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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Specialty Handgun Hunting
460 smith&wesson
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 1703677" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Neck annealing a straightwall case is not for the inexperienced reloader and I don't recommend it unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing. My recommendation is to run the heavy crimped cases a maximum of 3 reloads and scrap them. Cases aren't that much outlay anyway and it's not like you will shoot them willy nilly anyway. No load building or jumping involved so you load them to SAMMI specs (powder of your choice), I use Lil Gun myself, seat the pill to the COAL crimp them and shoot them.</p><p></p><p>I've read many comments elsewhere with Lil Gun flame cutting the underside of the top strap but I've not had that occur in either the 460 or my 44RM. I believe flame cutting has everything to do with cylinder face to forcing cone clearance and mine are both tight (at the bottom end of factory clearance spec). The tighter the gap, the less impingement there is plus the cleaner the cylinder face stays. Of course setting the cylinder face to forcing cone gap does require a knowledge of gunsmithing so it's not something I'd recommend for the average shooter anyway. You can really screw up any revolver by cabbaging things up.</p><p></p><p>Salt bath is the only way to do it or a custom setup with a Geraud induction unit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 1703677, member: 39764"] Neck annealing a straightwall case is not for the inexperienced reloader and I don't recommend it unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing. My recommendation is to run the heavy crimped cases a maximum of 3 reloads and scrap them. Cases aren't that much outlay anyway and it's not like you will shoot them willy nilly anyway. No load building or jumping involved so you load them to SAMMI specs (powder of your choice), I use Lil Gun myself, seat the pill to the COAL crimp them and shoot them. I've read many comments elsewhere with Lil Gun flame cutting the underside of the top strap but I've not had that occur in either the 460 or my 44RM. I believe flame cutting has everything to do with cylinder face to forcing cone clearance and mine are both tight (at the bottom end of factory clearance spec). The tighter the gap, the less impingement there is plus the cleaner the cylinder face stays. Of course setting the cylinder face to forcing cone gap does require a knowledge of gunsmithing so it's not something I'd recommend for the average shooter anyway. You can really screw up any revolver by cabbaging things up. Salt bath is the only way to do it or a custom setup with a Geraud induction unit. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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460 smith&wesson
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