Got my hands on some 8mm RM brass . To make it 7STW is it as simple as lubing it and running it through a full length sizing die, or are there other steps ? Need a little advice from someone with experience . Thanks in advance.
ThanksYes, but if you have any anealer I would annealing first. But if you don't its not the end of the world.
agree with this ^^^^^Yes, but if you have an anealer I would anneal first. But if you don't its not the end of the world.
That's a huge difference. Like he's going from 8mm to 257 stw or from 7 to 257?Dad has a split rate that's off the charts.
But doesn't anneal.!?
He's going all the way down to 25STW though.
I think he uses 7STW brass, and goes to .257That's a huge difference. Like he's going from 8mm to 257 stw or from 7 to 257?
If you don't mind my asking, what barrel length are you guys running that cartridge with and what kind of velocities are you getting?I think he uses 7STW brass, and goes to .257
Bought him some Bertram but he hasn't used it yet.
I think we had this talk about case geometry awhile ago haha. I happen to like curvy and tall (talking about weatherby cases here…) but to each their ownHe maxed around 3900-3950? @ 26" with a 100gr best I recall. 28-30" would definitely be better. R25/Fed 215m
If I did anything of the sort it would be a 25 Mega.
Long is OUT. Short(er) is IN.
I'm afraid that's way out to lunch, not even the 30-378 weatherby has 137 grains h20 capacity. The 300 weatherby is right around 100, and the hornady cases I measured, when filled only to the shoulder neck junction, measure around 94-96 grains of water (not exact certainty)according to my reference books, volume of weatherby 300mag = 137gr H2O ; Winchester 300mag = 116gr H2O