stabilizing better at range. MV is 3014 +/- 6Fps on the chrony, zeroed at 200 with about a .85" group.

I too just acquired a new Sako .270 24" that I'm sending out for additional work before I start with it. Looking forward to better range and MOA with the Sako, hopefully.

Sending your gun out or having a local Smith work up a load for you could get you going until you put together your own loading. If you ever do, you'll never run factory ammo again.

Good luck!

 

[Coyote_Hunter]

What is "factory ammo"?

OK, I have a few boxes on my shelves, along with thousands of handloads. Every time I buy a new rifle I shoot a few factory rounds through it to get an idea what to expect in the way the primers look afterwards, zeroing the scope, etc. One thing I pay little to no attention to is group size with factory ammo.

All my rifles are hunters. Some shoot half MOA or better, others just over MOA and some of the levers about 1.5MOA. I've achieved hits on clay pigeons on the 600-yard berm with multiple rifles, including .257 Roberts, 6.5-06AI, .280 Rem, 7mm RM, .30-06, .300WM and .338WM. Not every shot is a hit, but 40% hit rates are fairly common with some of the rifles when the wind cooperates and 80% is my high.

With factory ammo I might have to search long and hard for that kind of success. 10" steel plates at 600, not so much.

 

[Mram10us]

CH,
I have never considered using factory ammo to give a reference for primers. I like that idea