Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
A few reloading questions...
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Bang4theBuck" data-source="post: 1554760" data-attributes="member: 73596"><p>1. There are many things that can cause high pressure at low charges. Some related to your components, some related to your rifle. I don't spend a bunch of time on the low end of the spectrum, but you really need to fire form your brass to your chamber anyway, so you might as well work your way up, and learn what you can. </p><p>2. Swager removes factory primer crimp on cases that had that crimp. Primer pocket cleaner only cleans the pocket after you discharge. If you arent reloading cases that had crimped primers, you don't need a swager.</p><p>3. I don't know the answer but I opt for fast twist every time, so that I am not limited on bullets that I can shoot.</p><p>4. My opinion is that the sweet spot is to full length size every time, but only bump the shoulder back .001 to .002. This makes the most predictable ammo that you know will work in your chamber every time, without overworking your brass. I used to only neck size, but there was often issues. </p><p>5. I find Lapua to be the best. there are others that are possibly as good, but you can't argue with Lapua, If you anneal them often, you can easily get 10+ reloads out of them. One of the things that makes them the best is their volume consistency. Volume consistency will produce consistent velocities with consistent charge weights. Also, buy the small rifle primer brass, if available, as the primer pockets last longer and the ignition consistency is as good or better. </p><p>6. Don't have an answer and have not really run across this issue or anyone that has. </p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bang4theBuck, post: 1554760, member: 73596"] 1. There are many things that can cause high pressure at low charges. Some related to your components, some related to your rifle. I don't spend a bunch of time on the low end of the spectrum, but you really need to fire form your brass to your chamber anyway, so you might as well work your way up, and learn what you can. 2. Swager removes factory primer crimp on cases that had that crimp. Primer pocket cleaner only cleans the pocket after you discharge. If you arent reloading cases that had crimped primers, you don't need a swager. 3. I don't know the answer but I opt for fast twist every time, so that I am not limited on bullets that I can shoot. 4. My opinion is that the sweet spot is to full length size every time, but only bump the shoulder back .001 to .002. This makes the most predictable ammo that you know will work in your chamber every time, without overworking your brass. I used to only neck size, but there was often issues. 5. I find Lapua to be the best. there are others that are possibly as good, but you can't argue with Lapua, If you anneal them often, you can easily get 10+ reloads out of them. One of the things that makes them the best is their volume consistency. Volume consistency will produce consistent velocities with consistent charge weights. Also, buy the small rifle primer brass, if available, as the primer pockets last longer and the ignition consistency is as good or better. 6. Don't have an answer and have not really run across this issue or anyone that has. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
A few reloading questions...
Top