300PRC Reloading Advice

I have had clearer results 500 or over. But you could try. I would not try below 300.
 
7828ssc wasn't listed, but then again I don't have this cartridge. Going by Berger's data ql was 10fps faster, so close enough and under max pressure also (still don't trust ql enough). 7828ssc was within 25fps of 570 if that's any help?
 
300 yards will work much better than 100.

5-6 rounds per powder at one grain increases will give you good info.

I would start with h1000, n570, rl26... and only try the rest of the powders if this 3 don't give you good results.

Let us know what those ladders look like.
 
Screw all of that. The 205 is easy to get to shoot well. Seat it 20 thous off and use H1000. Work up in 0.8 gr so you can split the diff at 0.4 gr when you hone in on node. Shoot 3 shot groups at 100, OCW but not round robin. Don't break position and load from the mag. Don't break position.

Note POI with more preference in vertical and find node. Good luck though because I just shot this combo across 6 grains of powder under 0.5".

IF you are an accomplished shooter and get a very calm and low mirage day then you can try a ladder at 500 yards. Preferably 2-3 times. This worked excellent also with my 300 NM.

Haven't tested R26 but is also a favorite of mine, kinda saving it for 7 PRC though.
 
I've had great results with most of those powders you list. In order my favorite for it N570, N565, H1000, RL26. RL26 generally is my last choice cause of the temp sensitivity of it. A lot of people don't like the VV powders cause of the throat erosion and it is real for sure. But man you push that powder and it does some amazing things at 1000 yards +. Don't worry about the ES so much and shoot further, like 600 yards minimum and watch your vertical dispersions between shots. Find a couple close then repeat the shots.
 
If the gun is a shooter then any of the r 26, h1000, n570 or n568 will shoot. The 300 prc with 205 , 215, or 230 Berger's all should shoot outstanding. with That I did have a custom reamer with 200th freebore. Less jump then sammi..
H1000, rl26 shot good but n570 just out shot them at 500 yards and the node on n570 was very large. Be honest I didn't play a lot with r26. Maybe I should have.
i Landed on n570 with cci250 with 82.7 gr running 2950. Absolutely no pressure signs. ES was 20 with a SD of 8.5 over a 12 shot group. The point of impact never change from 81.7 to 82.7 at 100 yard and you could literally put all them in the same hole.
When I started loading the 300 prc there was very little prc data out there. I started low and worked my way up on the powders. i used the 300wm and 300 WB
as a reference and started low and went forward. looking at now published data on n570 for the 300 prc I'm above there recommend charge. But different barrels, lawyer data, etc….. the listing in my opinion is Under cut.
I'd pick a couple powders, start low and load up and check your nodes and pressure signs. look For the biggest one and is the most accurate at distance.
h1000 will give you a little better barrel life but I'm using it as a strictly hunting gun not a tinker gun. If I was banging steel I'd probably play with the h1000 more to see if I could get it to group like the n570
 
If the gun is a shooter then any of the r 26, h1000, n570 or n568 will shoot. The 300 prc with 205 , 215, or 230 Berger's all should shoot outstanding. with That I did have a custom reamer with 200th freebore. Less jump then sammi..
H1000, rl26 shot good but n570 just out shot them at 500 yards and the node on n570 was very large. Be honest I didn't play a lot with r26. Maybe I should have.
i Landed on n570 with cci250 with 82.7 gr running 2950. Absolutely no pressure signs. ES was 20 with a SD of 8.5 over a 12 shot group. The point of impact never change from 81.7 to 82.7 at 100 yard and you could literally put all them in the same hole.
When I started loading the 300 prc there was very little prc data out there. I started low and worked my way up on the powders. i used the 300wm and 300 WB
as a reference and started low and went forward. looking at now published data on n570 for the 300 prc I'm above there recommend charge. But different barrels, lawyer data, etc….. the listing in my opinion is Under cut.
I'd pick a couple powders, start low and load up and check your nodes and pressure signs. look For the biggest one and is the most accurate at distance.
h1000 will give you a little better barrel life but I'm using it as a strictly hunting gun not a tinker gun. If I was banging steel I'd probably play with the h1000 more to see if I could get it to group like the n570
I've had great results with most of those powders you list. In order my favorite for it N570, N565, H1000, RL26. RL26 generally is my last choice cause of the temp sensitivity of it. A lot of people don't like the VV powders cause of the throat erosion and it is real for sure. But man you push that powder and it does some amazing things at 1000 yards +. Don't worry about the ES so much and shoot further, like 600 yards minimum and watch your vertical dispersions between shots. Find a couple close then repeat the shots.
What powder grain change per shot would you recommend? And then if you find a node, how do you confirm it?
 
Dang that's gonna take all day. Can't say all that much other than RL26 is the only power I tried and it shoots really well for me in 300 PRC.
 
What powder grain change per shot would you recommend? And then if you find a node, how do you confirm it?
Recommend with which one, H1000? If H1000 I would work up a ladder out at at least 600 yards starting at 75 grains and go .5 grains after that. I suspect, not knowing your chamber or FB, that you will pressure out by 78 grains. I'd load 2 of each charge and go to the range and shoot and see where your least dispersion is. You don't have to take a chrono graph. It's like the OCW you really are just looking for pressure and the vertical dispersion. If your gung ho about it load up 3 of each if you have the components. Then fire cold bore shots down range and record your data. If you have a chrono then take it. It just adds to your data you're getting. After you find what is working for ya then work on your seating depth to close in the horizontal size of the group. Then you can tweak that at any range you want. Any of those powders will work pretty much. I haven't found a rifle yet that didn't like them. Not sure why so many find it hard to load for. I think it's very easy to load for actually.
 
I've had great results with most of those powders you list. In order my favorite for it N570, N565, H1000, RL26. RL26 generally is my last choice cause of the temp sensitivity of it. A lot of people don't like the VV powders cause of the throat erosion and it is real for sure. But man you push that powder and it does some amazing things at 1000 yards +. Don't worry about the ES so much and shoot further, like 600 yards minimum and watch your vertical dispersions between shots. Find a couple close then repeat the shots.
why 565 over 568?
 
If the gun is a shooter then any of the r 26, h1000, n570 or n568 will shoot. The 300 prc with 205 , 215, or 230 Berger's all should shoot outstanding. with That I did have a custom reamer with 200th freebore. Less jump then sammi..
H1000, rl26 shot good but n570 just out shot them at 500 yards and the node on n570 was very large. Be honest I didn't play a lot with r26. Maybe I should have.
i Landed on n570 with cci250 with 82.7 gr running 2950. Absolutely no pressure signs. ES was 20 with a SD of 8.5 over a 12 shot group. The point of impact never change from 81.7 to 82.7 at 100 yard and you could literally put all them in the same hole.
When I started loading the 300 prc there was very little prc data out there. I started low and worked my way up on the powders. i used the 300wm and 300 WB
as a reference and started low and went forward. looking at now published data on n570 for the 300 prc I'm above there recommend charge. But different barrels, lawyer data, etc….. the listing in my opinion is Under cut.
I'd pick a couple powders, start low and load up and check your nodes and pressure signs. look For the biggest one and is the most accurate at distance.
h1000 will give you a little better barrel life but I'm using it as a strictly hunting gun not a tinker gun. If I was banging steel I'd probably play with the h1000 more to see if I could get it to group like the n570
why 568 over 565
 
Top