Check this out https://ballisticrecreations.ca/
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A question about anealing?
- Thread starter WildBillG
- Start date
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I bought this setup and have done well over 1000 big caliber stuff. Mainly 300wsm, 28 nosler, 300rum, 338 edge.
DUSTY NOGGIN
Well-Known Member
https://utahgunexchange.com/ads/annealing-machines/
just a local classified ad .. i cant vouch for him .. but its a quick easy way to do em
here a link for tempilaq
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=877-000-001
just a local classified ad .. i cant vouch for him .. but its a quick easy way to do em
here a link for tempilaq
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=877-000-001
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I looked at all
If annealing methods. As usual there's positive and negative opinions on most, especially salt bath annealing. I bought the salt bath annealing system and that works great for all my annealing. To me the initial investment was worth what I paid for the system; cannot afford the more expensive systems and find no need for them.
Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
Not at all!
I went the Anraleez route and should have it soon. I never knew enough about the salt bath method to really look at it. Like others I figured it would corosive on the brass. One should really learn to so some research shouldn't one LOL.
Doesn't corrode the brass from my experience or any literature I've read. It doesn't have time with 5-8 seconds in the bath then thrown in a bucket of water. There is a lot of bad info about SBA. There are some great threads at Accurate shoote that debunk them.
Presently I have done at least a 1000 cases, never any issues including corrosion of any kind. The problem with salt bath annealing is that it has gotten a number of ill informed reviews. My only complaint with the salt bath annealing is getting the melting pot set up and keeping the temperature the same during the annealing process; and....even that is not an issue.
When we talk about heat not staying constant, we are talking +/- 10 deg C, which is nothing when it comes to the brass being annealed. Metalurgy tables do a great job showing the temps for SBA are much better than a 3k-5k flame.
Kmccord
Well-Known Member
I have read an account of one person that mentioned not to anneal in the salt bath with primer installed.. I thought everyone annealed before sizing? Surely, this person was not referencing a spent primer in the casing caused the explosion he was referencing. I will purchase a salt bath kit and Lee Melting pot, still cheaper than the Annealeez and I don't have to purchase a different wheel kit for my different calibers.
Ha. I wouldn't place primers near heat 
Hope he's ok. I anneal with a spent primer in. I haven't had issues because the cases are dry. It doesn't make sense to me to anneal after resizing. Defeats the purpose in my mind, but that's just me. Decapping is another option
Hope he's ok. I anneal with a spent primer in. I haven't had issues because the cases are dry. It doesn't make sense to me to anneal after resizing. Defeats the purpose in my mind, but that's just me. Decapping is another option
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I have a Lee universal depriming tool that I use before annealing, so no resizing is done whatsoever. I think that it is also essential to have the primer out to prevent any gases from building up inside of the casing and also to let water into the case to help the annealing process when the casing is quenched in water. It's important to remember that the temperature of the salt is running 500 degrees centigrade (932F), don't want to have any chance/s for bubbles and getting splashed.
thwatson2
Well-Known Member
I anneal my straight wall after every shot (45-70 & 45-110), they don't get sized. all my bottle neck cartridges after 5 shots or so and always before neck sizing. I use clean play sand in lee pot. Setting around 9 which gets sand about 800 degrees. Push neck in sand for about 5 seconds or so, then into an empty pot. Works very well and doing a couple at a time your hands won't stop moving. Can do a lot of brass in a sitting. Very cheap and very efficient. No primer, and if brass gets hot where you are grabbing it, you annealed too long
