308 Lapua Palma brass question

Old Rooster

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I still have 6 Lapua cases that were given to me a long time ago.The flash holes have been drilled out to the large flash hole dimensions.
My brand new Lapua Palma brass with the small flash hole just came in and my question is does anyone else drill out the flash holes?
I used to use a universal Lee de-priming die as it can be dirty and no problem but not so with my Redding Bushing type S die.
What methods or dies do you folks use?
 
There are those who firmly believe the smaller flash holes give better consistency in small to medium case sizes. 6 PPC, for instance (holds all world records for group) in benchrest - and 6.5 CM and 308.
 
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GLTaylor I thought the same and I have a Lee universale-capper for dirty range brass as well as my dirty brass so I wrote Lee and asked for a small de-capping pin and this is the response:

"We do not produce a smaller diameter pin for decapping undersized flash holes.
The decapping pin on the expander rod of the die is .062" in diameter, which is the standard flash hole diameter of most ammunition cases made both in the United States and foreign countries.The undersized flash hole should be enlarged with one of the commercial flash hole uniformers. Or use a 1/16 (1.6mm) drill. Uniform flash holes are helpful to uniform ignition.

If you choose to retain the undersized flash hole in your cases, you can put your decapping/expander rod in a drill and polish down the diameter of the pin using a fine grit emery paper. This will weaken the pin and you may find that it will break when you decap fired cases."

Thank You,

Laine
Customer Service

Lee Precision, Inc.
4275 County Road U
Hartford, WI 53027
Phone (262) 673-3075
That was Lee's answer to a problem so since I have a redding die I can use the small decapping pin and use my Redding Die its just that the redding die will get scratched and worn decapping primers.
I used to use it that way but had to send it back to Redding so they could polish the scratches out and have perfect brass with no scratches.
Any other thoughts?
 
You might clean your brass before depriming? I don't pick up range brass for personal use - too dirty/gritty. I also have primarily Redding type-S dies, along with a few customs. You can get regular or small pin dies. Get spares for the small and go easy. They Are easier to bend.
I'm surprised you are able to pick up small primer brass. Most that use them are very particular?
I've made my own deprimers to use with a Wilson arbor press neck die. Just get a small rod and drill it out to accept the small pin
 
Thats the only answer I can come up with too GLTaylor.
After being cleaned the old residue should all be gone.Thanks sir and I can then clean my flasholes after that,
I got these to keep the small flash hole for the reasons others have mentioned,longer lasting brass and lower es some say better accuracy and others say normal accuracy but all say they last longer.Thats whay I got them.
On the few I was given I had hangfires on all 6 when temps were -10 at the bottom of the area I had planned to walk and close to 22 below zero where I was hunting.Not an elk but at least a mule deer walked out a couple hundred yards and when I pulled the trigger the shell did not shoot I ejected that round and the next shot didnt go off either all shells were a dud with a light primer strike.
The next day at a lower altitude I took a nice deer that had been hit by a car,the game warden looked at my license and let me take it and the shot went off just fine,warmer temps and not 2 feet of snow.
What is a better temp stable powder for cold weather?
Thanks for the help brothers.
Old Rooster
 
Another thing GLTaylor is that the decapping pins on the lee is thick at the top where it's secured and smaller at the end for de-capping the used primer so other small pins will not fit it.I will have to use my Redding die after a through cleaning of the brass.
Is there a better temp stable powder than Varget?I also use Shooters World as a substitute for varget but would not ignite either.
Not sure of the temps as I did not have a thermometer but it was cold,and the primer pockets were drilled out so most any powder should have touched off.
 
I don't have it handy, but there is a chart showing the temp sensitivity of powders. Some are a bit better than others. Google temperature sensitivity of powders.
That will give you an idea of a better powder for your application. My concerns are usually the other direction. Here, high temp can cause pressure spikes. A load developed at 50 degrees may be too hot at 90+!
Good luck+
 
I don't have it handy, but there is a chart showing the temp sensitivity of powders. Some are a bit better than others. Google temperature sensitivity of powders.
That will give you an idea of a better powder for your application. My concerns are usually the other direction. Here, high temp can cause pressure spikes. A load developed at 50 degrees may be too hot at 90+!
Good luck+
This is something I use.
 

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The charts you sent were relative burn rates (speeds) of powders. That's useful and I also use it. There is another chart that shows temp effects and velocity loss due to ambient temperature.
If you were having hang fires, you may need to go to a magnum primer for hunting in very cold temps. Just beware of shooting in elevated temps. You would have to work up new loads for the magnum primers. They will generate higher pressure in warmer temps.
 
Thats exactly what my friend said and the real light primer strikes could have been caused by snow or some other debris in my action because I always get a good primer strike.
Now if primers magicly came back on the market I could try some small rifle magnum primers
Old Rooster
 
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