danj
Well-Known Member
What is a good priming tool for a 338 lapua . My rcbs universal is a bit too small . It works but a real pain to use . Thanks
338 lapua priming tool
- Thread starter danj
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
I've had decent luck with Frankford Arsenal
www.midwayusa.com
Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Perfect Seat Hand Priming Tool
The Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat Hand Primer will make sure you don’t over seat and crush a primer again. It features a dial that adjusts...
www.midwayusa.com
C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
Co-Ax Primer Seater Archives
Co-Ax® Primer Seater It’s fast, it’s easy, and it seats primers perfectly – all with a level of quality you won’t find anywhere else. Set the jaws for a particular caliber, load the tube, and you’re ready to seat primers into multiple cases of that caliber. Read More... Unique design allows the...
www.forsterproducts.com
Awesome!
CPS Priming System from Primal Rights!!!!!!!!!!
We have one and it works GREAT
Frankford arsenal works in my 338 Lapua
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
I have zero issues with mine priming 416 Rigby brass, even my 338-416 Rigby Improved brass go's in just fine.
I have brass here that is not chamfered at 45° like newer Rigby brass is and, it has a little extra effort getting it into the jaws, but nothing excessive.
I found lubing the underside of the jaws lightly helped.
Cheers.
Flintlock shooter
Well-Known Member
21st Century Shooting offers a very good one. Uses Lee shell holders and has a click adjustment for primer seating depth.
Kiwi Greg
Well-Known Member
I like the RCBS one that takes the shell holders, if you have a normal shell holder for a cartridge you can prime it
Shame it has a round tray rather than the square one of the universal priming tool
Other brand shell holders work but may need the hole countersinking on the underside a little more
Shame it has a round tray rather than the square one of the universal priming tool
Other brand shell holders work but may need the hole countersinking on the underside a little more
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
If you want the best priming tool, get the Primal Rights Competition Priming System.
I have one and it is extremely accurate for depth adjustment.
However, I do not use it for priming my 30-30 brass as there is no need for it.
I wish I still had my old RCBS hand priming tool with the shell holders, it could do ANY case as long as you had a shell holder.
I don't remember whom I gave that too anymore.
Cheers.
I have one and it is extremely accurate for depth adjustment.
However, I do not use it for priming my 30-30 brass as there is no need for it.
I wish I still had my old RCBS hand priming tool with the shell holders, it could do ANY case as long as you had a shell holder.
I don't remember whom I gave that too anymore.
Cheers.
WildernessBob
Member
I never realized people had a depth problem with their primers. I use a RL 550C Dillon and load only 3 calibers -45 acp, 30-06 and 270 win.
Never had a depth problem with the primers but if you do.... The Frankford arsenal primer sounds like solution to the problem.
Never had a depth problem with the primers but if you do.... The Frankford arsenal primer sounds like solution to the problem.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
I used an RCBS for my 338LM without issues, but it was a chore to prime and my hands just weren't up to doing a lot of volume. To fix that.... my CPS landed on the doorstep this morning!
It's a pretty fine detail so I would say that it's only really tunable after several other processes (seating depth, neck fit, brass prep, charge weight, etc) have been made so consistent that a change in primer seating is detectable on paper or the chrono. If the charge weight is varying by +/-0.2gn on every drop, then the consistency or tuning of primer seating is going to be lost in the noise of 20+fps SDs from the charge. If you're running consistent single-digit SD this it's something that will show up like this guy did:
www.reloadingallday.com
I'm working very hard to get to the point where everything else is good enough that I can tune primers. I set a series of goals for my loading: sub-10 SD from 10 shot string, sub 10-SD from a 20-shot string, then SD of ~5 from 20 shots. Maybe one day I'll get a 36-shot 5.5 SD. The first step was actually pretty easy, only took upgrading brass and my scale and got there with a factory rifle. I'm probably already hitting the second goal, but I haven't shot a 20+ round string since my last set of changes to be sure. Too busy making my hunting ammo for this year currently. I'm thinking the third goal is going to be a bit tougher to get to, but I'm adding annealing, primer seating, and a non-factory chamber to the mix to get there.
precisionrifleblog.com
Not a problem so much as improving fit and consistency. As with so many things in loading it's something that makes an impact on a load, so the basic strategy is to maximize consistency to reduce the amount of variance it adds to a load, then (once appropriate) tune it.
It's a pretty fine detail so I would say that it's only really tunable after several other processes (seating depth, neck fit, brass prep, charge weight, etc) have been made so consistent that a change in primer seating is detectable on paper or the chrono. If the charge weight is varying by +/-0.2gn on every drop, then the consistency or tuning of primer seating is going to be lost in the noise of 20+fps SDs from the charge. If you're running consistent single-digit SD this it's something that will show up like this guy did:
Does Primer Seating Depth Matter?
For the longest time, seating depth on primers and especially primer pocket uniforming, has been discredit by almost all of the shooting community. Unfortunately, this tedious method has been pushed off by many individuals. Well, I decided to give it a shot despite what everyone has been saying...
www.reloadingallday.com
I'm working very hard to get to the point where everything else is good enough that I can tune primers. I set a series of goals for my loading: sub-10 SD from 10 shot string, sub 10-SD from a 20-shot string, then SD of ~5 from 20 shots. Maybe one day I'll get a 36-shot 5.5 SD. The first step was actually pretty easy, only took upgrading brass and my scale and got there with a factory rifle. I'm probably already hitting the second goal, but I haven't shot a 20+ round string since my last set of changes to be sure. Too busy making my hunting ammo for this year currently. I'm thinking the third goal is going to be a bit tougher to get to, but I'm adding annealing, primer seating, and a non-factory chamber to the mix to get there.
Muzzle Velocity Stats – Statistics for Shooters Part 2
Consistent muzzle velocity is key for long-range shooting, otherwise, bullets that leave the muzzle...
Last edited:
