A few reloading questions...

[Inky Doc]

I am new to reloading and have some questions that I can't find answers to. When you reply I would greatly appreciate you numbering your responses as I did the questions. I have autism and things get very muddled when specificity is assumed. Naturally, if you only have one or two responses that would be very welcome too.

1- Why start hand loading with the lowest powder charge? It makes sense not to start at the top, but I fail to understand why you wouldn't start somewhere in between.

2- What is the difference between a primer pocket swager and primer pocket cleaner?

3- If fast twist rates are needed to stabilize heavier bullets, why are there slower twist rates? Does firing lighter bullets through faster twist rates shorten barrel life?

4- In one reloading manual I'm reading it states that full-length resizing isn't always necessary if the cartridge is being fired out of the same rifle and that neck-only resizing will do. Any explanations please?

5- I'm sure there are 50 different answers, but what brass manufacturers do you feel are better, brass last longer, etc.? If it matters, I will be reloading a .243 and 6.5CM.

Not really a reloading question but..

6- Is there any number associated with the rounds needed to wear out a firing pin?10,000? 50,000?

Thank you to all. I have learned a great deal from reading other threads on here. I truly appreciate the wisdom.

 

[Deputy819]

Hey there!

Response to Question#5

I also load for .243 and I only shoot Lapua brass for that cartridge. It's well worth the price paid for it. Look into getting some for your .243 and 6.5CM. You'll love the stuff!

 

[Fin-addictions]

1- Why start hand loading with the lowest powder charge? It makes sense not to start at the top, but I fail to understand why you wouldn't start somewhere in between.

I always start in-between, using a chronograph to check velocity against the published speeds. If you start to approach the speeds of max loads listed in manuals, you're also approaching max pressure. Often loads don't shoot best until they reach the higher pressure levels close to maximum, because that's where modern powders burn the most efficiently.

2- What is the difference between a primer pocket swager and primer pocket cleaner?

A primer pocket swagger is used to remove military crimps from the primer pocket. The cleaner is just that, a brush to clean the pocket.

3- If fast twist rates are needed to stabilize heavier bullets, why are there slower twist rates? Does firing lighter bullets through faster twist rates shorten barrel life?

A lot of our current cartridges were developed when bullets where shorter on average than they are today, so a lot of rifles were built with slower twists than more modern rifles. As projectiles have gotten longer, the need for faster twist rates to stabilize the longer projectiles is needed. Faster twist rates will generally not hurt accuracy of the shorter bullets, and has almost zero bearing on barrel life.

4- In one reloading manual I'm reading it states that full-length resizing isn't always necessary if the cartridge is being fired out of the same rifle and that neck-only resizing will do. Any explanations please?

When you fire a cartridge in a rifle, the brass case basically becomes a chamber cast of that rifles particular chamber. If you're using the brass in the same rifle, there's no need to push the brass back down to SAAMI spec, because its a perfect replica of your rifles chamber. All you need to do is make the neck small enough to hold the bullet with enough tension, hence the neck die. Be careful though, because a lot of the manufacturers neck dies do not support the case as they size, so the expander ball can easily pull your necks out of round, causing concentricity issues.

5- I'm sure there are 50 different answers, but what brass manufacturers do you feel are better, brass last longer, etc.? If it matters, I will be reloading a .243 and 6.5CM.

There's a lot of great brass out there, but Lapua, Norma and Alpha are some of the best currently. Although Nosler and Hornady are also making pretty good brass.

Not really a reloading question but..

6- Is there any number associated with the rounds needed to wear out a firing pin?10,000? 50,000?

I've never worn out a firing pin. A barrel or two yes, but I'm not sure a firing pin is going to get worn out...

Thank you to all. I have learned a great deal from reading other threads on here. I truly appreciate the wisdom.

 

[jimbires]

1 . I like to start at min powder charge , and find my best seating depth . then I add powder to get to my best grouping or velocity goal .
2. a primer pocket swager removes the crimp on the brass case from a crimped in primer . usually found in military ammo . a primer pocket cleaner cleans out the carbon in the pocket after the ammo is fired .
3. faster twist is necessary to stabilize longer bullets . a fast twist barrel can spin a short bullet fast enough the bullet will come apart . I believe in using a twist fast enough to stabilize the bullet , or a tad faster . don't go nuts by using the fastest twist available unless you are using bullets that need that much twist .
4. I neck size only for 2 or 3 cycles . this allows the brass to get fully expanded . then I set up my full length sizing die to bump the shoulder back about .002 " - .003 " it's been proven in bench rest that neck sizing only is not the most accurate .
5. I think it's hard to beat Lapua brass

 

[Inky Doc]

I guess my question about brass should be value based. Is the more expensive brass worth it in terms of value. I'm only shooting out to 500 and I'm sure accuracy plays a role.
Thank you again.

 

[BallisticsGuy]

I am new to reloading and have some questions that I can't find answers to. When you reply I would greatly appreciate you numbering your responses as I did the questions. I have autism and things get very muddled when specificity is assumed. Naturally, if you only have one or two responses that would be very welcome too.

1- Why start hand loading with the lowest powder charge? It makes sense not to start at the top, but I fail to understand why you wouldn't start somewhere in between.

2- What is the difference between a primer pocket swager and primer pocket cleaner?

3- If fast twist rates are needed to stabilize heavier bullets, why are there slower twist rates? Does firing lighter bullets through faster twist rates shorten barrel life?

4- In one reloading manual I'm reading it states that full-length resizing isn't always necessary if the cartridge is being fired out of the same rifle and that neck-only resizing will do. Any explanations please?

