300wm rechambering to????

[spdcrazy]

My barrel is decent but factory, without a brake, and 22in long.



I'm very new to this therefore I have no dies, nor have a been reloading. Got a good friend that's gonna b working with me on some loads. Either 300wm or something else

 

[D.ID]

With a the short barrel and only decent accuracy, I would rebarrel for long range. Velocity is temporary but ballistic coefficient is eternal...... as it determines drop and drift. Nothing is flat shooting at long ranges, every thing is a rainbow trajectory once you get out there. Consistency is as always the key. Flaws in the system are compounded at range. 7mm=180grain, 30 cal=210-240grain,338=300grain...... I would stick with 300wm or 7wsm or jump all the way to the 338 rum or edge. Ultra mag brass costs the same (allot) no matter how big a pill you shove in the top of it. If you go that far you might as well have the extra thump when you get there.

 

[Bart B]

Would like something heavier fluted and with a good brake as well

Why a fluted barrel?

The do nothing as far as accuracy is concerned. And done incorrectly I guarantee they'll reduce the accuracy of the barrel.

But they do allow the barrel maker to increase his wages.

 

[rscott5028]

My barrel is decent but factory, without a brake, and 22in long.



I'm very new to this therefore I have no dies, nor have a been reloading. Got a good friend that's gonna b working with me on some loads. Either 300wm or something else

Well then, welcome aboard.

Be advised that this hobby is addictive and expensive.

I would suggest that you do your homework and buy good quality (not necessarily the most expensive) stuff the first time around.

And, budget plenty for the actual shooting part which will require you to handload for best long range accuracy.

-- richard

 

[spdcrazy]

Thanks Richard. Research and good quality equiptment my goal.

Reason I was thinking flute is so it doesn't way as much as my truck! But I also didn't think of the accuracy dropping if done wrong.

 

[rscott5028]

Thanks Richard. Research and good quality equiptment my goal.

Reason I was thinking flute is so it doesn't way as much as my truck! But I also didn't think of the accuracy dropping if done wrong.

I only have one fluted barrel for which I had the mfg (Bartlein) do the fluting after I had already shot it.

Even though I asked them to be as aggressive as possible (heavy barrel and small caliber 6br) I can't much tell that it reduced any weight. ...but, it looks really sharp and is still very accurate.

Good barrels are stress relived by the mfg. An improper fluting job can reduce accuracy. I don't think it does much for cooling or weight reduction unless you're splitting hairs.

-- richard

 

[spdcrazy]

thats good to know, is it better to have it fluted after i shot a box or so out of it?

i plan to have my local gunsmith build my barrell. he has build several 1k comp rifles.

i'd like to be accurate and confident at 800+

from what i've read, and researched thanks to you guys, i'll stick with 300wm, and prob look into a 26-28in barrell with a good brake as well... agreed?

 

[rscott5028]

thats good to know, is it better to have it fluted after i shot a box or so out of it?

i plan to have my local gunsmith build my barrell. he has build several 1k comp rifles.

i'd like to be accurate and confident at 800+

from what i've read, and researched thanks to you guys, i'll stick with 300wm, and prob look into a 26-28in barrell with a good brake as well... agreed?

Fluting would normally be done before hand.

In my case, it was an afterthought.

-- richard

 

[spdcrazy]

thats good to know, i'm not stuck on fluting the barrell, but i do like the look and if it would help lighten it more than what has been mentioned, i'd def be looking into it.

but its cheaper and less likely to mess with the accuracy if i do not, so i think i'll be going that way!