303 British Resizing Procedure Question

[epags]

I think I answered my question: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...+back+a+rifle+cartridge+shoulder&&FORM=VDVVXX

 

[LRhunter514]

I would like to add one comment on the .303, If your rifle has its original military bbl the chamber is very large. I would keep a eye on the brass size in front of the rim.

 

[amyjune]

I made it easy, I bought a SMLE manufactured in .308 at the Ishapore Armory in 1952

 

[bullet man]

Don't listen to your friend keep doing what your all ready doing and you will always have ammo that will work every time. If you want some thing more accurate just buy surplus ammo pull the bullets and sell to me and buy sierras lol

 

[Dean2]

The 303 British was built as a battle rifle and it is an expetionally competent gun for that. Accurate to 800 yards, good knock down power, high rate of fire and tremendously reliable. They are still in wide use here in Canada as a hunting rifle and the Northern rangers only switched from the 303 Lee Enfield to a new rifle last summer.. They were intentionally made with sloppy chambers so they would still feed and fire when dirty and accommodate ammo made in many different places, some like Indian production, was not really close to being in spec all the time. The British never thought about reloading fired brass. It was a one time consumable from their point of view.

If you measure new unfired and then fired brass you will see that it stretchs a lot on the first firing. Squeezing that brass back down to its original size means you are working the brass far more than you need to and brass life is going to suffer as a result. We have never done more than neck size 9/10s of the neck with a Lee Collet die or a true neck die. Even after 10 firings I have not needed to "Bump" the neck for them to chamber nicely. If you ever do get to that stage, just turn the neck die down till you can measure .002 of bump. (Lee Collet dies won't bump the neck). Usually happens about the 15th loading.

Best of luck and enjoy a great old rifle.

 

[ofbandg]

I have owned and loaded for a number of both Lee Enfields and regular Enfields (p14's). Neck sizing is preferable for accuracy but when using the Lee's it is important to know that their actions have considerable flex and stretching is a problem if you try to get too much velocity out of them. I have seen complete head separations with only a few firings and that is dangerous because venting isn't the best. The p14's can handle more pressure but if you have both like I did don't interchange the ammo. The loading books make the loads look anemic and premium bullets are difficult to find but they still manage to kill a lot of animals. It's not a round that will punish you either.

 

[Black Hat]

I wouldn't put a FL die anywhere near it, just use a neck die, and make sure you run an oring on the case just in front of the rim to keep it against the bolt face, the cases will grow around 100 thou! otherwise case head separation will likely occur around the third firing.

Then the case will be headspacing off the shoulder not the rim.

The chambers are cut with plenty of room to allow going into battery with mud, dirt and sand on the cartridges, and that's why you can't just load the projectile long into the lands to keep the case against the bolt, as when the firing pin strikes it pushes the case forward, when the powder ignites it forces the case to grab the chamber and stretches the case head/rim back against the bolt face.

I would also toss the brass after 5 firings, which is before the case will grow tight in the chamber.

Make sure you use the oring method on new cases, and start a fresh batch, old once fired cases will already have stretching occurring in the area where the head meets the case wall, you can cut an old case lengthways to confirm.

I also only neck size 3/4 of the neck to allow the unsized part of the neck to centre the case in the chamber, I'll upload some photos.

I've done plenty of reloading for the .303 for competition and this is the routine I came up with that gives best accuracy, case life and safety.

 

[baggy270]

Today I was shooting my (one and only) 303 British Enfield and a 'knowledgeable' shooter commented to me that since the 303 British head spaces on the rim, and not the shoulder, in order to extend the life of the brass, I should only be bumping the shoulder back a couple of thousands rather than full length resize.
If his comment is correct, what tools & steps do I need to:
1) de-prime the brass w/o full length re-sizing the brass
2) bump the shoulder back a specific amount. (However, is bumping necessary if I do step 3?)
3) size the neck? (Lee Precision Collet / Neck Sizer / Sizing Die < .303 BRITISH > # 91021)?
Presently I am using a RCBS de-priming/full length sizer die and a RCBS seating die. I have a Forester trimming tool, a Lee Factory Crimping die, a couple of micrometers and Hornday's Lock and Load systemsView attachment 283807View attachment 283808.

You need a LEE neck sizing die

 

[SSgt G Cody]

Once you are close to perfect, Back die out 1/4 turn. Then, with a different case each time, turn die "IN" 1/16 turn and resize case until you can insert it into chamber and easily close the bolt! This shows correct adjustment! You should now be within .002 in. of ideal! Resize several cases, then re-try fit again! If bolt closes easily, you should be at your ideal position! Lock it down, re-check, and if bolt feels correct, you are ready to resize all your cases. If NOT, you may need a very tiny adjustment in or out, then Nirvana!. You should now have your .002 in. shoulder clearance!