What was the powder charge with the 143 and 8133 and what velocity were you getting?
I had trouble getting the 143 to shoot in one of mine which has a 8.7 tw Bart. Velocity was low and groups weren't great. Tried different seating depths and powders. Tried the same load in a different gun with an 8 tw Brux and more FB and they shot 1/4 MOA at 200. Not sure if the first gun just doesn't like the bullet, or if it was a stability, or FB issue, but maybe a 131 HH would work better in a factory chambered barrel?Has anyone tried the 143 gr Hammer Hunters with H-1000? (Finally found a couple of lb cans the other day) Steve suggested I start with 81 grs as a starting point. My gun is a factory Remington 700 S/S with quite a bit of engraving on it, came from Remington that way, with a muzzle brake. Love to shoot it. It shoots the Hornady 162 gr ELD X pretty respectfully.
I'm not sure, but I think my 700 has a 9 twist. I have not checked it, that's what various twist charts list. What's the best method to check it?I had trouble getting the 143 to shoot in one of mine which has a 8.7 tw Bart. Velocity was low and groups weren't great. Tried different seating depths and powders. Tried the same load in a different gun with an 8 tw Brux and more FB and they shot 1/4 MOA at 200. Not sure if the first gun just doesn't like the bullet, or if it was a stability, or FB issue, but maybe a 131 HH would work better in a factory chambered barrel?
I'm not sure, but I think my 700 has a 9 twist. I have not checked it, that's what various twist charts list. What's the best method to check it?
Thank You for the input.
Put a mark on your cleaning rod, push a patch through until the rod does a full rotation and then mark again, and measure the distance between the 2 marks. You might need to do it a few times to make sure you get the same number, sometimes it doesn't follow the rifling just rightI'm not sure, but I think my 700 has a 9 twist. I have not checked it, that's what various twist charts list. What's the best method to check it?
Thank You for the input.
You've done the work on the action , now you just need a new barrel.My rifle started life as a 7RM, I re-chambered it after doing the blueprinting and truing. It also has a 264WM barrel on the same action.
The standard twist for the 7RM is 9.25", so it's gonna be either a straight 9", even though I am yet to find any rifles offered in 7mm with that twist, all have a 9.25" twist in the literature I can find.
Cheers.
No, it's a switch barrel, as are most of my rifles. The beauty is that having a thick .250" pinned recoil lug, I can utilise the factory barrel if the threads need minimal work by adjusting the tenon length to suit the thickness of the lug.You've done the work on the action , now you just need a new barrel.
I assume you're 264WM is on a separate action , not some sort of switch barrel.
Haven't ran it in my 7 STW but did work up a load in my 300 PRC with 220 ELDx had all kinds of pressure issues. When it gets close to maximum 1/10th of a grain took it from no pressure signs to flattened primer and bulge at the base no early warning signsWhose running 8133 with 160 accubonds? I have the hodgdon update (which echos the load data on hodgdons website) but it seems pretty hot on the top end when I look at powders that I'm familiar with.
Where are you guys starting with this powder?