31.5” draw length bow?

[Mt rummy]

Now that's funny. Not knocking or raising any brand, but it's my understanding the solo cam is a little harder to paper tune.

One other interesting fact is there are only a handful of bow engineers and they are shared as I was told.

 

[Clay Target Guy]

I have a 32 inch draw and I had a hard time finding something that did not look like a crossbow with the stock removed.
I bought a Bowtech Reign 7 as the Reign 6 does not go to that long of a draw. I also have a PSE Preform X for target but they also make a Preform X3D that is shorter axle to axle. I prefer to have longer axle to axle due to sting angle.
Hoyt also makes a XXL bow

 

[iowaelkbum]

I have a creedmore LOL. Darton actually holds most of the patents in the Archery world.

 

[5.56×250]

Seriously, I dont know what Mathews has these days. I stepped down as the bow guru in my area in 2010 . But.....for 14 yrs I sold Mathews, Hoyt, Bowtech, PSE, Bear, Darton, and Elite bows . The store I worked for was one of the first shops to sell Mathews in 1994, if memory serves. As someone who dealt with Mathews bows and knew many of their shooter staff and even shot for them for 1 year, they were very much better at marketing than designing bows. I see they have finally wised up and started selling something similar to a binary cam system . At least they are learning now instead of trying to brainwash everyone into buying into an inferior cam system.
If I were to buy a bow now (cant shoot anymore / neck is fried from shooting bows too much for years) I would look at Bowtech or Elite . At your draw length, I would shoot for something over 35" , and probably 37 or 38" to get the string angle a little more forgiving . I would also look at some of the new stuff from PSE. They were starting to get some interesting design ideas working when I left the business . Try to find the most reputable shop in your area, even if it means traveling a little farther . It's worth every extra mile to have the draw length measured and set, rest, loop, peep height, proper arrow spine set up properly. I was blessed to have loyal customers from 6 states take the time and expense to travel to get there stuff worked on by me. Your first bow can make you a shooter for life, or make you quit before you even start good. Take time to do it right.

 

[5.56×250]

I have a creedmore LOL. Darton actually holds most of the patents in the Archery world.

And Darton is who I shot for most of the years I competed. The CPS system was the first near fail proof system to hold a bow string.

 

[5.56×250]

Now that's funny. Not knocking or raising any brand, but it's my understanding the solo cam is a little harder to paper tune.

One other interesting fact is there are only a handful of bow engineers and they are shared as I was told.

Cable stretch will wreck the tune on a single cam . Have to mark the cam and watch it like a hawk to know it moved. Unless it stretches a ton, you cant really tell in the draw cycle , but the nock point will move up and change everything.

 

[iowaelkbum]

@5.56 Great advise and sharing of knowledge.

 

[Tikkamike]

I have a 31.5" draw also and bought a Bowtech BT-X 31 I love it.

 

[5.56×250]

It's my

@5.56 Great advise and sharing of knowledge.

It's my pleasure. Dont have a chance to talk shop much these days. I lived it for a long time. Worked at the shop, built bow strings, competed every weekend locally, and drove to some national competition event once or twice a month, and shot a 20 target round on a 3D target in the yard almost every morning before work. The target and comp stuff was just in the spring and summer. I archery only hunted for 25 yrs too. You could say I lived it, lol.

 

[JJMoody]

Glad to see I'm not alone on the draw length issue. I've had guys look at me cross-eyed before when I said 31.5". I got measured three times because " guys who knew", said not possible. (it's been a while and Im no longer around those folks). I've been wanting to get into archery for a while now and this gives me a pretty good direction to start.

 

[iowaelkbum]

Being "measured" is only a starting point. Your final draw length is a combination of feel, performance, and physical form. At the high end of archery 1/4" in drawlength is noticed by top shooters. Pictures of you actually shooting the chosen bow would allow some of us to critique your form for a better fit.

 

[5.56×250]

Yea, it's your arms AND your chest width that will dictate your draw length. I alway recommrnded shooting with a natural bend in your bow arm. Everyone had a natural bend when their arm is relaxed . Let your arm just dangle to your side and you will see what I'm talking about. Try to mimic that bend when you hold your bow at fulldraw. The more relaxed your bow arm is, the steadier your likely to be. That bend will normally shorten your draw length 1/2" or more , but will pay dividends in how steady your aim is.

 

[5.56×250]

I alway recommend a low wrist grip too. Shooting with the bones at the end of your forearm taking the brunt of the load with a relaxed palm and fingers will keep you from fatiguing the muscle in the back of your forearm when out shooting. Any change in your grip will change your point of impact, so the less muscles you have involved, the less likely you are to pull shots when your tired.

 

[460 magnum]

Go to every shop you can find and shoot every bow in that place serval time until you are tired of pulling them back. This will tell you what bow is the one for you.