5- I'm sure there are 50 different answers, but what brass manufacturers do you feel are better, brass last longer, etc.? If it matters, I will be reloading a .243 and 6.5CM.

Not really a reloading question but..

6- Is there any number associated with the rounds needed to wear out a firing pin?10,000? 50,000?

Thank you to all. I have learned a great deal from reading other threads on here. I truly appreciate the wisdom.

1. Safety. I personally don't do that but I encourage new handloaders to. Until you have a couple decades of experience this is for your own safety.
2. Swaging is changing size. Cleaning is just removing carbon buildup that accumulates around the flash hole.
3. For lighter bullets. Over spinning light bullets can cause them to come apart just out of the muzzle and excessive spin will exacerbate poor grouping due to imperfections within the bullet itself.
4. Full length is best for non-bolt action guns which rely on less robust operating mechanisms. Small base full length (even tighter) is often recommended for semi-autos and I'd recommend them on any Browning semi-auto or lever action chambered for a bottle necked case (personal experience). Neck sizing only or neck sizing and bumping the shoulder back are options best left for bolt action guns. I neck size only as long as I can. Sizing the case works the brass. Working the brass hardens it. Hard brass cracks. So maximum case life comes from not working it so hard.
5. Lapua, Norma, Remington, Winchester, Hornady. For those two, nothing better than Lapua.
6. More than you'll likely fire in your lifetime. I have fired somewhere north of 2million rounds and never have ever worn out a firing pin before breaking one.

Enjoy.

 

[Rem7mm08]

I guess my question about brass should be value based. Is the more expensive brass worth it in terms of value. I'm only shooting out to 500 and I'm sure accuracy plays a role.
Thank you again.
Higher quality brass will usually pay off in consistency/uniformity (neck tension, case capacity, etc.) and number of loading cycles.

 

[alf]

1- Why start hand loading with the lowest powder charge? It makes sense not to start at the top, but I fail to understand why you wouldn't start somewhere in between.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...load-data-why-load-manuals-dont-always-agree/

 

[MachV]

1- Why start hand loading with the lowest powder charge? It makes sense not to start at the top, but I fail to understand why you wouldn't start somewhere in between.

Accuracy can be found where it is, you cant miss them fast enough. This is not a good place for a short cut

2- What is the difference between a primer pocket swager and primer pocket cleaner?

Simple enough, the swagger takes the military crimp out of brass...Not an issue with 243 and 6.5CM.
A cleaner will get the carbon out and even out seating depth.

3- If fast twist rates are needed to stabilize heavier bullets, why are there slower twist rates? Does firing lighter bullets through faster twist rates shorten barrel life?

Barrel life is a low factor result.
I have both(10 and 8 twist) for different uses
In the case of your 243 a 10 twist will generally shoot the 55-75s (great prairie dog round=inside 400 yards) faster and accurately without ripping them apart.
An 8 twist will fire the heavy long range bullets (good for those shots past 400) better but rip up the 55-75s

4- In one reloading manual I'm reading it states that full-length resizing isn't always necessary if the cartridge is being fired out of the same rifle and that neck-only resizing will do. Any explanations please?

Neck sizing will work for a few firings BUT after a few your going to have to set the shoulder back. The key is not mixing up brass that has different firings on it!

5- I'm sure there are 50 different answers, but what brass manufacturers do you feel are better, brass last longer, etc.? If it matters, I will be reloading a .243 and 6.5CM.

Lapua is very dependable and preferred.
Norma is consistent but soft.
Winchester is cheap and a good value!
Remington and Federal in my 243s the federal will lose primer pocket first, Remington will hold the most powder=till the neck splits.
Lake City is preferred for 223.

6- Is there any number associated with the rounds needed to wear out a firing pin?10,000? 50,000?

Have yet to wear out a firing pin BUT they can break at any time! though not common

 

[Bang4theBuck]

1. There are many things that can cause high pressure at low charges. Some related to your components, some related to your rifle. I don't spend a bunch of time on the low end of the spectrum, but you really need to fire form your brass to your chamber anyway, so you might as well work your way up, and learn what you can.
2. Swager removes factory primer crimp on cases that had that crimp. Primer pocket cleaner only cleans the pocket after you discharge. If you arent reloading cases that had crimped primers, you don't need a swager.
3. I don't know the answer but I opt for fast twist every time, so that I am not limited on bullets that I can shoot.
4. My opinion is that the sweet spot is to full length size every time, but only bump the shoulder back .001 to .002. This makes the most predictable ammo that you know will work in your chamber every time, without overworking your brass. I used to only neck size, but there was often issues.
5. I find Lapua to be the best. there are others that are possibly as good, but you can't argue with Lapua, If you anneal them often, you can easily get 10+ reloads out of them. One of the things that makes them the best is their volume consistency. Volume consistency will produce consistent velocities with consistent charge weights. Also, buy the small rifle primer brass, if available, as the primer pockets last longer and the ignition consistency is as good or better.
6. Don't have an answer and have not really run across this issue or anyone that has.

Good luck.

 

[jebel]

I agree with Fin-Addictions and would add the following to his answers:

4) Neck sizing alone, keeping the body in its custom chamber dimensions, leaves no room for error. That's likely fine if you're target shooting and can keep your cartridges clean and secure. Hunting can introduce dirt, moisture, etc. so people often full-length size to provide a tad bit of leeway, should the cases become soiled.
5) I would add ADG to the list. I haven't used them a great deal yet, but what I have seen has been excellent.